2007 KLX-250S Lightweight ADV/DS


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With the sale of my XT350, I decided to start the search for a replacement dual sport. As I've owned a few dual sports, I felt that I had the list narrowed down to what I was looking for in a bike. Reliable, low maintenance, adequate power (able to cruise 65mph), aftermarket support, etc. A veritable swiss army knife, if you will. On the top of my requirements were also: E-start (knee issues), 6 speed, and sub 300lb weight.

Luckily, a bike popped up locally that would prove to be a fantastic starting point. This 2007 KLX-250S just had a BB351 kit installed, along with a full Barker exhaust system and TM33/34 pumper carb. With the power taken care of, it would allow me to dig into the more utilitarian modifications. Stay tuned!



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First things first, none of us want a good adventure come to a premature end. Off road riding is fraught with all sorts of debris and opportunities to inflict damage to the motorcycle.

To that effect, I decided to fit a set of radiator guards/braces to help protect them in the event of a wreck or debris puncturing them. These Unabiker guards were quite well built, so I opted to install them on my KLX.


The guards also have support rods across the face to help prevent crushing.


I'd say they're well protected now!



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To better protect the underside of the KLX, specifically the water pump and lower radiator hoses, I went with a Richochet skid plate.


The integrated wings will do a great job of deflecting, and the ability to change the oil is not hampered with the provided drain hole!



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Next, was cleaning up the back of bike and reducing some weight. I'm not overly fond of the factory rear fender, as I prefer a more MX style look.

A KLX300R fender will fit with a bit of trimming where the fender sits under the seat.


Next, the subframe was shortened to keep it all neatly tucked under the KLX300R plastics.


I believe this simple mod greatly improves the lines of the bike, and the bit of weight loss is always a benefit. Less overhang will also protect the bike better in the event I loop it.


While I was in there, a lithium battery helped shed a couple more pounds.


An edge light kit with license plate mount fit nicely under the fender.

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The factory handlebars are known to bend like a wet spaghetti noodle in a crash, and I wasn't overly fond of the height/angle.

I went with a set of CR sweep High bars from Protaper along with a set of 30mm risers.


For navigation purposes, a RAM mount was utilized along with a dual USB quick charger.


Then a set of Bike Master Heated grips rounded out the cockpit. I've had great luck with these, and they get downright hot on high! There's nothing worse than frozen digits while riding.



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One of my favorite little farkles is the Nemo 2 chain oiler. It's a positive displacement pump that dispenses oil when you rotate the main unit on the handlebar. A quarter turn will lightly oil the entire chain, with minimal splatter.

I use synthetic 75w-90 gear oil as the lubricant. It's cheap, doesn't attract dirt, and doesn't swell chain o rings.


On my street bikes I'll run the oil line to the rear sprocket as per the instructions, but on anything off road based I tend to install it on the countershaft sprocket. This keeps the oil line out of harms way.



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The problematic automatic cam chain tensioner was ditched in favor of the Kreiger manual chain tensioner.



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The factory cooling system on the KLX250S is very effective at shedding the heat from the modest power output, almost too effectively. Kawasaki's blunder, in my opinion, was a lack of a thermostat bypass loop. A thermostat bypass loop serves to maintain coolant flow in the engine against a stuck thermostat, thus equalizing the temperature throughout. Without this loop we have a lot of thermal shock as: the thermostat opens, cold coolant is dumped into the cylinder, and the thermostat slams shut.

Enter the ThermoBob. This clever little kit spaces the thermostat out, allowing a bypass loop to be installed behind it.


Then, a hose runs across to a custom made T adapter thus creating our aforementioned loop.


Voila. Stable 195F coolant temps, with a low temperature delta when the thermostat opens and closes. This should help improve bore wear, MPG, and keep temps up during cold weather rides.


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A set of Acerbis handguards went on today to protect my digits/levers, and they look quite nice to boot.


My luggage is also mounted to test fit all my attachment points. I'm quite fond of the Nelson Rigg gear, and they all fit quite well on the KLX without hindering my ability to ride the bike. My tubes and tire levers go on the front fender, valuables in the tank bag, and camping gear will fit in the saddles. Easy Peasy.


b dkw1

Excellent choice! I put a lot of miles on my 99 KLX300. The most reliable bike I have ever owned, I beat on that thing and neglected it's maintenance. It just kept on ticking.

The best way to protect the radiators is an Acerbis desert tank.

For long trips you're going to want a better seat.


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I looked into the Acerbis tank, but wasn't overly fond with how it looked but I could certainly see how it'd protect the radiators!

I may redo the seat at some point to make it a bit more comfortable, as currently it rivals a 2x4" in cushion.


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I wired in a separate relay with its own fuse to power my add on accessories. I prefer to not add these circuits on to the bikes stock system, as its easy to overload them and cause reliability issues.


The trigger wire for the relay coil is tied in to key switch power, and will keep me from killing the battery if I forget to turn off my heated grips or phone charger.

b dkw1

The KLX seat is downright luxurious compared to a stock KTM saddle. I call it the vinyl wrapped 2X4 ass wedge. It got replaced before the first ride.

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