Back in a Rover again, mild LR3 build

[gatorgrizz27]

I have a reasonably long history with Land Rovers, starting with a 97 D1 I bought back in college around 10 years ago. With a mild lift and KM2’s I ran around the national forest, and put I lot of miles on it as a DD. I moved out to Austin TX for a few years, and the it ended up wrong side up on a bridge the day before I was supposed to move back to FL.

A buddy of mine about 5 hours south had a 96 D1 that he’d done head gaskets on, but had been unable to get running due to electrical issues. He agreed to swap it for a Glock, so I ran down there and was able to get it sorted out. The plan was to rebuild my wrecked D1 with the body from that one, but the motor locked up on my way back, so I ended up buying a truck from him instead.

Several years later, I bought a D2 with bad head gaskets for $600 and a 95 RRC in the same week for $1,000. The plan this time was to fix the D2 and drive it while I got the RRC driving well, then sell the D2. I didn’t have enough time to dedicate to it, so the RRC ended up moving to a friend’s property where it’s still awaiting its TLC.

The D2 ran fine for awhile after it’s head gasket job, but eventually the coolant tank burst (was a new part) and the engine overheated. I bit the bullet and did the heads again, but it apparently cracked the block and went to the wrecking yard. I bought a Suburban and had been driving it for several years until I decided it was time for a new vehicle and started looking around.

A friend here had a LR3 a little while ago he was toying with selling and I attempted to buy, but he changed his mind and sold it later down the road. I started looking at the LR3’s again and found a clean looking 2008 down in Tampa, listed for $5,700. It had 160k miles on it but looked really clean, since we were headed down there anyways I checked it out and ended up grabbing it for $5,000.

Stornoway gray V8 SE, 18” wheels, with nav, and xenon headlights. No HD package unfortunately, or heated seats, but for the price and condition I wasn’t going to pass it up. They didn’t have the maintenance records unfortunately as it was at a small dealer, but it was a 1 owner car and obviously kept up.



Wife’s 08 RR SC in the background, we have had it for 3.5 years and done nothing but tires/brakes/oil changes and one air strut.

 

[gatorgrizz27]

First steps were rather boring, I replaced a worn armrest with one from eBay, picked up a factory rear cargo mat, and needed to sort out a hitch. It’s really aggravating that these things don’t come with one standard, given that they are $50k plus and rated to tow almost 8,000 lbs. Most people might only put a bike rack on them, but it’s still ridiculous.

I went with the Atlantic British trailer wiring harness, the connectors and plug seem like good quality but the cable tie points didn’t seem to be in the right places. After making a low/reasonable offer on a factory hitch on eBay and not getting it, I looked at aftermarket options. The Rhino hitch and Mitchell hitch are intriguing, but I’m not willing to spend that much. The only one that seemed reasonably priced and maintained any clearance was the Voyager hitch, but I couldn’t get anyone to call me back and I read on here that they might have been discontinued.

I’ll probably end up building what I want in the future, but for the meantime I picked up one for $50 off eBay. The welds are solid and I the Atlantic British hitch doesn’t provide any more clearance or capacity for an extra $100.



The other thing that’s equally aggravating is the plastic cover over the front recovery point. The Range Rovers have about a 3” wide plastic piece that can be permanently removed and it’s barely noticeable. I know they say to remove the LR3 cover before going off road, but there are times where it’s unexpected and you might need to pull someone out of a ditch, boat ramp, etc. The last thing I want to do while stuck in a muddy rut is crawl under there with a screwdriver to remove a dozen fasteners. If you remove the whole panel and leave it that way, it looks like there’s a chance of gravel/sticks/etc being able to get in and damage the lower part of the radiator, so I opted to cut an access hole for the tow ring instead.

I used some masking tape, a hole saw, angle grinder, and sand paper, and ended up with something that looks decent and should work fine. I’ve got some steel shackles in the mail, if they are too tight I’ll order a soft shackle which will do the job.

 

[gatorgrizz27]

Besides those issues which should have been fixed from the factory, the car is brilliant, I absolutely love it. The 4 hr maiden voyage home was uneventful, as was the first out of town trip, so I’m building a lot of faith in it quickly compared to my previous Land Rovers, albeit lacking a bit of the passion. I’m sure eventually we will have our first real fight, so I ordered the IID tool today also.

My original plan for the RRC was to use it as a camping/expedition type rig, set up comfortably enough to travel to NC or TX, but after seeing how well the LR3 just eats up miles, I’m going to utilize it for those trips instead, and build the RRC as more of an offroad/1-2 hour highway drive vehicle.

The plans for this are BFG K02’s, wheel spacers, driving lights, a bit of armor, ARB compressor, some recovery gear, winch (probably receiver mounted), removable roof rack bars, removable rear platform, some minor cosmetic repairs, and service/maintenance.

Depending on how it gets used, I might end up with an auxiliary fuel tank, bumpers, and rear locker in the future, but I think I’d rather stick with the RRC for serious off road use.

 

[John R]

I’m interested to see how your build goes. I’ve just bought a 2013 D4 that’s to replace the 2000 D2 that’s fully fitted out. I haven’t taken the D4 off road yet and I don’t know what to expect with 19” wheels over the 265 70 16 of the D2...

 

[Victory_Overland]

@gatorgrizz27 Congrats on the new addition man! You're gonna love and hate it but love it more and it will be good to you! My 08 LR3 has been the best vehicle I have owned and I keep plugging away at my build.

@John R You are gonna love love love the traction control in that D4. I know many say it makes us lazy drivers, but, I disagree and I believe in using technology to improve capabilities and if you know how to use the TC in the Disco 3/4, you're going to experience an absolutely fantastic OVERLAND vehicle! (notice I did not say "Rock Crawler, Jeep like vehicle, off-road rig, etc...). lol. I believe they are OVERLANDERS and damn good at it!

 

[gatorgrizz27]

I went ahead and ordered some recovery gear after realizing my snatch straps were 15 years old. ARB stuff is a little more expensive but it seems worth it when you consider possible failures. The 3/4” shackles fit great in the front recovery point with the access hole I cut, and work well in the rear one also. It all fits in one of the side bins, it’s a really tight fit but should prevent any rattles.



I also picked up a soft shackle, which should be helpful is someone doesn’t have proper tow points. Thinking it can be used inside a 2” hitch receiver with the pin, rather than slipping the strap over the hitch ball as rednecks are prone to do. The ARB deflator seems like a cool tool also, but I won’t be using it until I get my tires and compressor fitted.

If anyone is looking for a coolant T replacement, here’s what I came up with, as I didn’t want to pay $60 for the aftermarket one I found. Solid brass, 2 parts, lets you bleed it, and $15.

EDGE INDUSTRIAL 3/8" ID X 1/4" Male NPT NPT MIP Brass Hose Barb TEE SPLICER Fitting Fuel / AIR / Water / Oil / Gas / WOG (Qty 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

EDGE INDUSTRIAL 3/8" ID X 1/4" Male NPT NPT MIP Brass Hose Barb TEE SPLICER Fitting Fuel / AIR / Water / Oil / Gas / WOG (Qty 1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Anderson Metals 56108 Brass Pipe Fitting, Cap, 1/4" NPT Female Pipe: Industrial Pipe Fittings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Anderson Metals 56108 Brass Pipe Fitting, Cap, 1/4" NPT Female Pipe: Industrial Pipe Fittings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

I really need to see what I can find on maintenance records for this thing, as it’s had a lot done on it. The coolant T has been replaced with another factory one, the thermostat housing and air filter are brand new, lower control arm bushings and hubs are all in great shape. I went to change the rear diff oil, but it looked perfect, lighter than honey and no smell, so I left it alone. I was hoping it had an AMK compressor fitted, but it’s still got the Hitachi. No idea if it’s a newer one or the original, it looked really clean though.

I’ve heard some people have had difficulty getting maintence records from the dealers, and I don’t know that carfax would show much, any suggestions?

Last thing for now was finally finding a factory grooved 10 spoke wheel on eBay for a reasonable price, so I can have a proper spare to rotate in when I get the AT’s.

 

[Ray_G]

For the sake of discussion, worth grabbing a kinetic rope to use in concert with the snatch strap. Likewise also worth grabbing several soft shackles (I've started getting longer ones to use in odd applications).

Specific to the kinetic rope, we're starting to use them more and more (even in concert with winching) as overall it actually reduces the potential for bad things to happen.
r-
Ray

 

[John R]

For the sake of discussion, worth grabbing a kinetic rope to use in concert with the snatch strap. Likewise also worth grabbing several soft shackles (I've started getting longer ones to use in odd applications).

Specific to the kinetic rope, we're starting to use them more and more (even in concert with winching) as overall it actually reduces the potential for bad things to happen.
r-
Ray

By kinetic rope, do you mean winch extension strap? Or is it something else?

 

[gatorgrizz27]

I was under the impression that a snatch strap like the ARB (stretches and is desinged to use momentum) functioned the same as a kinetic rope, in comparison to static straps like tree savers, winch extenders, crane slings, etc. What’s the difference?

For anyone interested, the ARB soft shackle with the damage protector will fit inside a 2” receiver with the pin installed. This is probably the best solution if you find yourself likely to pull or be pulled by a vehicle without proper recovery points.

I’m looking at installing a CB (probably the Cobra 75WXST that has all the controls in the handset). Under the driver’s seat would be the ideal location, as I can tuck the handset in there as well and then place it in the cup holder while in use. The power seat fuse is a 30A circuit, does anyone see an issue with tapping into that and adding a smaller inline fuse to run the CB? Basically wondering if the seat has a sensitive ECU that might be messed up, I don’t have the memory seats. I’d like the ability to use the CB with the ignition off also, not for any extended period, but to check the weather briefly, etc, which this would allow.

 

[Ray_G]

By kinetic rope, do you mean winch extension strap? Or is it something else?

No, I meant a kinetic rope (http://www.masterpull.com/7-8-super-yanker-kinetic-recovery-rope-28-500-lbs/)

The ARB strap is a solid unit, though it will only extend to 20% (and has a breaking strength of 24,000 if one got the 3"), whereas a kinetic rope generally is a few thousand lbs more, with 30% extension. So it is essentially stronger, and gentler on the recovery. Both have their place mind you.

For the sake of discussion I would not use the ebay 2" hitch for recovery-that point on the truck above it is where I'd put a hard (or soft) shackle. If you have an integrated hitch like a D1, using a softie with a pin works-but I'd still suggest getting the receiver hitch.

CB would likely work fine under there, and the Cobra is a decent enough unit but I'd suggest if you are going to invest in comms-go GMRS, less antenna with better range for most, better clarity, small form factor (the Midland 275 is basically the GMRS version of the 75WXST)

 

[gatorgrizz27]

No, I meant a kinetic rope (http://www.masterpull.com/7-8-super-yanker-kinetic-recovery-rope-28-500-lbs/)

The ARB strap is a solid unit, though it will only extend to 20% (and has a breaking strength of 24,000 if one got the 3"), whereas a kinetic rope generally is a few thousand lbs more, with 30% extension. So it is essentially stronger, and gentler on the recovery. Both have their place mind you.

For the sake of discussion I would not use the ebay 2" hitch for recovery-that point on the truck above it is where I'd put a hard (or soft) shackle. If you have an integrated hitch like a D1, using a softie with a pin works-but I'd still suggest getting the receiver hitch.

CB would likely work fine under there, and the Cobra is a decent enough unit but I'd suggest if you are going to invest in comms-go GMRS, less antenna with better range for most, better clarity, small form factor (the Midland 275 is basically the GMRS version of the 75WXST)

Yes, I don’t intend to use my receiver hitch for recovery, I was talking about on another vehicle. I’m aware of the factory LR3 recovery points.

I tend to think the rating on the ARB strap is probably quite conservative, based on my experiences from high school. Stuff like an F-250 diesel on 36” Super swampers stuck where there was water coming halfway up the doors inside. It was recovered by an F-350 dually on mud terrains with 60’ of strap, and hitting the end of it at full throttle. We did that sort of thing a lot.

I’ve been reading up on the radio stuff, as I’m quite ignorant. My uses would be #1: communicating with another vehicle I’m running trails with, very short range stuff. Maybe a couple hundred yards apart, up to half a mile or so if someone takes a wrong turn. #2: being able to signal for help if required, there are a lot of hunters/guys just riding around the woods up here and I’d imagine CB is still the most common in my area. #3: pairing it with a handheld unit in the event that someone needs to walk out to find help. This is probably unlikely, but would be nice to have, especially since I might buy a handheld anyways in the event that a vehicle in our group doesn’t have a radio.

 

[John R]

When you mount the UHF can you post some pics please? I’m looking at spaces to mount mine too, although I’m thinking of a remote mike model so I can hide the unit somewhere and just mount the mike.

Not sure if you’ve thought about an air compressor, but I think an aironboard model will fit in the box that holds the ECU

 

[Ray_G]

When you mount the UHF can you post some pics please? I’m looking at spaces to mount mine too, although I’m thinking of a remote mike model so I can hide the unit somewhere and just mount the mike.

Not sure if you’ve thought about an air compressor, but I think an aironboard model will fit in the box that holds the ECU

In my sig line the 'Saqr' is hyperlinked to a 50pg long build thread for my truck that's on here. Has a ton of pics, including where I have the GMRS (UHF) mounted, where my VHF is mounted, where my CB used to be mounted till I got rid of it, and a number of other things.

I'm belt & suspenders with OBA; having a compressor under the hood, driver's side, forward (near the windshield washer fill tube and such). It nests under the noco dual battery charger. The driver's side airbox has the aux battery in it so that space was taken. There's a powertank in the back as a secondary OBA (better for air tools).

r-
Ray

 

[gatorgrizz27]

I will post some pics when I get to the CB install, I’m still doing research at this point. I agree that the GMRS is a better product, but unfortunately with radios, you need someone to talk TO, and I’m fairly certain that CB is still king around here. This is the unit I’m looking at, there is a plastic cover under the driver’s seat with plenty of room behind it as well as a power source. I wouldn’t hard mount the handset anywhere, I would just set it in the cup holder while in use.

Cobra 75 WX ST

The 75 WX ST is an ultra compact hide-away full feature CB radio. Shop for Cobra C 75 WX ST Handheld Recreational CB Radio and other CB Radios at Cobra.com

www.cobra.com

The plan is to install an ARB heavy duty single air compressor in the driver’s side box with the brake master cylinder, I won’t buy it until after I do tires though.

I got an AUX adapter in that I found in Ray_G’s build thread, thanks! My car has the factory aux input but the jack was damaged where it only plays the R half of Stereo unless you put pressure on it. I pulled the unit apart but the jack is soldered directly to a circuit board with a bunch of pins, so it doesn’t look easily replaceable.

Land Rover AUX adapter lead 3.5mm jack in car radio iPod MP3 adaptor CTVLRX003 z | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Land Rover AUX adapter lead 3.5mm jack in car radio iPod MP3 adaptor CTVLRX003 z at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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One thing I really wanted was the ability to both charge a device as well as play music at the same time through the Apple lightning connector. I finally found this, which should do the trick when connected with that aux adapter I linked above.

Amazon.com: Aoais7505 - iSimple IS7505 Audio Playback Amp; Charging Cable with RCA Output for Apple Devices with Lightning (Tm) Connector, 6': Computers & Accessories

Amazon.com: Aoais7505 - iSimple IS7505 Audio Playback Amp; Charging Cable with RCA Output for Apple Devices with Lightning (Tm) Connector, 6': Computers & Accessories

www.amazon.com

I’ll work on installing that whenever the cable arrives, at this point I think I’m going to drill a small hole in front of the parking brake switch and run it out of there. In other news, this showed up today. Really excited to play with it some this week.



I also bought a sheet of plywood to start building a cargo platform/drawer system, but I’m worried about it being in the way a bunch. I’ve come up with something I plan to build instead that will be super cool if I can get it all to work, it’s still in the design phase though.

 

[gatorgrizz27]

Any thoughts on if a dual battery setup is worth it if a guy isn’t going to run a fridge? The plan for electrical mods is a multi-mount winch that will likely not see very much use, some driving lights wired through the Land Rover auxiliary switch, a trailer brake controller, CB radio, and ARB single air compressor. Basically everything will only be used with the engine running, but I know these are electrically sensitive so I don’t want to piss off the electrical system fairies.