80-Series suspension lift - alignment?

[All-Terrain]

How does the alignment change on an 80 when you lift it?

I understand the caster starts to decrease, so after about 2" of suspension lift, you need aftermarket bushings to return the caster angle to near stock.

What about the axles themselves, do they move left or right at all? Are there links to correct it, if so?

I want to keep alignment as close to factory as possible, but would like to get the truck lifted about 1-2". Starting with an 80 that already has the factory Landcruiser springs that were bought new and installed no more than 2 years ago, so it is at the true factory LC height already (no sagging).

 

[coax]

How does the alignment change on an 80 when you lift it?

I understand the caster starts to decrease, so after about 2" of suspension lift, you need aftermarket bushings to return the caster angle to near stock.

What about the axles themselves, do they move left or right at all? Are there links to correct it, if so?

I want to keep alignment as close to factory as possible, but would like to get the truck lifted about 1-2". Starting with an 80 that already has the factory Landcruiser springs that were bought new and installed no more than 2 years ago, so it is at the true factory LC height already (no sagging).

You might consider jumping over to ih8mud, lots of technical information over there. In short, caster and toe are the only "alignments" that are somewhat readily adjustable on the 80. You are correct, in the 1-2" range its good to start thinking about correcting the caster. Some may tell you it will drive just fine. Easy way is to lift it and take it to an alignment shop to see what the caster reading is, and correct (or not) from there. Toe won't change with the lift. Due to the panhard rods the axles will move slightly left/right as you lift, but most don't worry about getting new or adjustable links until the 4" of lift range. A few companies including slee either offer new links or DIY adjusters to install. Same with the sway bars and rear control arms. (No need to mess with them for a 1-2" lift. )

HTH!
Corey

 

[All-Terrain]

Been there, thanks. The IH8MUD forum software that they're using is ****ty.... err.... not user-friendly. Also, the color scheme sucks too. This setup is much easier on the eyes and the brain.

 

[60Dan]

Been there, thanks. The IH8MUD forum software that they're using is ****ty.... err.... not user-friendly. Also, the color scheme sucks too. This setup is much easier on the eyes and the brain.

So true!

I have the caster correction bushings in mine with a 3" OME lift and it still wanders a little. Worse at highway speeds, don't notice it at all around town. When you do the lift it's worth going with a heavy duty steering stabilizer too, that helps a lot and save wear and tear on your steering box.

 

[86tuning]

Did you pull the trigger on your suspension yet? If not, here's a couple things I've learned.

My pre-lift caster was 2.0 deg. So I slotted the mounting holes until my post-lift caster was also 2.0 deg.

The axles didn't move sideways enough with my OME heavy front/ medium rear springs for me to worry about it. OME 850-860 if I remember right.

I used fox 10" remote-reservoir smooth body dampers. I like them, good value for the money. Mine are set up for twisty highway cruising, but work fine when crawling around on the rocks, or when off pavement on gravel.

 

[theside00]

As you go higher the pan hard bars will pull the axles off to the side. It is not as noticeable when it is sitting in the garage but when you start flexing it out you will notice it. One tire will go into the fender while the other will hit the lip. You can get adjustable pan hard bars to account for this. With a 1-2 inch lift you probably won't notice it though.

 

[RMP&O]

For those that care....


4" lift on my 80, result is castor out by nearly 10*! 3* bushings make it driveable but barely. Ideal castor is in the 4-6* range with 35 or bigger tires. 80's have some pretty big issues suspension wise once you go above 3". Castor is the main one for me but there are others. if you want to read more on the subject....

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/flexing-the-3-link.804601/

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/random-3-link-nonsense.812559/page-5#post-9305370

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/4wh...ull-frontal-attack.813697/page-6#post-9306770

Cheers

 

[concretejungle]

Yep, a lot of info on mud. It's not that bad of software, come on!!

I'm running the slee 4 inch progressive lift, this is after coming from an old man emu 2.5 inch lift that i ran for many years. As soon as i jumped above the 2.5 inch mark, castor was an issue. I corrected castor with the slee arms. there are other cheaper options such as plates, but i feel that suspension is not a place to cheap out. Once that was done, i had to address driveline vibration issues with the front shaft, so that caused me to need a double cardan front drive shaft. You will need to extend your brake lines and also extend your sway bar connections. I ran without a front sway bar for years and recently put it back on. It makes a HUGE difference when driving on road, so i'll suggest keeping it on.

I need to do the pan hard rods now because the offset of the wheels are noticeable, but i'm not sure they are noticeable performance wise.... not sure, but i do plan on taking care of that. So that's another thing. Then, if you really want to dial it in, you can either extend the lower rear control arms or adjust the uppers to get your rear pinion back into stock angles. This is another item i have not done yet and not sure it's necessary. But, i would eventually like to have the entire suspension exactly where it should be.

 

[RMP&O]

Yep, a lot of info on mud. It's not that bad of software, come on!!

But, i would eventually like to have the entire suspension exactly where it should be.

Me too! I almost went with Slee arms but then figured out the DC front shaft thing and I can not fit one in my truck due to having a 4L60e trans. So for me, the riddle can not be solved with bolt ons unless I want a whole bunch of combo items to correct castor which I don't. I am going one of two routes at this point, bend the radius arms to give me the right castor or put on HellFire knuckles and cut & turn my front axle plus convert my steering to normal crossover. I guess there is a 3rd option, 3-linking the front. Really don't want to go down that road on my truck though even if it results in one super nice riding and handling 80.

Curious, what shocks are you running. My current OME's only have 3" of down travel and I need to get some new shocks, thinking FOX.

Cheers

 

[86tuning]

Fox is good value. Works well and can be valved for almost any application. Sunny and Neil at Downsouth Motorsports were incredibly helpful with parts and adjustments.

I feel that my truck drives just fine with 2deg caster and 35s. Would I like more? Probably. But that would require a cut n turn, which I may do with a spare axle then swap in. Our track cars are set up with. 3.5deg caster and that works well on the racetrack. I'm sure the 80 would feel better but for now I shall settle with what I've got.