98.5 tow/expo cummins

[jkruby]

hey everyone i've been lurking for a while now but finally got a truck, this is going to be a DD, tow rig, and expo rig!

98.5 cummins
freshly rebuilt 47re tranny with a shift kit and billit single disc converter
235/75/16 mtr's (old style)
edge juiced with attitude programmer

the idea is keep it simple (KISS) the truck has a 3 inch body lift which i'm going to take off, i'm going to mount a set of DC fun country II's 315/75/16's, then get a camper top. i'm going to remove the beat to crap steps that are currently on it, then make a set of sliders for it. once i get the camper top i'm going to make a roof rack for it so i can take my kayak or canoe on trips. then work on building some bumpers later on down the road. i was originally torn between expoing my truck or unlimited rubi but seeing the mileage it gets vs my jeep, its a no brainer for what i'm wanting to do, plus i can make longer trips with the storage, and fuel consumption. any and all input will be appreciated!

as it sits for now :Wow1:

 

[bftank]

looks like a great base to start from!

 

[blue dog]

Good start. look into a fuel pump system like a fass or airdog and some gauges like a egt, trans temp and fuel pressure. Maybe a exhaust and air box to get the truck breath better. Upgrade your track bar, factory set up sucks, check your uni bearings and ball joints. These are most of the weak points on this truck. Have fun and hope this helps.

 

[jkruby]

Thanks for the track bar info I did not realize that about them, we had just checked the ball joints and unit bearings as I had bought the truck off a buddy of mine, we know the Fuel pump has been changed but I have no idea what to as I can not get ahold of the original owner. Luckily the programmer has all the gauges built into it.

Does anyone hae advice towards camper tops?

 

[Regcabguy]

Dropping it down works. The 315's will rub the control arms which if stock are pretty abrasive. I found the 285's worked well on stock rims and aired down do decent in the sand. As aforementioned a set of gauges and in your case especially, a fuel pressure gauge is a must. New RV 275 injectors with the box work well with your upgraded trans. Check the brakes out thoroughly. They need to be in tip top shape as rear discs were not introduced until 2001.5 which helped with the stopping power.

You're on your way!

www.genosgarage.com is a good source of information,great service and reasonable prices on Dodge CTD upgrades.

 

[blue dog]

REGCABGUY, do you know anything about a disc brake conversion for the rear of 2nd gen's. My brakes absolutely suck. I already upgraded my disc's in the front, but the rear needs some love. Stepping up to 37's, it really is a must.

 

[Regcabguy]

REGCABGUY, do you know anything about a disc brake conversion for the rear of 2nd gen's. My brakes absolutely suck. I already upgraded my disc's in the front, but the rear needs some love. Stepping up to 37's, it really is a must.

Yeah,I did the EGR conversion on the '98.5. Complete waste of time and bookoo money. The master cylinder doesn't have the fluid volume to enable the rear calipers to function properly. Lots of spongy pedal travel after repeated professional bleedings. The emergency brake sucks after that also.

I did the Chevy 1-ton wheel cylinder upgrade and went so far as bypassing the proportioning valve per a Dodge tsb for vehicles constantly loaded. That was Dodge admitting they supplied underspecd'd brakes. The thing that worked was a Pacbrake exhaust brake. That gave me very good compression braking.

The other option is a 2001.5-2002 rear axle which was the first year of long awaited rear discs. That too requires a 2001.5 master cylinder

My constant 2000# camper load simulated 37's and more. I'd see if rear brake upgrades were out there or get the eb.

If you've got a manual you're set to go with an eb,with an auto it's going to need to be beefed up and equipped with a mystery shift to manually lock/unlock the torque converter.

 

[blue dog]

Yeah,I did the EGR conversion on the '98.5. Complete waste of time and bookoo money. The master cylinder doesn't have the fluid volume to enable the rear calipers to function properly. Lots of spongy pedal travel after repeated professional bleedings. The emergency brake sucks after that also.

I did the Chevy 1-ton wheel cylinder upgrade and went so far as bypassing the proportioning valve per a Dodge tsb for vehicles constantly loaded. That was Dodge admitting they supplied underspecd'd brakes. The thing that worked was a Pacbrake exhaust brake. That gave me very good compression braking.

The other option is a 2001.5-2002 rear axle which was the first year of long awaited rear discs. That to requires a 2001.5 master cylinder

My constant 2000# camper load simulated 37's and more. I'd see if rear brake upgrades were out there or get the eb.

If you've got a manual you're set to go with an eb,with an auto it's going to need to be beefed up and equipped with a mystery shift to manually lock/unlock the torque converter.

Did bypassing the pro. valve do anything ? I have a 6 speed manual, did not think of exhaust brake, Mainly due to not pulling very often. In your experience, is the exhaust brake the best bang for the buck ? Thanks for the info.
Sorry for hijacking this thread.

 

[Regcabguy]

Did bypassing the pro. valve do anything ? I have a 6 speed manual, did not think of exhaust brake, Mainly due to not pulling very often. In your experience, is the exhaust brake the best bang for the buck ? Thanks for the info.
Sorry for hijacking this thread.

Try the Chevy 1-ton wheel cylinder. They are available from NAPA. You ask for one for a 1-ton drum brake equipped truck. This is a good time for a brake flush also. As far as the proportioning valve goes,some guys tie up the rod to simulate a heavy load which will bias more fluid to the rear. That would be less drastic than the bypass which is fairly permanent.

If that doesn't do it for you,a Pacbrake will amaze you. You've got the manual tranny,so it's a shoe-in.

The 6.7's come with a turbo form of compression braking for a reason: they work. I loved my Pacbrake,but do to the great brakes on my '07 haven't,pushed the button yet.

 

[blue dog]

Try the Chevy 1-ton wheel cylinder. They are available from NAPA. You ask for one for a 1-ton drum brake equipped truck. This is a good time for a brake flush also. As far as the proportioning valve goes,some guys tie up the rod to simulate a heavy load which will bias more fluid to the rear. That would be less drastic than the bypass which is fairly permanent.

If that doesn't do it for you,a Pacbrake will amaze you. You've got the manual tranny,so it's a shoe-in.

The 6.7's come with a turbo form of compression braking for a reason: they work. I loved my Pacbrake,but do to the great brakes on my '07 haven't,pushed the button yet.

researched exhaust brakes last night, and made a few calls to guys that i know, seems the pac brake is the way to go. i was told to stay away from the vac assist units. I need to research what brake will work as i have a aftermarket turbo and 4" exhaust threw and threw on a 2nd gen. Thanks for the help. Pac brake complete kit, best price i could find is $1299, that is with everything, seems like a simple installation.

 

[Regcabguy]

I think we've hijacked this thread enough. Time to star a fresh one or PM me for any additional info. You will love the eb.

 

[jkruby]

don't sweat the high jack it was good info. i'm getting my tires on monday getting my coilovers on my jk have taken all my time. i parked in a parking garage tonite at a rib festival, are your guys trucks a complete pain to steer when the truck is sitting or moving slow to get moved around in a parking garage? i'm going to check my fluid after work tomorrow but it wasn't making any strange noises

 

[jkruby]

figured i'd knock the dust off this thread, i've been working a lot of OT here lately so i haven't been able to do much, but that should be done for the year. meanwhile i've gotten a few things done to the truck. i had a fuel line break at the sending unit so i had to fix it (marine tex epoxy is amazing). while doing that i got half the body lift off, and my camper top semi painted. i'm looking for some ideas for the inside of the camper as far as insulation, ventilation, heating, and lighting. i'm going to take the rest of the body lift off soon and build a rear bumper. i just used the truck to tow my jeep on a trip which was great, between camping in the truck and not worrying about getting home for once it made the trip a lot better.

 

[bftank]

that looks tons better without the body lift and the bigger tires!

i have heard of gluing thick foamboard like what you can get at lowes to the sheetmetal. i believe you can get it in thicknesses up to 2"'s.

 

[jkruby]

thanks! that body lift was brutal, i'd like to get the front lift off soon, and remove those beat up steps. i'm going to lowes tomorrow since tomorrow is my saturday and sunday so i'm going to look at the busted locker in my jeep, making sure thats all i broke, then look at putting some of that insulation in the truck. i'd like to get some vents in the roof if time prevails