Building a Dream - "Gimli II" (MB 1225 AF)

bomonster

New member
My wife and I have been dreaming of a full-time overlanding life for a long time. After years of planning and saving, this is the year we're finally making it a reality.

We're not strangers to adventure travel. We've tackled overland traverses across Alaska, Patagonia, Bolivia, Newfoundland, Iceland, and the USA. But these were always short trips – 2-3 weeks of rushing through incredible landscapes. We craved more – the freedom and flexibility of full-time exploration.

Over the past decade, we've learned a lot about what we want in an overlanding vehicle. We've graduated from camping in sedans to a 100 Series Land Cruiser and now to our current setup with an off-road trailer. We've realized that there's no perfect time to embark on this journey. The best time is now, while we're healthy and can enjoy it to the fullest.

Our Goal: To travel full-time for the next 15-17 years in a comfortable and capable vehicle. We don't need a palace on wheels, but we want something that will age gracefully with us.

Our Strategy: We're taking a unique approach to our build. We plan to source a former fire engine in Germany – a 1990 Mercedes-Benz 1225 AF with a powerful 14.6-liter V8. We'll have the structural work, including a "Short Doka" conversion, completed in Germany before shipping a weather-resistant shell to the US. We'll then handle the interior build ourselves.

The Fire Engine Spec:
  • Base Truck: 1990 Mercedes-Benz 1225 AF
  • Engine: OM 422 V8, 14.6 liters
  • Mileage: Incredibly low at approximately 16,000 miles
  • Wheelbase: 365 cm
  • Upgrades in progress:
    • The Truck will be known as "Gimli II" henceforth
    • New rear brakes/Front ones are great
    • Air tanks inside the frame
    • Additional air tank for auxiliary systems
    • New batteries
    • Heated fuel filters (SEPA SWK-2000/5-50)
    • Faster axle gear ratio (43:10)
    • Upgraded 110A alternator
    • New, synchronized injectors for improved performance (300hp)
    • Short DOKA and Complete cabin strip-down and repaint
    • 46-inch Super Single tires (385/85/R20) with two spares
    • Underbody protection with 80mm alubutyle
    • LED Lights
    • Marquart Shocks
    • Parabolic spring upgrade
    • 90 cm x 60 cm pass-through
This is just the beginning of our adventure. We'll be documenting our entire journey – from sourcing the fire engine in Germany to the final touches on the interior build and beyond. Stay tuned for more updates!

And last but not the least sharing our dilemmas and learning from folks who have done it.
 

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bomonster

New member
Stuck on the subframe decision. We've been pouring over "Building Your Own Camper" by Wigglesworth and "Self Built Motor Homes" by Ulrich Dolde, but still can't decide what's best for us.

Our Needs:
  • No hardcore off-roading: We're not into rock crawling or sand dune bashing.
  • Focus on remote travel: We plan to explore places like Ruta 3 Norte in Peru and the Inner Mongolian steppe.
  • Vehicle: 1990 Mercedes-Benz 1225 AF with a shorter wheelbase (365cm) compared to the standard 420cm.
  • Body: 16-foot box made of GRP, Impact Shield, and PU foam sandwich (60mm walls, 100mm bottom).
  • Tire Rack/Carrier: in the back with Bike Carrier approx. 1500 lbs.
The Dilemma:
  • Spring-loaded frame-on-frame: We understand that this typically allows for around 15cm of articulation.
  • We have a shorter wheelbase: Will this make the chassis inherently stiffer? Meaning chassis will allow for no less articulation which is good I think.
  • 3-point vs. 4-point subframe: We're leaning towards 3 or 4 points for extra articulation and torsion resistance, especially for challenging terrain.
I'd love to hear your thoughts!
  • What type of subframe do you have on your build?
  • How important is articulation to you for overland traverse?
  • If you were to do it again, would you change your subframe choice?
 

Neil

Observer
We have been on the road in our 1017 in South, Central and North America since 2017. We are currently in Guatemala.

Our Vehicle is on a Rail on Rail spring loaded system and has performed perfectly on some pretty bad roads.

Three and four point pivoting systems are great when they work well. However, they are also very easy to get wrong, especially when constructed by the home engineer.

I have seen many vehicles on the road with this set up that have had endless modifications such as numerous dampers installed because they were too sloppy . We have even seen them swaying all over the place just coming out of a roundabout.

My advice would be, that if you opt for such as system , take professional mechanical advice to get it right

Neil
 
Last edited:

bomonster

New member
We have been on the road in our 1017 in South, Central and North America since 2017. We are currently in Guatemala.

Our Vehicle is on a Rail on Rail spring loaded system and has performed perfectly on some pretty bad roads.

Three and four point pivoting systems are great when they work well. However, they are also very easy to get wrong, especially when constructed by the home engineer.

I have seen many vehicles on the road with this set up that have had endless modifications such as numerous dampers installed because they were too sloppy . We have even seen them swaying all over the place just coming out of a roundabout.

My advice would be, that if you opt for such as system , take professional mechanical advice to get it right

Neil
Thanks for sharing . I did go though the entire forum and books having this practical insight is great. Leaning towards simple is better paradigm. We are mostly settled on Rail on Rail spring loaded mechanism. I am going to call it solved for now :). On to the next decision.
 

gator70

Active member
My wife and I have been dreaming of a full-time overlanding life for a long time. After years of planning and saving, this is the year we're finally making it a reality.

We're not strangers to adventure travel. We've tackled overland traverses across Alaska, Patagonia, Bolivia, Newfoundland, Iceland, and the USA. But these were always short trips – 2-3 weeks of rushing through incredible landscapes. We craved more – the freedom and flexibility of full-time exploration.

Over the past decade, we've learned a lot about what we want in an overlanding vehicle. We've graduated from camping in sedans to a 100 Series Land Cruiser and now to our current setup with an off-road trailer. We've realized that there's no perfect time to embark on this journey. The best time is now, while we're healthy and can enjoy it to the fullest.

Our Goal: To travel full-time for the next 15-17 years in a comfortable and capable vehicle. We don't need a palace on wheels, but we want something that will age gracefully with us.

Our Strategy: We're taking a unique approach to our build. We plan to source a former fire engine in Germany – a 1990 Mercedes-Benz 1225 AF with a powerful 14.6-liter V8. We'll have the structural work, including a "Short Doka" conversion, completed in Germany before shipping a weather-resistant shell to the US. We'll then handle the interior build ourselves.

The Fire Engine Spec:
  • Base Truck: 1990 Mercedes-Benz 1225 AF
  • Engine: OM 422 V8, 14.6 liters
  • Mileage: Incredibly low at approximately 16,000 miles
  • Wheelbase: 365 cm
  • Upgrades in progress:
    • The Truck will be known as "Gimli II" henceforth
    • New rear brakes/Front ones are great
    • Air tanks inside the frame
    • Additional air tank for auxiliary systems
    • New batteries
    • Heated fuel filters (SEPA SWK-2000/5-50)
    • Faster axle gear ratio (43:10)
    • Upgraded 110A alternator
    • New, synchronized injectors for improved performance (300hp)
    • Short DOKA and Complete cabin strip-down and repaint
    • 46-inch Super Single tires (385/85/R20) with two spares
    • Underbody protection with 80mm alubutyle
    • LED Lights
    • Marquart Shocks
    • Parabolic spring upgrade
    • 90 cm x 60 cm pass-through
This is just the beginning of our adventure. We'll be documenting our entire journey – from sourcing the fire engine in Germany to the final touches on the interior build and beyond. Stay tuned for more updates!

And last but not the least sharing our dilemmas and learning from folks who have done it.

I almost went this route, importing a low milage firetruck from Germany

Keep us posted
 

gator70

Active member
Stuck on the subframe decision. We've been pouring over "Building Your Own Camper" by Wigglesworth and "Self Built Motor Homes" by Ulrich Dolde, but still can't decide what's best for us.

Our Needs:
  • No hardcore off-roading: We're not into rock crawling or sand dune bashing.
  • Focus on remote travel: We plan to explore places like Ruta 3 Norte in Peru and the Inner Mongolian steppe.
  • Vehicle: 1990 Mercedes-Benz 1225 AF with a shorter wheelbase (365cm) compared to the standard 420cm.
  • Body: 16-foot box made of GRP, Impact Shield, and PU foam sandwich (60mm walls, 100mm bottom).
  • Tire Rack/Carrier: in the back with Bike Carrier approx. 1500 lbs.
The Dilemma:
  • Spring-loaded frame-on-frame: We understand that this typically allows for around 15cm of articulation.
  • We have a shorter wheelbase: Will this make the chassis inherently stiffer? Meaning chassis will allow for no less articulation which is good I think.
  • 3-point vs. 4-point subframe: We're leaning towards 3 or 4 points for extra articulation and torsion resistance, especially for challenging terrain.
I'd love to hear your thoughts!
  • What type of subframe do you have on your build?
  • How important is articulation to you for overland traverse?
  • If you were to do it again, would you change your subframe choice?

I am in the middle of that and have all cad drawings
 

gator70

Active member
When I consider all this there was a great option for the habitat. A used reefer box. I have the brand and looked at a few under $5k, 16ft long. They had 4 " of insulation in all surfaces from the factory. Many brands did not work due to rear door. But one did.

They were used for cold storage of vegetables and had steel beams under the floor making the subframe a easier build.

The only reason I did not go that route was I did a crew cab, cabover, with a over the cab queen bed design, which limited the habitat on frame length to 14ft.
 

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