92 E250 5.8 driving me insane, talk me out of selling it!

eblau

Adventurer
I know a lot of you have E250/ E350 with 351W so heres one for you:

My van: 1992 351W 160,000 miles. Well maintained.

Classic bucking/ stuttering misfiring etc. issue but comes and goes like most of these do. The last round of this was way worse than usual though, in addition to the random misfire/ stutter there have been fits of backfiring and once so far it has shut off while idling. I have done KOEO test and the most recent codes were 123 and 113, 123 being the most relevant as it is TPS input voltage too high. 113 is a rich code which obviously could have been set at any point during this last fit it was throwing. I cleared those, drove it for about 30 miles then had another round of codes, after the shutting off while idling, 183 and 128. 183 being a rich code, again not going to get me anywhere BUT 128... MAP. I have replaced the TPS and even had to modify the eccentric holes in the TPS itself it get it below 1.0v at idle so I can "assume" its not that, although with the garbage being produced these days it certainly is suspect. I have removed the PCM and had the capacitors replaced as well as the board cleaned but mine was pretty bad so I cannot rule that out at this point. My brain is ruling out vacuum leaks because of one particular thing it does/ does not do: randomly it will increase idle from normal to up around 2000 then back down again. I have checked the notorious hard lines for cracks, the TAB and TAD lines look great and I have repaired the tank vent valve rubber lines. It will do that revving on its own and its very precise how it revs and drops, like something controlling that specifically unlike a vacuum leak where its either leaking or it isn't and erratic while the PCM tries to adjust. Occasionally it will run perfectly, we made a run down to TN where we enjoyed nearly 1000 trouble free miles in the summer with the AC cranking the entire time, it stuttered slightly when pulling a grade but otherwise it was fine. My intuition is telling me check the TPS, check the idle valve... if they are in spec I think I may have another issue with the PCM. The PCM sends its 5v reference to the TPS in addition to other various sensors on the same circuit like the MAP sensor so perhaps there is a short and its sending more than 5V to the TPS and MAP randomly? Any better ideas? I was planning on another 1000 mile long weekender in March but this has axed those plans.
 

eblau

Adventurer
ALSO: I have not done a KOER test, I will do that tonight and post what it displays.

Fuel pressure is fine at idle as well as under load. Forgot to mention that, forget what the spec was but it was dead on last time I checked.
 

eblau

Adventurer
I love it, its a class B and I think it was used as a snowbird RV from somewhere in NJ down to south Florida for years then got parked, presumable under cover by the lack of rust anywhere. I want to keep it indefinitely BUT I just can't wrap my head around this issue its had! Coincidentally my 94 BMW had nearly the exact issue, bucking, missing, shutting off when idling. I replaced the ECU and it was perfect. Maybe my cars are diagnosing each other!

28 years old, 160000 miles, under 6K miles a year WOW. Sounds like a keeper.
 

Toyaddict

Active member
I had the same van with very similar symptoms and replacing the Pcm took care of my problems. I see you had yours redone previously, mine had leaked bad enough and I needed the van so I bought a remanned unit.
 

eblau

Adventurer
Thank you, when I see codes getting thrown randomly like this along with these symptoms that was kinda my gut feeling all along. Perhaps the board was just too damaged by the capacitors leaking, it was definitely a worse than a few others I've seen posted.

I had the same van with very similar symptoms and replacing the Pcm took care of my problems. I see you had yours redone previously, mine had leaked bad enough and I needed the van so I bought a remanned unit.
 

eblau

Adventurer
Something that just popped in to my head is the temperature at which these issues occur. I first started noticing the bucking and stuttering last winter, I did the aforementioned work and it seemed to clear up. We took a trip down to Atlanta last March, about 1200 miles and it again performed well. It was unseasonably warm then too. We took several more trips in it during the summer, OBX, TN and Hot Springs NC, again, running great. It has been in the 20s-30s at night here and I haven't driven it much until prepping for this trip and its been especially bad. Perhaps the PCM board when warm is helping whatever damage it has had but when cold it is exacerbating the damage? Just a thought.
 

Toyaddict

Active member
Thank you, when I see codes getting thrown randomly like this along with these symptoms that was kinda my gut feeling all along. Perhaps the board was just too damaged by the capacitors leaking, it was definitely a worse than a few others I've seen posted.

I forgot to mention mine at random would throw an unbelievable amount of codes. Somewhere ~15, one of which was a fault code for the PCM itself.
 

eblau

Adventurer
Same here, I expect a bunch during KOER test. I will post later tonight or tomorrow.

I forgot to mention mine at random would throw an unbelievable amount of codes. Somewhere ~15, one of which was a fault code for the PCM itself.
 

eblau

Adventurer
Fiddled again this evening, did KOER test and only pulled one code, 411 engine idle too high. duh. Tested TPS and got a nice sweep from .94v up to about 4.5v and 5v reference. Tested IAC valve and got 13 ohms which was in spec. Let it idle for a while and it revved up and down a few times by itself then it died. Called it a night.
 

Ole Chipper

Member
Find a PCM and swap it out. Long story but my 97 7.3l F350 had all sorts of issues on and off for almost a year. Run some times, die start right up, run throw a code die, run again, replace another part, run for a week, die. Finally went to the junk yard and pulled a used PCM and the truck has NEVER run better. All problems solved.
 

eblau

Adventurer
I may go to the junkyard on Monday and pull a PCM and also check and see if the 7.3 E350 is still there! Ha! It's got the full floater still in it too!
 

OverlandNA

Well-known member
I would get a can of throttle body cleaner, disassemble and clean the IAC & remove and clean the throttle body. While the TB is off check for wear in the body walls from the throttle plates.
Check the EGR system for proper function.
 

eblau

Adventurer
Thank you,

I'm going to remove the IAC and clean but this throttle body is one of those teflon anti sludge ones and the repair manual says do not clean with solvents. It is pretty clean though just from a visual inspection. I suppose the IAC could be sticking despite being about a year old. Worth a shot.

I would get a can of throttle body cleaner, disassemble and clean the IAC & remove and clean the throttle body. While the TB is off check for wear in the body walls from the throttle plates.
Check the EGR system for proper function.
 

eblau

Adventurer
Finally had some time today to call around and get another PCM to try and got lucky at a salvage yard about 20 minutes away, they had one from a 93 that matched mine and was a factory reman. I plugged it in as soon as I got home and let it idle and then took it out for about 30 miles. None of the issues I was having with the erratic idle and stalling are present and it seems to be running well. I do still have a few pesky little things like very slight misfires under load but I can live with that, these seem to all be plauged with that anyways. Just wanted to follow up in case anyone was having similar issues.
 

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