Allagash Ice Cave

gm13

Adventurer
This is from 3 trips I made to the NMW 2 years ago in the Discovery, including my first to the area. I haven't noticed a post here about the Ice Cave at Allagash Lake so thought I'd put one up.

The Ice Cave is located at the NW end of Allagash Lake in the Allagash Wilderness Waterway(AWW). The wilderness area lies within the North Maine Woods, basically the whole of NW Maine and encompasses more than 3,500,000 acres along with thousands of miles of logging road and really nothing else. It is a fissure cave, not too large, as Maine geology isn't prone to spawning big caves, with a length of about 950' and a depth of close to 70' Access is typically via the lake, by canoe then up a short trail. That's the way those with at least average intelligence get there, it's easy.

The Maine Atlas map 55 shows an old logging road that heads up towards the cave, meets an AWW survey trace and disappears (or runs into a pond depending on edition). Looked like it would be fun to try and find the Cave via an overland route. It only took 3 trips. In retrospect I'll add that it isn't really difficult, I just wanted excuses for going back.

The first of these was late May 2010, before the notorious black fly and the ubiquitous mosquito are out in force. I arrived mid day on a Friday after 5 hrs of driving, 2.5 on pavement 2.5 on private "road" beginning with the Golden rd. out of Millinocket then all the roads seem to be shale and clay.

Spent the afternoon trying to find the right old road, they are numerous, unmarked and often go nowhere or end in alder or balsam thicket. After fording 2 beaver created ponds in the road I set out on foot at the third, which after inspection spelled probable hydrolock for the truck. 2 miles further I realize this isn't it and it's looking like time to get back to the truck, find a camping spot and try again in the morning. After setting up camp at the N end of Round Pond, cooking some grub, I take a another look at the map and realize my mistake, head back out and locate the right "road," that accomplished, back to camp in time for the 5th moose of the day to stumble(they do look ungainly) out of the bush 20 yds from my tent and into the pond to swim across, pretty cool.

Day 2
Up just as the rain starts falling around 5:00, packed before things got too wet and thankful it's only a drizzle at this point. Head out in the rain to the bouldered trailhead, park , watch a black bear run across my path and start walking at about 7. It doesn't look too bad, at first.
Shortly it turns into aforementioned balsam thicket that is such a joy to mash through. Meandering down a moose track, the only real indication I'm on an old road is the feeling underfoot, not like a forest floor should feel. This and vintage edge effect growth is a helpful indicator of the right track. This first attempt was done with map and compass, helpful if you believe you are on the track the map is indicating. Not so much if you doubt its accuracy, which I did. It is just an old logging road, how accurate would they make it?

I pass old spurs laden with raspberry and slash. Normally in hiking situations coming across a road is an indication that you can get somewhere should you get lost. Here they lead nowhere in any direction. I'm trying to take in as much detail of my surroundings as I proceed but honestly I'm on a mission and miss a lot of things that one should pay attention to when basically bushwacking, along with wishing I'd brought the machete that is still in the truck to mark fallen trees. I cross a small stream in an alder thicket indicated on the map and continue, more of the same till about 4 miles out I'm at a swampy pond, I know I'm within .25mi of the cave I just have to get by this. Attempted numerous different tracks around it to no avail, more water or impenetrable thicket. The map shows a small pond a short distance past the cave and this is where I mistakenly believe I am. With the rain I decide to head back, try another time. On the return leg, spent a lot of time wondering if I'm still on track, before re-crossing the stream I realize I've never been here before, that's an interesting feeling in the middle of nowhere down an abandoned overgrown road off yet another one slightly less so. Nothing looks familiar and I'm in raspberry, I didn't walk through any raspberry. What the...where the hell am I? Doesn't matter that I've got a map and compass and that my truck is less than 3 miles away somewhere, panic is a primal thing and dashing off in different directions in search of something familiar when you weren't really paying attention in the first place isn't that effective. As a matter of fact It made me more confused, but for those ten minutes I knew I was alive. And I'll confess, I enjoyed it, probably why I was out there in the first place. Anyway, after putting the frontal lobe back in gear I retraced my steps and found where I missed the particular balsam thicket to mash through and all was right with the world. Back to the truck to make my way home in the rain. Moose number 6 spotted on the drive out. Epic fail.

Epic fail Trip 2
Late September
First day, in rain again make the trek. this time with satellite/topo hybrid map and a mapping gps. After a perusal of some pretty good sat images, I realize the pond I was stopped by last trip was not the one on my previous map. It was a boggy area before the cave. That was helpful but new info and sat pics only got me to the abandoned ranger station where I couldn't believe there wasn't a discernible trail to the Ice Cave campsite 1/4 mile away. Typically trails aren't allowed, it is "wilderness" after all.
Feeling sure of success this time was my downfall. I made a late morning start and at 2:30, still no further along, found myself stopped by the same swampy bog and thickets. Even tried all out hacking with the remembered machete-futile.
Back to the truck under clearing skies then off to Round Pond camp and more swimming moose.

Day2
Abandoned fire tower--Allagash Mountain.
Elevation 1749' and quite a view, clouded over by the time I made it up but really amazing anyway.
Home after changing tire slashed by shale on the way out.

Trip 3
Mid October
More of the same but with win.
Found a mouse(mouse not moose) track through the balsam thicket past the abandoned ranger station, leads to the Ice Cave campsite then to the cave. Climbed down into the main chamber, about 60' in and down about a 40-45 degree angle and tucked into a low side room. The full extent must be done slithering through some narrow one way passages to another exit. Being alone I thought it unwise to traverse the nether regions and find out if there actually is ice down there. I'll save that for the canoe escapade that will involve a group of us. Fun was had by all, that would be me.

Heading down the Telos road in the rain kept the dust down anyway.
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One of the 5 moose I'd see in 5 hours.
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On the Harvester rd, my first puddle
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The overgrown and blocked by boulders Ice Cave rd.
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This is the road, really.
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You get the idea
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Washed out bridge along the way
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I've seen albino Lady Slippers but never a double flowered one
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The "terminal bog"
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The abandoned ranger station
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Some kit
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From here a mash through more Balsam thicket brings you to the Ice Cave campsite. From there the cave is inland a bit.
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A few bats cling to the left wall
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looking up from the main chamber
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with some mood lighting
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Off to N Round Pond campsite to catch this guy barrel out of the bush
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Trying out a roof rack platform since the tent fit. 4 1'x8'x5/8" slats that slide into a channel at either end. Stacked and strapped, it keeps the windage down on the road but easy to set up. It's a nice option for up there as there is so much road you can camp along though not the best surface for a tent. I liked being able to set up lakeside or if need be, up top along the way. Go-hobo-top-tent
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Another interesting point is the abandoned Allagash Mountain firetower
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Great views
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The old Discovery, seems so luxurious now.
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Thanks for looking.
 

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RangeBrover

Explorer
Awesome write up and loved the photos, was up exploring around Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park a few years ago. Maine hands down is my favorite place on the east coast.
 

GREENI

Adventurer
Thanks for sharing...only last night I was reading OJ, about NMW. Great to see a moose in a puddle!
 

sixbennetts

Adventurer
Thanks for the map, Gm. That's up there. When I ask Google Maps for directions it's only 5 hours and change, but I gotta go through Canada!

For all you history buffs like me, this is only about 60 miles as the crow flies from the,, "height of land", area from Benedict Arnold and Daniel Morgan's march on Quebec during the American Revolution.

Now THAT was some fierce overlandin'!
 
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Ripper

Adventurer
GM I have to say I am loving your posts. I had plans to look for the Ice caves in 2010 (in the trip I mentioned In another thread of yours) but we had to severly scale back the trip as I broke my foot. The lady friend and I have been talking about planning another trip up to NMW for this summer. Hope I am able to make it happen. Thanks for you posts, they make for great motivation.
 

gm13

Adventurer
Thanks for sharing...only last night I was reading OJ, about NMW. Great to see a moose in a puddle!

No problem. I've been meaning to re-new my subscription, time to get on it, I'd like to read that one. Thanks for the heads up.

Thanks for the map, Gm. That's up there. When I ask Google Maps for directions it's only 5 hours and change, but I gotta go through Canada!

For all you history buffs like me, this is only about 60 miles as the crow flies from the,, "height of land", area from Benedict Arnold and Daniel Morgan's march on Quebec during the American Revolution.

Now THAT was some fierce overlandin'!

Yes, it must have been. I would have loved to see the area then.

Awesome write up and loved the photos, was up exploring around Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park a few years ago. Maine hands down is my favorite place on the east coast.

My wife and I were hiking in Acadia yesterday. I agree, my favorite place in the East too.

GM I have to say I am loving your posts. I had plans to look for the Ice caves in 2010 (in the trip I mentioned In another thread of yours) but we had to severly scale back the trip as I broke my foot. The lady friend and I have been talking about planning another trip up to NMW for this summer. Hope I am able to make it happen. Thanks for you posts, they make for great motivation.

Glad you found them motivating. Good luck with making it happen. It's great to go up and wander but sometimes it's nice to have something to find. Hope I didn't give out too much info to detract from anyone's experience.
 

m(a)ce

Adventurer
terrific! Sounds like a rewarding set of adventures!


For all you history buffs like me, this is only about 60 miles as the crow flies from the,, "height of land", area from Benedict Arnold and Daniel Morgan's march on Quebec during the American Revolution.

Now THAT was some fierce overlandin'!

Haha- excellent! fellow history geek here
 

gm13

Adventurer
I was just reading about Arnold's trek, amazing really, up the Kennebec river to the Dead, leaky boats, no food, the Great Carry was a mudfest, good stuff. Thanks for the mention. ME has a Height of Land just SE of Mooselookmeguntic lake, (the AT runs by it) but Arnold's H of L is just over the border by Coburn Gore in Quebec. Thought it was odd that one of ME's most scenic overlooks made no mention of the event, now I know why.

The bogus map used by the expedition(a few clicks scales it up):
MontresorChaudiereMap1760.jpg

Actual, tripped up by Spider Lake and surrounding bog(the H is H of L):
ArnoldExpeditionTopoMapAnnotated.jpg
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
Never done that although look at it a lot of times on the DeLorme. Great write up!

Those thickets are amazing along the sides of roads. At times virtually impenetrable....a wall of small trees inches apart that you cant knock over.

One time to try to get past a thicket following a stream a buddy and me "walked" on a big blow down tree. We got way down it and suddenly realized we were about 10 or 15 feet in the air. The end of the tree was just suspended in the air on all the other little trees. But we had no idea because the brush and other trees were so thick below us. Scared the bejeebers out of me thinking if I fell off I might be impaled or just not be able to climb "out".

Thanks for the write up....definitely inspired me to try one of these years up there.
 

glock_19

New member
Great write up. I took my first trip on the Allagash waterway (Chamberlain Lake to Round Pond) just about a month ago and I fell in love with the area. There's nothing quite like it in Virginia.

PS - If that is the fire tower you can access via a trail from Round Pond, then you're braver than I. There was no way I was climbing that rickety thing.
 

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