Some updates from the rest of the year...
Camper sides
I had wanted to play around with and build some poor mans fiberglass panels for the camper but in a rush for one of my first trips I got some AC ply and made some temporary sides that came together pretty well. After talking to a few boat builder friends it seems like a better investment of my time (unfortunately my money too) to make actual fiberglass panel sides. I’ve been wanting to make some under bed storage boxes like you see on Norweld or Ute trays, I didn’t want to go with steel because the weight, it would be a good project to get back into welding aluminum but this presented an opportunity to try building with fiberglass. I know it doesn’t seem as strong as metal but it’ll brush away 98% of the things that come in contact with it and if something like a stump or rock does make contact it would damage metal or aluminum either way. (Just before posting I saw some premade aluminum ones on eBay for ~$250 a pair, may have to look into those before going too far down the fiberglass box path)
So at some point over the next year I plan on remaking the camper sides with fiberglass along with some under bed storage compartments.
(setting airbags to level out once on flat ground)
Removed cross drain
After cutting the black tank drain that runs across the rear of the camper I was able to modify the back rack and rub rail to allow the camper to slide forward another 4 inches or so and remove the foam board underneath. I’m much happier with the fitment. I can hook the flexi hose to the new tank valve and have it drain from a removable piece of wood on the bed and keep everything enclosed in that compartment.
Airbags
Got a set of Air Lift airbags and they improved the sag / clearance issue but brought up a new set of inconveniences. Even with the minimum 5lbs of air they rake the truck a bit without any load and took away what little ride quality was there without them installed. When loaded with the camper they do help level front to back and side to side but the front of the truck takes enough weight that there is still a slight rake. A 1” spacer could fix that but I saw in early in January AEV will start to support the super duty platform and will interested to see what products they might come out with.
Stairs
The original 4 step of stairs wasn’t enough for my trucks height so I bought a 2 step online and attached both (to replace one with a broken weld and add an extra) to have a 5 step. It’s just about right but the stairs are from different manufacturers so the geometry is slightly off. The two new ones at the bottom are usually pretty level but the rest are pitched downhill and doesn’t feel right coming out of the camper. I may swap them around so the first two are at least level and see how it feels from there, or I may fix and add the leftover step and see if that helps. They get pretty expensive to purchase new so seeing if either of those two options will make it feel and be safe enough to live with.
Jacks
After inspecting and swapping around parts I replaced the two front 4150 Happi Jacks with a pair of 4820 from eBay. Someone had a bunch of new black ones and I put in a low bid that they actually went for. A can of white spray paint and they were good to go. They have a longer reach and a higher weight rating and have been great so far. When the budget allows I’ll replace the rears as well.
Fridge fan and dimmer
I know the Dometic 3-way fridges aren’t the best but with a little modification I’m hoping I can get by using it a little longer. I started with one computer fan hooked up to a variable speed dial. It immediately improved but haven’t done enough long term use to determine how effective it really is, and with the weather getting cooler I’ll have to see next year during the summer heat. I have a second fan to install as well but will wait to see if one is enough.
Roof Motor
I cut a hole under the mattress to gain access to the back of the roof motor. The brushes were getting bad and would have to tap it to get it going. I called Hallmark and there are no replacement motors or parts and the only “fix” would be to bring it back to the factory to have the hand crank version installed for thousands of dollars. I found some Dewalt brushes that were nearly identical and everything has been working and will use some 90 degree drill adapters to raise and lower if or when it does totally fail. I was surprised such a critical part had no parts or replacement but with the hex nut on the back of the existing motor, the adapters will work if that time comes.
Other small things like swapping out the existing LED bulbs for a lighter warmer color. I recessed the roof switch that usually sticks out along the floor. I keep the stairs there in the hall during highway travel and imagined it being bumped or ripped off from them, or me in the middle of the night trying to take a pee out the door without turning lights on.
I got a Victron BMV-712 to monitor my electrical system. I never load tested my aging led acid batteries and was worried how much reserve I really had in them. Come to find out they are mostly gone so will swap to LiPo4 in the spring when I start to use the camper again. They make “mini” 100AH batteries that are 9” x 8.2” x 5.4” that are small enough I can fit some under the dinette base and replace a drawer behind the inverter to get 300-400AH. But then begins the rest of the possible electrical system upgrades. I have the truck side of a DC to DC charging system but need a charge controller for going to lithium. I’m looking into if anyone makes a new AC/DC converter unit that fits in the old Parallax power supply space so I don’t need to go changing the entire system around. As much as I’d like to replace the whole system with Victron equipment most of it still works and just needs some adjustments to work properly with lithium. With that many amp hours and when the DC/DC charging gets installed I don’t see myself needing to go to solar too soon.
I'm sure I'm forgetting some things but will continue to add to the page as I chip away at things....
