Any tips for suspension spacer install?

[GTO71]

Ok, I going to go with a 50mm spacer on my 2002 G, I will do it in the garage on jackstands.

Any quick tips on how to make it easier?........Jackstands on frame, remove wheels, disconnect sway bar, jack up suspension on opposite side, compress coil with tool on spacer side , slide in puck.....alignment after word.....I hear brake hose can get in the way on the front.....tips please??

Take a deep breath, as these are actually very simple machines that are a pleasure to work on, I have found the quality of the metal used on these are superior than anything I have worked on before, they just do not seem to oxidize like a Jeep or Chevy.

Last but not least to put the spacers on top or the bottom? Seems it is mixed on my searches. I was a professional mechanic but that was 20 years ago, so I have become a bit rusty.

 

[merctaf]

I bought two sets of spring spacers, one from Viking Off-road and another pair from Fourbyfourclub.com. They do appear different but do the same thing. I have gotten conflicting information about the installation though. Several have said install the spring spacers on the top and others have said to install them on the bottom of the springs. I am curious to hear what others have to say.

 

[Titus Pullo]

They can be installed top or bottom regardless, however I recommend installing them on the top. Most of my customers have them installed on the top.

 

[merctaf]

They can be installed top or bottom regardless, however I recommend installing them on the top. Most of my customers have them installed on the top.

Titus,
Thank you for your response you suggest the spacers to be installed on the top in the rear too?

 

[Titus Pullo]

yes, I recommend installing them on the tot; however on one of my own trucks I installed the rears at the bottom. Same thing.

 

[merctaf]

What is the benefit of installing them on the top vs the bottom?

 

[merctaf]

Ok, I going to go with a 50mm spacer on my 2002 G, I will do it in the garage on jackstands.

Any quick tips on how to make it easier?........Jackstands on frame, remove wheels, disconnect sway bar, jack up suspension on opposite side, compress coil with tool on spacer side , slide in puck.....alignment after word.....I hear brake hose can get in the way on the front.....tips please??

Take a deep breath, as these are actually very simple machines that are a pleasure to work on, I have found the quality of the metal used on these are superior than anything I have worked on before, they just do not seem to oxidize like a Jeep or Chevy.

Last but not least to put the spacers on top or the bottom? Seems it is mixed on my searches. I was a professional mechanic but that was 20 years ago, so I have become a bit rusty.

Do you have an update?

 

[GTO71]

Few Updates

Yup, a few updates with some pictures. First I decided to update the rims, I found some used AMG Center Cap on Ebay and thought camo green wheels would be good on this truck, as I can not really afford Huchinson wheels and the 18 Inch Toyo's are like new. Also I needed some new rear pads so what a good time to know out a few jobs at once. I decided to not hurry and sit back hang with my dog do some work in the garage.

 

[GTO71]

Some Rear Brakes

Here are a few pics of the rear brake job, I kept the same rotors and used some factory MB Pads with a little cleaning and some high temp paint I did the rotor hats and calibers. Used the factory grease on the sliders for pads and used the same caliber bolts with some thread locker on the bolts, torqued to 30ft pounds.

 

[GTO71]

Project start

A before pic, and just starting the job, these are such nice machines to work on, the build quality and the quality of the metals is the best I have seen. True industrial/military/aviation grade.

 

[GTO71]

More

The fronts were more time consuming. At first I did not want to open my brake lines and I did not want to bother my girlfriend by helping me bleed the brakes.

However I found you need too, or the brake lines will restrict the amount of axle droop needed for fit in the spacers.

I used an extra rubber glove and rubber band up the brake lines when they were disconnected. I used just my standard coil compressors for the job, not really bad job, I would advise having some pneumatic air tools for stuff like the lower shock bolt.......btw I had air compressor take a dump in the middle of the job, what are the odds.

Disconnect the front control arm bolt on the axle tube and it will droop pretty good.

The rears were very simple just disconnect the rear shocks and the compress the coils and use a floor jack to compress the coils easier.

I would recommend this job for all G wagon owners, its a easy job with minimal cussing, broken parts, and no shaved knuckles. Can be all done in a day, but I took two as I like cleaning stuff on the truck and just enjoying the fine Mercedes product.

Also it drives much better over speed bumps with the extra padding between the frame and coils that the spacers provide.

It steers just like factory too no real change in caster angles that I could notice. In the next few days I would not mind putting it in an alignment rack to see how much the angles have changed.

Hope this can help.

 

[Titus Pullo]

the change in angles is minimal - on one of my trucks with about 5-6" lift the caster is still within specs. No caster correction bushings are needed when lifting up to 2" either. However I have them available as well.

 

[merctaf]

I just installed some spring spacers on my as well (in fact, I had the dealership do it yesterday). They also changed out the springs and shocks to give my 2003 G500 a smoother ride. I had them install the spacers on the top of the springs.

 

[Gregoogle]

So I attempted the spacer install today. I started with the front knowing that would be somewhat harder. Unfortunately I could NOT get the bottom of the shock unbolted from the axle. I tried vice grips, holding the shock sleeve, etc with no luck. Anyone have any tips or ideas?

I ended up putting the wheel back on and just calling it a day... ?

 

[shiann]

My 2005 was really difficult to get the lower shock bolt off. First tried using hand tools and it was impossible. I ended up using a 1/2" impact with a small air compressor and it was barely enough, but worked (1/2" harbor freight earthquake xt impact + harbor freight small air compressor). My recommendation would be to bring it to a shop and have them loosen the nuts on the lower front + rear shock bolts, then tighten them back up. Kicking off the rust and having them put on some anti-seize compound will make it a ton easier to do it with hand tools.

Disconnecting the locker + brake lines makes this job a ton easier. Also would be a very good time to replace the lines with longer braided lines.