Alternator output and spotlights

bunduguy

Supporting Sponsor
Hello All,
I've searched for an answer to this question and no joy; so please feel free to just steer me to a link if you know it.

I have a 1998 LC100. As far as I know, it has the OEM alternator. I'm in the process of installing a National Luna dual battery system and will be using an Optima Yellow Top as the auxillary. Mostly I'll be running an ARB fridge, and various laptop, camera a phone chargers. What I am concerned about is the 4 PIAA 520 lights I'll be installing on the roof. I often find myself driving at night, both on and off-road, and have frequent wildlife encounters, hence the desire for a butt-load of lightingI've been trying to figure out the Amp draw on each light, and as far as I can see is around 7amp eachx4 = 28amp just for the lights. Add stereo, chargers, headlights etc?. But the OEM alternator is only 80amp output. So, should I be concerned that I will not be generating enough juice?

Apologies if this has been covered. My electrical knowledge sucks, so calling on any geniuses!
 

Albin

Adventurer
Upgrade the alternator and then you won't have to worry about it anymore.

High quality and high power (140 amps) alternators are available for $160 or so from Summit Racing. These are the Powermaster alternators that are GM-sytle and 10si sized.

Here's a good example: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-47294/

Lots of people have back-fitted these to Toy 4runners and pickups, I'm sure someone has installed one in your '98 LC100 by now. It might take a little engineering and parts design and fabbing, but it's usually no big deal.

The alternative is to buy a direct-fit replacement, but when I looked +6 years ago, prices were north of $350 or so. YMMV now.

Good luck.

Al
 

sleeoffroad

Adventurer
You don't have to worry. We have installed way more accessories and not have issues. I would not go away from a Toyota alternator. They are bulletproof.

You have to read the specs on hi-amp aftermarket alternators carefully and see at what rpms they will actually produce the amps.

There are some people that have adapted the Tundra alternator to the 80, but not sure if they did the 100.

For the 100 you can get a 80amp and 100amp alternator. I have the part numbers at work if you need them.

As for lighting, if you want to spot animals, look at the LED light bars. Low current and way more output that regular lights. The incredible flood coverage they provide is unsurpassed for spotting wildlife on the side of the roads.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
How do the LED bar compare to conventional light in terms of cost?


LED technology is still relatively expensive but gaining ground. Haitz's Law, similar to Moore's Law in the semi-conductor/computer world, states 'every decade the cost per lumen falls by a factor of 10 and the light generated per LED package increases by a factor of 20' at least for the beginning portion of the developmental "S" curve.

No question once LED technology is mature enough to allow lower prices it will foster a wholesale shift for most if not all lighting applications from incandescent/FL to LED for homes, businesses, mobile and automotive applications. Quite exciting actually!

On the Sequoia/Tundra 150A alternator swap into a LC 2UZFE motor: I researched this and had, courtesy of Onur at American Toyota Parts Dept, the Sequoia 150A and my 80A LC alternator side by side including the EWD for both (thanks to Landcruiserphil and hoser for EWDs), along with following the thread over on MUD about converting the Sequoia 150A into an 80, that this is easily doable and only requires changing the male plug apart on the harness side of the alternator electrical connection from the oval LC style to the more square Sequoia style. However due to the apparent incompatibility of the Mobi-Arc welder and the avalanche style rectifier the Sequoia/Tundra alternators use I elected to just install the 100A LC alternator recently. So I did all the research that certainly pointed to the viability of running the Sequoia 150A alternator I haven't actually tested it out.

But...apparently, regarding the welder application, there is a better way to connect this welder (that I learned about post 100A alt install) per Ben at Slee, that would have allowed keeping the Sequoia's rectifier and isolating the Mobi-Arc by utilizing a separate voltage regulator...so I may eventually install the Sequoia 150A alternator anyway.

Having said all that my original 80A alternator has done its job without complaint. As Christo stated the OEM Toyota alternators are almost bulletproof. If not for their low relative placement location where they tend to get soaked from deeper water/mud crossings they'd probably not even be a call for replacement alts! Mine lasted about 173k miles before the bearings were toast. But its kept the 2-batteries in my LC along with the 2-Group 31 batteries in my trailer happily charged without issue. But maybe, in the end, we just need to subscribe to the notion: "If it ain't broke don't try to fix it"...
 
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Mr. Leary

Glamping Excursionaire
You don't have to worry. We have installed way more accessories and not have issues. I would not go away from a Toyota alternator. They are bulletproof.

You have to read the specs on hi-amp aftermarket alternators carefully and see at what rpms they will actually produce the amps.

There are some people that have adapted the Tundra alternator to the 80, but not sure if they did the 100.

For the 100 you can get a 80amp and 100amp alternator. I have the part numbers at work if you need them.

As for lighting, if you want to spot animals, look at the LED light bars. Low current and way more output that regular lights. The incredible flood coverage they provide is unsurpassed for spotting wildlife on the side of the roads.


Great post. Spot on. I have returned to OEM alternators after bad experiences with spun up ones. Most of my lights (which I have yet to install) are LEDs, very low current draw per lumen.
 

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