normal_dave
waytoomuchwritinginposts.
..and valve seals, rear cam seals, front cam seals, valve cover seals, PCV valve, we've all heard it before. Oil discussions always get us into trouble, but I'm just going to report my results and take my beating.
So the wife's truck ('03 Montero Sport Limited) earned the nickname "ol smoky" since I was chasing excess oil usage and the dreaded extended idle smoke issue getting worse and worse. Rear cam seals, later front cam seals, and after quite a while, finally, new valve stem seals, and an OEM pcv valve along with bleeding the lifters in diesel fuel, and replacing the bad ones has solved the problem. In the process, I even tried the old rev it up cycles to clear the lifters, better, but no real fix.
I also read nearly every post across the world about switching to higher viscosity oils, this brand/that brand, to stem the oil loss tide, but nothing seemed to make any real difference to me. It seemed to me that the thicker oil might be harder to get past worn seals, but could make the lifter problem worse.
Apparently, our Monty's will start using/losing oil for many of the above reasons, we don't keep watch on it, the level drops dramatically and starves the top end enough or frequently enough to foul some lifters or damage them causing the infamous lifter tick.
Then enough time, heat, and/or starvation starts to destroy the valve stem seals allowing engine vacuum to pull oil past the seals into the combustion chamber, as the dipstick goes down, mosquito control goes up.
I tackled the lifters and valve seals at the same time, doubtful it would really help or last, but I'm happy to report that it is and has been a night/day difference and worth every bit of headache.
Why is this an oil story post you ask? Hang on a minute while I finish zipping the nomex suit...
I'm lazy, cheap, and read a TSB issued by Ford several years back (yes, blasphemy in the Mitsubishi forum!) concerning their new 5W20 oil and the results of testing that deemed it superseded nearly all of their prior specifications for gas engine oils back to 1991. I know, you say they were only trying to meet the New CAFE standards...but:
I was driving at the time, a Mercury Grand Marquis LSE with the 4.6L OHC V-8. (this was the test bed vehicle package that just preceded the Marauder, factory bucket seats, console floor shift, basically Police car style handling/performance blended with Lincoln luxury). I've driven several previous versions as a daily driver using the same engine for many years. The 4.6L engines in heavy fleet use were very picky about the type of oil used. Higher viscosity tended to starve the top end and you'd have lifter issues, valve seals, and in their case timing chain tensioner failures, etc., sound familiar?
I also still have the old school, trusty pushrod V-8, 5.8L Windsor hydraulic roller-cammed Ford van.
I grew tired of having to keep multiple brands, and grades of oil on hand, and really liked using Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend oil in 4.6L. The 5 quart bottle from the evil W-Mart is a very good price, and was always happy with how slowly it turned dark, quiet startups, seemingly lower oil consumption. I don't know who makes this oil for Ford, and I guess it really isn't important.
-----
excepts taken from:
TSB Article No.
02-1-9 ENGINE - ENGINE OIL - RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS FOR SAE 5W-20 AND SAE 5W-30 MOTOR OILS - GASOLINE AND FLEXIBLE FUEL VEHICLES ONLY
Publication Date: JANUARY 14, 2002
"ISSUE:
Ford Motor Company now recommends SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade for servicing most gasoline and flexible fueled vehicles."
"This oil is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy. Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be used in many previous model year vehicles. It is recommended ALL vehicles on the following Vehicle Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20."
And specifically in my case these:
"1992-2002 4.6L Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis"
"1993-1996 5.8L E-Series" (This one spec'd 5W30 from the factory)
----------
So I'm reading through the TSB, and decide to switch the old van to the 5W20 synthetic blend Motorcraft, that was about 3 years ago, and towing my cargo trailer most of the time, with good results. By now, you must know where this is going...During the top end work on the Sport, I was surprised at the tiny passages feeding the lifters through the rockers, as well as the lifters themselves. I also noted there was an improved lifter design on my engine with larger lifter passages, but still pretty small to me. I replaced 7 defective lifters that wouldn't hold pressure during the bleeding and/or had broken plastic rings.
Could I possibly get away with my beloved Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend in the Monty? Would the world stop turning? Would I destroy the bottom end in a desert environment under load? (Ford tested in Arizona at extreme temps btw) What would I do with the space in my garage I used to keep all the different weights of oil?
My Montero spec'd 5W30 SJ/CD, the 5W20 synthetic blend specs GF5/SN which meets/exceeds the prior Montero specs, and if your believe the Ford marketing department their 5W20 synthetic blend is superior to their 5W30.
From bobistheoilguy.com:
"Q. Does the difference in price between Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 and SAE 5W-30 really reflect a better oil?
A: Yes, Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 is a better oil than Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30. However, in response to Dealer Council Ford Motor Company has priced Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil exactly the same as Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil if you purchase it in BULK, 55-GALLON DRUMS, or the 5-QUART JUG. Only individual quart bottles of Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 cost more than Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30. Again, the better base oils, and increased additives such as friction modifiers and anti-oxidants used to formulate for the performance levels in the SAE 5W-20 do cost more, and reflect the significant increase in performance."
Last time I had an OEM order, I got a deal on some factory Mitsubishi oil filters and stocked up. I took the plunge, and have been running the dreaded 5W20 synthetic blend for over a year, and am enjoying quiet startups, extremely low consumption, and oil that reluctantly darkens over time.
Some of you, if you read this far are shaking your head, knowing all is lost, that I've been off my meds too long. Bottom line is use whatever oil you want, but be encouraged that if you take the time to do the oil usage repairs properly, your 3.5L may have lots of life left in it, oh, and I'm pretty pleased with my lazy, price-competitive choice in oil for my Montero.
Back to your regularly scheduled program...and what did this have to do with overlanding anyway?
So the wife's truck ('03 Montero Sport Limited) earned the nickname "ol smoky" since I was chasing excess oil usage and the dreaded extended idle smoke issue getting worse and worse. Rear cam seals, later front cam seals, and after quite a while, finally, new valve stem seals, and an OEM pcv valve along with bleeding the lifters in diesel fuel, and replacing the bad ones has solved the problem. In the process, I even tried the old rev it up cycles to clear the lifters, better, but no real fix.
I also read nearly every post across the world about switching to higher viscosity oils, this brand/that brand, to stem the oil loss tide, but nothing seemed to make any real difference to me. It seemed to me that the thicker oil might be harder to get past worn seals, but could make the lifter problem worse.
Apparently, our Monty's will start using/losing oil for many of the above reasons, we don't keep watch on it, the level drops dramatically and starves the top end enough or frequently enough to foul some lifters or damage them causing the infamous lifter tick.
Then enough time, heat, and/or starvation starts to destroy the valve stem seals allowing engine vacuum to pull oil past the seals into the combustion chamber, as the dipstick goes down, mosquito control goes up.
I tackled the lifters and valve seals at the same time, doubtful it would really help or last, but I'm happy to report that it is and has been a night/day difference and worth every bit of headache.
Why is this an oil story post you ask? Hang on a minute while I finish zipping the nomex suit...
I'm lazy, cheap, and read a TSB issued by Ford several years back (yes, blasphemy in the Mitsubishi forum!) concerning their new 5W20 oil and the results of testing that deemed it superseded nearly all of their prior specifications for gas engine oils back to 1991. I know, you say they were only trying to meet the New CAFE standards...but:
I was driving at the time, a Mercury Grand Marquis LSE with the 4.6L OHC V-8. (this was the test bed vehicle package that just preceded the Marauder, factory bucket seats, console floor shift, basically Police car style handling/performance blended with Lincoln luxury). I've driven several previous versions as a daily driver using the same engine for many years. The 4.6L engines in heavy fleet use were very picky about the type of oil used. Higher viscosity tended to starve the top end and you'd have lifter issues, valve seals, and in their case timing chain tensioner failures, etc., sound familiar?
I also still have the old school, trusty pushrod V-8, 5.8L Windsor hydraulic roller-cammed Ford van.
I grew tired of having to keep multiple brands, and grades of oil on hand, and really liked using Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend oil in 4.6L. The 5 quart bottle from the evil W-Mart is a very good price, and was always happy with how slowly it turned dark, quiet startups, seemingly lower oil consumption. I don't know who makes this oil for Ford, and I guess it really isn't important.
-----
excepts taken from:
TSB Article No.
02-1-9 ENGINE - ENGINE OIL - RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS FOR SAE 5W-20 AND SAE 5W-30 MOTOR OILS - GASOLINE AND FLEXIBLE FUEL VEHICLES ONLY
Publication Date: JANUARY 14, 2002
"ISSUE:
Ford Motor Company now recommends SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade for servicing most gasoline and flexible fueled vehicles."
"This oil is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy. Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be used in many previous model year vehicles. It is recommended ALL vehicles on the following Vehicle Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20."
And specifically in my case these:
"1992-2002 4.6L Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis"
"1993-1996 5.8L E-Series" (This one spec'd 5W30 from the factory)
----------
So I'm reading through the TSB, and decide to switch the old van to the 5W20 synthetic blend Motorcraft, that was about 3 years ago, and towing my cargo trailer most of the time, with good results. By now, you must know where this is going...During the top end work on the Sport, I was surprised at the tiny passages feeding the lifters through the rockers, as well as the lifters themselves. I also noted there was an improved lifter design on my engine with larger lifter passages, but still pretty small to me. I replaced 7 defective lifters that wouldn't hold pressure during the bleeding and/or had broken plastic rings.
Could I possibly get away with my beloved Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend in the Monty? Would the world stop turning? Would I destroy the bottom end in a desert environment under load? (Ford tested in Arizona at extreme temps btw) What would I do with the space in my garage I used to keep all the different weights of oil?
My Montero spec'd 5W30 SJ/CD, the 5W20 synthetic blend specs GF5/SN which meets/exceeds the prior Montero specs, and if your believe the Ford marketing department their 5W20 synthetic blend is superior to their 5W30.
From bobistheoilguy.com:
"Q. Does the difference in price between Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 and SAE 5W-30 really reflect a better oil?
A: Yes, Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 is a better oil than Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30. However, in response to Dealer Council Ford Motor Company has priced Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil exactly the same as Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil if you purchase it in BULK, 55-GALLON DRUMS, or the 5-QUART JUG. Only individual quart bottles of Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 cost more than Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30. Again, the better base oils, and increased additives such as friction modifiers and anti-oxidants used to formulate for the performance levels in the SAE 5W-20 do cost more, and reflect the significant increase in performance."
Last time I had an OEM order, I got a deal on some factory Mitsubishi oil filters and stocked up. I took the plunge, and have been running the dreaded 5W20 synthetic blend for over a year, and am enjoying quiet startups, extremely low consumption, and oil that reluctantly darkens over time.
Some of you, if you read this far are shaking your head, knowing all is lost, that I've been off my meds too long. Bottom line is use whatever oil you want, but be encouraged that if you take the time to do the oil usage repairs properly, your 3.5L may have lots of life left in it, oh, and I'm pretty pleased with my lazy, price-competitive choice in oil for my Montero.
Back to your regularly scheduled program...and what did this have to do with overlanding anyway?
Last edited:
