AEV Dual Sport Track Bar issue

[ttengineer]

I have a 2014 with the R46 recall bracket. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the AEV track bar.

As you can see from the photos one of the M10 bolt heads rubs the track bar.

I am just completely sick over this. And I’m more than pissed AEV has not released a statement warning owners and installers of the issue. To top it off, the AEV rep I called, Patrick, told me they are have no resolution and are not seeking one. Had I known this ahead of time I would have gone with a full Carli kit.

But here I am stuck with it.

So I am seeking help from you all.

What can I do to resolve this?

Sooner than later I’ll have to buy another track bar, because I’m sure AEV will not warranty this, and the god damned bolt is going to ware out my bushing in a hurry which will most likely lead to further part issues.

Is there a track bar out there that will clear this recall bracket AND account for the 1” forward on the axle?

I’ve been scouring and calling like crazy but no luck.

Seriously, any help here is greatly appreciated.

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[Explorerinil]

Wow that’s close, yes AEV’s customer service is horrible, between knuckle issues and trac bar issues I never recommend their lift to anyone.

I am guessing the AEV trac bar is longer than stock and has a bend in it to compensate for moving the axle forward? I would love to see a pic of an a AEV ba

 

[ttengineer]

Here are some photos, not great, I found online comparing the two. I can not tell if the AEV bar is bent to accommodate the 1” forward.

I almost say it doesn’t, because they do not include a new bar or spacer in the 37”-40” conversion kit.

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[1stDeuce]

Ugh, that recall bracket is hokey at best... Is that a tall head allen bolt? If so, replace it with a pan head bolt. for better clearance. It'll still be close, shouldn't rub.

It also appears that the rivit nut for that bolt is poorly installed... It should be seated flush against the frame, and it's not... I would sugget removing that bolt, and cutting out the poorly installed rivit nut. Then clamp the bracket tight to the frame and weld it into place. No more rubbing bolt, and you'll have a bracket that will actually add some stiffness to the original track bar mount, rather than just catching it after it breaks off...

 

[ttengineer]

Ugh, that recall bracket is hokey at best... Is that a tall head allen bolt? If so, replace it with a pan head bolt. for better clearance. It'll still be close, shouldn't rub.

It also appears that the rivit nut for that bolt is poorly installed... It should be seated flush against the frame, and it's not... I would sugget removing that bolt, and cutting out the poorly installed rivit nut. Then clamp the bracket tight to the frame and weld it into place. No more rubbing bolt, and you'll have a bracket that will actually add some stiffness to the original track bar mount, rather than just catching it after it breaks off...

Yea I noticed the rivnut was a ******** install. I found the mopar install video and watched it. They say that the rivnut has to be tight against the frame as well as the bracket.

I’ve got a VM into the dealer but I doubt they will claim any wrong doing.

I also stopped by Fastenal this afternoon on my way home and got a grade 8 M10-1.5x25 pan head.

We will see how it goes.

I’d like to weld it but finding someone to do that is tuff.


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[1stDeuce]

If nothing else, see if you can pound or press that rivnut fully into the frame... It'll mushroom more and lock into place when you put the new fastener in. Or it should, anyway...

Any welding shop or mobile welder should be able to weld the bracket to the frame. If you clean it up first, and get all the rust and paint off, it shouldn't take them more than 20 minutes.

 

[Explorerinil]

Yea I noticed the rivnut was a **** install. I found the mopar install video and watched it. They say that the rivnut has to be tight against the frame as well as the bracket.

I’ve got a VM into the dealer but I doubt they will claim any wrong doing.

I also stopped by Fastenal this afternoon on my way home and got a grade 8 M10-1.5x25 pan head.

We will see how it goes.

I’d like to weld it but finding someone to do that is tuff.


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I agree 100% with the other person on this forum, weld it on like it should have been done. I did not realize the recall bracket was not welded on. You around central il? I’ll weld it up for you. If not look for a local welding shop, years ago before I had a mig welder I ran down to a local welding shop and had them weld bracket on my tie rod for a psc assist, they also welded some brackets to the frame, I think it gave the guy like $50 and he cleaned the bracket before he welded it up.

 

[ttengineer]

The problem is the bracket consists of several pieces. At least 2.

I’ll check into it though.


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[Explorerinil]

Thinking more about this, could you remove that bolt, bend the bracket so it’s closer to the from and weld it on? That will gain you some clearance.

 

[Explorerinil]

Thinking more about this, could you remove that bolt, bend the bracket so it’s closer to the from and weld it on? That will gain you some clearance.

 

[ttengineer]

Welding it would solve the clearance issue.

But I’ll need to see if it can even be done without adversely effecting the trackbar.

If I could find the new factory trackbar bracket that has the upgraded structure I’d rather get that, cut the old one off, and weld it on.


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[chet6.7]

This guy welded the bracket.
I had the recall performed with the riv-nuts,I wonder if getting the frame welded would be the best course of action? I have never named vehicles like some,but this truck should be called Recall Ram.

 

[Laramieskibum]

Here are some photos, not great, I found online comparing the two. I can not tell if the AEV bar is bent to accommodate the 1” forward.

I almost say it doesn’t, because they do not include a new bar or spacer in the 37”-40” conversion kit.

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That looks like my shoe and sun smoked sod.


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