Building a Better and Tougher Awning

VidereStudios

New member
I often head out to Eastern Oregon with a bunch of buddies to hunt and explore the various nooks and crannies of the desert on our dirt bikes. We will set up a basecamp with our trucks and rig up a bunch of tarps and awnings to keep the weather at bay. We have really had to overcome a few obstacles in the history of the deployment of our awning setups. High winds, lack of trees, hard ground, and ease of setup and take down have all been issues at one time or another. Taking the lessons learned from these experiences, I knew what I wanted in an awning system for my 100 series Land Cruiser.

The awnings we can get in the States seem to mostly matriculate out of South Africa or Australia. Both excellent places to perfect the design and construction of an awning. However, sometimes all the elements of a design don’t translate well in actual use. I can appreciate the simplicity of most of the awnings out there. I think there are lots of great designs provided by various manufacturers, but Overland Journal’s review of vehicle-mounted awnings in 2010 showed the weaknesses of the majority of the awning systems out there. I ended up deciding that the simple designs (but heavily dependent on legs and guy lines) of the Eezi-Awn’s, ARB, etc. wasn’t necessarily what I was looking for. I wanted a free-standing system. So it was either a smaller rectangular awning like the Hannibal / Eezi-Awn Swift designs or a bigger coverage awning (Foxwing, Bat / Manta, or the awesome BunduAwn). Both systems are sort of the anti-thesis of each other…great awnings, different usages.

Which brings me to the other major requirement…the ability to resist high winds. The Hannibal is well-known for being one of the most robust awnings out there and very able to deal with high winds. I wasn’t able to find any reviews on the Swift, but I imagine it can’t be much different. The bigger, 270 degree awnings are a different matter. With so much square footage of coverage, they really have to be secured to the ground in high winds. The BunduAwn seems to be the best of the bunch of those with a rating of 60 kmph, or almost 40 mph. However, the necessity of guy lines and poles wasn’t what I was looking for. The decision was pretty easy to focus on acquiring a Hannibal awning.

Even though Hannibal stopped importing awnings back in 2012 or 2013, one or two would invariably show up for sale in one of several overland / off-road forums. I decided to just keep a lookout for one. Finally, one popped up here for sale. I didn’t hesitate much and was able to secure the awning for purchase. The awning was only a 1.9m version, so that was my reason for being hesitant. I didn’t think it would work out too well on my 100. Anyway, I pulled the trigger and sent the PayPal payment. It arrived quickly and I started examining it. It was very nicely built and quite robust, however, I could easily see after making some measurements that it wasn’t going to be adequate for my needs. I really needed at least a 2.2m awning. I mounted the awning in the warehouse at one of my jobs and got down to the business of seeing how it really worked and if I could somehow utilize the best elements of the design in my own awning. My conclusions are that it is very doable; I just need to solve three major problems.

One major issue that will have to be dealt with is the interface of the awning brackets with the particular roof rack I eventually turn out to use. Hannibal racks are even more elusive than the awnings, so I know it will have to be a custom bracket. Right now the FrontRunner Slimline II and the Eezi-Awn K9 racks are at the top of my short list. So I will have to figure out that connection...I am hoping to pick up one of those racks on a post-Thanksgiving sale and then fit the bracket to that. Another major issue is the acquisition of a water-resistant and UV-resistant fabric and the actual sewing of the awning material itself. I could not find much of any information on the particular polycottons used, so I will have to figure out that element. Finally, the smallest issue is dealing with the special radiused square tubing that is used in the construction of the awning frame and the hardware used during deployment. I will have to sort all that out.

This will be an ongoing winter project and I hope to have updates every week or so as I get things figured out and acquired. Looking forward to hearing your feedback and suggestions to make this awning a bit above and beyond what is currently available.
 

VidereStudios

New member
So here's an overall picture of the Hannibal bracket. There are two of these, one on each side of the awning. Both are identical. 3/8" aluminum...welded, not bent. The bolt is the pivot for the awning arms.

Bracket1.jpg

This next photo shows the other side of the bracket shows the clamping portion of the bracket with the socket head M6 bolts...the bracket is tapped on the other side. The two pieces clamp together around the frame of the roof rack. This will be customized to fit either the Slimline II or the K9 rack.

Bracket2.jpg

Finally, this picture shows the bracket with the awning arm assembled into it. Hannibal used polyurethane bushings on the pivot portion of the arm...I will use Delrin as an alternative. Hole in the top edge of the bracket is for the rear tube that the awning fabric is attached to.

Bracket3.jpg
 
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VidereStudios

New member
Finally, some details regarding the awning itself. The leading edge of the awning with the front tube installed. The awning material was a replacement for the original as it had worn out on the previous owner. I think I will try to double stitch the binding on the four major edges. Also shown is the catch that inserts into the end of the awning arms.

Awning1.jpg

This photo shows the hook and loop attachments that secure the long, tail edge of the awning. This wraps over the majority of the material of the awning itself. One of the major detriments of the Hannibal awning is the exposed material and ends of the awning. I think I will sew up an alternative cover out of a more robust material to protect the awning better.

Awning2.jpg

This final photo shows the rolled up awning on one end as it terminates at the the aluminum bracket. This leading edge at the front of the Land Cruiser is pretty susceptible to damage from branches, etc. and it allows water enter and travel down the length of the awning. The planned cover should help alleviate that.

Awning3.jpg
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
I have the same vehicle and the same desire as you. So, I am guessing you're gonna lengthen this one or hold out for another? I think the Hannibal's are the best I have seen out there yet.
 

VidereStudios

New member
I have the same vehicle and the same desire as you. So, I am guessing you're gonna lengthen this one or hold out for another? I think the Hannibal's are the best I have seen out there yet.

While I tentatively thought about holding on to this one, I decided to turn it around and use the funds from selling it for the construction of my own. I thought about holding out for a 2.2m Hannibal, but they are just so rare on the used market. Plus, the major hurdle is that I want to have an awning coming off the back of the 100 to cover the small kitchen area. So I really need two awnings...a 2.2m and a 1.4m. I decided probably the best bet is to build my own, so hence this thread.

Next steps are really getting a rack for the 100 so I can figure out the brackets...that should happen later this month. Then I need to figure out the exact fabric to use for the awning material itself. Right now I am working on a direct prototype based on the Hannibal...from there I will modify to make it even stronger.
 

VidereStudios

New member
I'm very interested in what you come up with. I'm in the same situation needing a similar awning.

I have some really good ideas about how to make this home-brew awning even better than the Hannibal. I have talked extensively with owners of the FrontRunner and K9 racks as well as the guy I originally purchased the Hannibal awning from. It will be interesting to see how this develops. Hopefully there will be some progress this week!
 

VidereStudios

New member
My plans for this initial awning setup is to have a side awning for taking driving breaks, stopping for lunch, having protected access to the vehicle while the rear awning is more for protection during food preparation and cooking (though that may move under the side awning if I pull out the table). These two awnings will be my phase one goal.

Here is a photo of a rear Hannibal awning on an 80 series:

Phase1Awning1.jpg

Here is a photo of one on a Land Rover stowed away (though I think it is better to store the arms in the canvas):

Phase1Awning2.jpg

Finally, a picture of both a side and a rear awning deployed:

Phase1Awning3.jpg
 

VidereStudios

New member
Phase two will be to add sidewalls to the side awning so that there can be a better place to change clothes as well as offer even better protection from the elements. These would only be deployed for longer stays and would obviously have to be staked at the bottom.

Closed:

Phase2Awning1.jpg

Opened up:

Phase2Awning2.jpg

Here is a picture I found of the attachment zipper for the sidewalls on a Hannibal 2.4m awning. I know Hannibal also used grommets for the attachment of the side walls, but I don’t know what the current method is that Hannibal uses. Does anyone know what the existing attachment method is? Grommets or zipper? I would think that grommets would be easier to attach and definitely more robust (but may take a little bit longer to setup). Any feedback or ideas on this subject?

Phase2Awning3.jpg

Phase three will be possibly creating a triangular awning piece that can connect to the side awning and the rear awning to create a covered space between the two (similar to Foxwing, etc.). Not sure about this one yet though. May call it good at phase two.
 

BuckBlue90

New member
In talking with Hannibal they now use hooks and grommets for the sidewalls. Quicker and less chance of snagging. I think now they just use a lightweight plastic tarp type material for the sidewalls.

The reason I was talking to Hannibal was to see if they could supply a replacement top. They seemed receptive but have since gone quiet.

The fabric (used by most SA tent and awning manufacturers) is Dynaproof from Oz. Has anyone come across a North America stockiest so I can stitch one up?
If possible I would like to stay with Dynaproof as it is so robust. Our SA Campmor tent in now 12 years old, used often, watertight but breathable, and stands up to accidental abuse, and African thorns!

Eric.
 

VidereStudios

New member
In talking with Hannibal they now use hooks and grommets for the sidewalls. Quicker and less chance of snagging. I think now they just use a lightweight plastic tarp type material for the sidewalls.

The reason I was talking to Hannibal was to see if they could supply a replacement top. They seemed receptive but have since gone quiet.

The fabric (used by most SA tent and awning manufacturers) is Dynaproof from Oz. Has anyone come across a North America stockiest so I can stitch one up?
If possible I would like to stay with Dynaproof as it is so robust. Our SA Campmor tent in now 12 years old, used often, watertight but breathable, and stands up to accidental abuse, and African thorns!

Eric.

Hey Eric,

Thanks so much for the information regarding the attachment of the side walls. I agree with their conclusions...the idea of trying to attach the walls with a zipper is way more troublesome than the hooks and grommets. I am trying to find an equivalent fabric as well. There are a couple of specialist fabric places in Portland and Seattle that I am going to go try and visit this month to find a hopefully exact match for the Dynaproof fabric. That is really the biggest hurdle I have left...the metal side of the awning is coming together nicely.

Please let me know if you find something. I will share my findings on here later in the month after I make a trip up there.

Petr
 

BuckBlue90

New member
Thanks Petr. Will continue the search for the Dynaproof. May even have some mailed in from Oz.
A problem I discovered with the Hannibal brackets. Mine had 6 x 1mm threaded holes. A fine thread in aluminum.......nuts. Having been on and off a few times, a couple eventually stripped. So do yourself a favor if you have this thread size. Insert some Helicoils. 6 x 1 are available so you can use the exiting socket head screws. Now the screw will be bearing on the Helicoil instead of the aluminum. When I inserted the Helicoils I added a dab of threadlocker. Might also assist with dissimilar galv corrosion.
Eric/
 

VidereStudios

New member
Thanks Petr. Will continue the search for the Dynaproof. May even have some mailed in from Oz.
A problem I discovered with the Hannibal brackets. Mine had 6 x 1mm threaded holes. A fine thread in aluminum.......nuts. Having been on and off a few times, a couple eventually stripped. So do yourself a favor if you have this thread size. Insert some Helicoils. 6 x 1 are available so you can use the exiting socket head screws. Now the screw will be bearing on the Helicoil instead of the aluminum. When I inserted the Helicoils I added a dab of threadlocker. Might also assist with dissimilar galv corrosion.
Eric/

Great idea...didn't think of that one. I'll do that on the second prototype as my first go around is almost done.
 

paranoid56

Adventurer
looking at the arms they also look to be made from aluminium (based on the welds) do you know the size and thickness of those?
 

pcut

Adventurer
Impressive. I'm also looking for a legless/ropeless awning. Have you looked at the Alu Cab from SA? Looks great to me.
Wish I had your skills and confidence.
One other suggestion would be for a hard enclosure rather than a cover.
 

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