Thanks guys for all the recommendations. I'll look into both and see what I can do!
I did a little more digging on my rear-end clunk and I found the culprit.
I checked the lower shock bolts on the rear and both were torqued down. The upper bolts may be too tight though....the shocks had no instructions with them, and there are none on Icon's website for this product. When I installed them I tightened the upper nut down until it was tight and there is about 1/2" of stem thread showing. Apparently on other rear Icon shocks they recommend to tighten the nut down until it is level with the top of the stem, otherwise you will get premature bushing wear. Oops.....I'll probably have to order new bushings and do it right eventually, but that's not where the clunk is coming from anyways.
I was able to recreate the sound with a specific bounce in the bed, so I had a second person do that while I crawled underneath.
Tons of play in that lower shock mount on both sides. So the big question is 'why'?? The shocks were new, only have between 10-15K miles on them at most. Surely the spherical bearings can't be worn out already. The bed is almost always unloaded and it's not like I wheel every weekend. Is the stock bolt too small in diameter??
if the bolt diameter is smaller than what the spherical bearing accepts, good idea to inspect the bolt for any signs of fatigue.
For reference, the spherical bearings on my Kings are snug fit with minimal/no play. It slides right over the pin in my Sequoia.
You're right, it is the bolt diameter. I pulled one of them last night to see and it's obvious that the bolt is too small. It looks like someone in the past changed the rear shocks and used non-OEM bolts.
Definitely some damage to the bolt. This thing was a bear to get out....I didn't use anti-seize when I put these in a couple years ago, but I've since learned my lesson. The bolt is a couple millimeters smaller in diameter to the mounting hole. I didn't pull the shock to measure the inside diameter of the mount though.
Am I good to just find some grade 8 or 10 bolts that are the right diameter and use those in place of OEM? Is it a problem if there are threads where the shock mounts to it?
Truck is getting aligned today so I slapped this bolt back in and will have to change it later.
IIRC, the OEM bolts are class 11. A similar sized grade 8 bolt will have a lower proof/tensile threshold. Couldn't say if that difference makes a difference.
Best the check the bracket for any signs of an enlarged hole. May need an oversized bolt to compensate, but you're limited to what the spherical bearing can accept.
Thanks! I'm a rookie at this.Class 11 is a metric standard for bolts (vs. Grade for Imperial.)
I know, right??I wish more fixes could be like that!
I'm glad you mentioned this. Here are my thoughts between the two:Having run both duratracs and ko2s in the snow which do you like better?