Axle Confusion

Elvota

Observer
Starting the process of my squaredrop trailer build but am having trouble understanding axle sourcing. Looking to end up around 800lbs, minimilistic design with off road reliability but not rock crawling level.

I would like my trailer to have 31" tires, Toyota 6x5.5" lug pattern and track width similar to my 2006 Tacoma.

Does one order an axle with these specs? Or perhaps convert an existing axle with spacer adapters? Maybe get a Tacoma axle... but that seems spendy and overkill.

If I get a hold of a used trailer, can I upgrade the hubs to a 6x5.5" pattern, or perhaps just add spacer adapters?

For track width, just cut and tube a standard trailer axle and extend?

My budget is low but my fabrication ability is decent, so cheaper options and creative ideas would be most appreciated.

Thanks...
 

opp1

Member
As your going with bigger tires spend the money go with the 3500 lb axle bigger bearings and tubing. hell of a lot cheaper than a busted axle and if you're free tire kill someone
Then use a spring pack that matches the weight of your trailer pod up sprung weight we go 25% over
 

high-and-dry

Active member
I would recommend calling oemparts store in Virgina. Why they told me about a dexter shop I could have the axle delivered to for free. saved me 200 bucks for an hour drive.
below is assuming you want a torsion axle.
Yes you can order 6 lug axle spacing from dexter ( oempartsstore) , if you go with 10inch brakes on a 3500 lb axle you will need a 1/4 spacer if you use 15 inch wheels. But the problem is the lightest dexter can build a 3500lb number 10 axle is 2300.

You would want a number 9 axle for your weight, set at around 1000-1200 lbs. personally I would go 1200, as you may realize its going to be heavier than you thought, or you might want to throw in your cast iron pots.

As for cutting down a frame there is only one reason for that, and thats to have a factory vin. Other wise your looking at almost if not more work to cut down then rebuild it vs just building it.

Where do you live? make a difference on the frame build vs buy.

The easy way to explain the axle thing is message me and we can have a 10 min talk on the phone that will save you hours.
 

Elvota

Observer
I would recommend calling oemparts store in Virgina. Why they told me about a dexter shop I could have the axle delivered to for free. saved me 200 bucks for an hour drive.
below is assuming you want a torsion axle.
Yes you can order 6 lug axle spacing from dexter ( oempartsstore) , if you go with 10inch brakes on a 3500 lb axle you will need a 1/4 spacer if you use 15 inch wheels. But the problem is the lightest dexter can build a 3500lb number 10 axle is 2300.

You would want a number 9 axle for your weight, set at around 1000-1200 lbs. personally I would go 1200, as you may realize its going to be heavier than you thought, or you might want to throw in your cast iron pots.

As for cutting down a frame there is only one reason for that, and thats to have a factory vin. Other wise your looking at almost if not more work to cut down then rebuild it vs just building it.

Where do you live? make a difference on the frame build vs buy.

The easy way to explain the axle thing is message me and we can have a 10 min talk on the phone that will save you hours.

Thanks for the detailed response. I am in AZ, most trailers are rust free if that's your concern.

I will message you when I have some time to talk. Thanks for the offer
 

WeLikeCamping

Explorer
I cannot answer your axle questions -You might check with Lippert. There is also a Trailer Supply Store in Peoria, and I've seen axles there.

I would advise against using Yellow Freight for delivery. I ordered axles a month ago, should have been delivered two weeks ago and the abysmal customer service at YRC Freight said they were in the local delivery hub yesterday, but today says they are lost and they basically don't have time to find them. Oh, and I can file a claim if I want.
 

high-and-dry

Active member
Thanks for the detailed response. I am in AZ, most trailers are rust free if that's your concern.

I will message you when I have some time to talk. Thanks for the offer

Looks like AZ is easy for home builds, if you can weld you can have a great trailer frame for under 1000 bucks. If you buy and want to rework the axle assume your going to spend 500 for the axle and brakes alone. So now your in to it for 500 plus what ever you paid for the frame.

Rust was not a concern on location
 

DCGibbs

Observer
Elvota, you're in Prescott, Go ask questions of the fine folks at ATOverland... They build great expedition trailers, and toppers, and other Off-highway travel stuff. Just sayin, Wish I were closer. DG
 

g_hayduke

New member
If you want brakes, you'll probably need >= 3,000lb axle.

I have a California Teardrops Krawler teardrop. The GVWR is <2500lbs but it has a 3500lb Dexter axle with electric brakes.
 

EMR714

New member
I ended up going with these people for my axle. I also wanted a width mirroring my Tacoma and I had it built for 31” wheels with the 6 lug pattern and brakes.


I got the 3.5k axel figuring my trailer would be about 1200 lbs but I wanted it to be strong enough to handle some decent off road trails without rock crawling. My trailer ended up being 1600lbs dry so I’m glad I had plenty of wiggle room

d59be7c0c357eeba6c343d25af61486e.jpg
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Starting the process of my squaredrop trailer build but am having trouble understanding axle sourcing. Looking to end up around 800lbs, minimilistic design with off road reliability but not rock crawling level.

I would like my trailer to have 31" tires, Toyota 6x5.5" lug pattern and track width similar to my 2006 Tacoma.

Does one order an axle with these specs? Or perhaps convert an existing axle with spacer adapters? Maybe get a Tacoma axle... but that seems spendy and overkill.

If I get a hold of a used trailer, can I upgrade the hubs to a 6x5.5" pattern, or perhaps just add spacer adapters?

For track width, just cut and tube a standard trailer axle and extend?

My budget is low but my fabrication ability is decent, so cheaper options and creative ideas would be most appreciated.

Thanks...
Get exactly what you want built.
Every major center will have a spring and axle shop.
They will custome build to your spec likely cheaper than you can buy a used axle and spacers for.

Mine, 3500# idler to my track cost $207 in Canada.
I had springs and a trailer already, I mostly wanted a track so I could fit my Jeep rims and use the same spare tire

ps, regardless of how light yer trailer is, get a 3500# axle, you can spec lighter springs. A 1000# axle is built to carry a lawn mower around town.

Heres mine, new axle in place, we needed wider, longer fenders so added 1.5" square tube to move them out plus cut them and added 5" to make them longer... works perfect.

DSC_0005.jpg
 
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high-and-dry

Active member
I ended up going with these people for my axle. I also wanted a width mirroring my Tacoma and I had it built for 31” wheels with the 6 lug pattern and brakes.


I got the 3.5k axel figuring my trailer would be about 1200 lbs but I wanted it to be strong enough to handle some decent off road trails without rock crawling. My trailer ended up being 1600lbs dry so I’m glad I had plenty of wiggle room

d59be7c0c357eeba6c343d25af61486e.jpg
1600 dry, mine is 2300 wet.

SrYCEps.jpg


mrBz3lN.jpg
 

high-and-dry

Active member
I may have went overboard on the steel when I built it :D

Thats why I spent hours teaching myself some engineering stuff and using online steel stress calculators.

all the steel in my frame weighs 330 lbs including the tongue, the highest internal stress in the steel is about 1100 psi on the frame, the tongue is about 1800 psi. Mild steel has about a 30k-50k psi strength. Yes I even over built mine with a min of about 20 times margin of safety.

edit I did this assuming the trailer would see a 10 g loading on a rough road, I figured an extra 10g of spare strength was worth it
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Timbren's axle-less line give a lot of flexibility, higher middle clearance

Can sometimes go heavier duty than you need on the steel parts, then use the rubber bits suited to your lower actual loaded weight wet

to reduce the stiff bone rattle ride

etrailer.com is a good vendor
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
Just throwin' this out there. A 3500lb axle is within a fraction of an inch the same diameter as a Dana 44 from the rear of an old CJ2A/3A Willys Flatfender. And most trailer springs are 1.75" wide; again the same width as the springs on the old Willys CJ2A/3A. So if you use the spring plates from the rear of an old Willys Jeep, these spring plates come with a lower shock mount attached. So now all you need to do is fabricate upper spring mounts for shocks on your little trailer. There are plenty of places that sell these spring plates new.

Link: Results for spring plates (kaiserwillys.com)

I believe these are the upper shock mounts I used:

Link: Dorman HELP! Shock Bolt Kit 31001 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

Shocks: Monroe Shocks & Struts 555002 Monroe Gas-Magnum Shocks | Summit Racing (I painted my shocks blue)

And if you want to get fancy, you can use Jeep TJ bumpstop cups and foam bumpstops to fabricate bumpstops for your springs (easily found new). Simple one-bolt installation.
New axle.9.jpgNew axle.10.jpgNew axle.11.jpg

Wanna read more? Mini Harbor Freight (type) Trailer Ultimate Build-Up Thread - JeepForum.com
 
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