Buying FJ60: What to look for?

[ntsqd]

I had thought that there was an existing thread on what to look for, but I'm only finding things in snippets. Aside from the usual mechanical stuff, what else?

So far I have:

Check for rust in the inside of the rear of the frame rails and the inside of the rear shock cross member.

Check rust in doors, around window openings, etc.

 

[Sloan]

Make sure the power steering pump hasn't been leaking on the smog pump. Also check all the chrome trim for rust.

 

[archtimb]

Rear frame, inside the C-channels, there are "stiffener" channels. Look for delamination caused by corrosion. Not difficult to make new ones, but a real job to replace. They are riveted through and include some body mounts or some such. I can't recall what mounts are involved...may have only been the rear stabilizer that a 60 may or may not have.

In your locale I would also check for intact and operational smog gear.

Mitch

 

[BiG BoB]

Rust around the gutters in the roof, they tend to rust from the inside out, so by the time you see it, its rooted.

Do the FJ's have the same transfer case / gearbox problem as the HJ's, whereby the oil pumps from one to the other and doesnt return? If they do check that its been fixed.

Sean

 

[KMR]

The only thing you can't take care of is the rust.
For all the mechanicals, just plan on spending money to fix them up right and you wont be disappointed.

 

[lovetoski]

If you live in an area that does smog testing, you will potentially save a lot of grief if you find a truck that passes already. It can be a pain to chase down problems with 20+ yr old smog equipment.

As others have mentioned, check for rust extensively. Consider pulling off the rear qtr panels to look at the inside of the rear wheel wells.

Check for bondo - can be a sign of a bad wreck, which might make you want to check to see if the frame's straight.

An engine that has even compression (125 is factory min) is really nice. +/- 5 between cyclinders is ideal.

How does it feel when you drive it? Does it feel beat, or has it been taken care of?

No rust, even compression, drives and stops straight, all mechanicals work OK, then it's good to go. (ie, you'll have work to do, but it will be worth it).

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Rust bubbles around the windshield gasket!

Mine had little ones (i thought) and when i broke the windshield by accident (long story) and remove it, there were gaping holes under there! :yikes:

 

[ntsqd]

In KA the PO is responsible for the smog test done at transfer of title. I wouldn't buy one that the current owner won't smog. I'm well versed in what that headache can turn into. If the one I buy isn't already a V8 (current candidate is not), it eventually will be. So if the PO "fudged" things to get it passed that should give me 2 years to get the swap done & labeled.

Thanks for all of the responses.

 

[AndrewP]

As a 6 year 60 owner, what I would tell you is to look for an original truck, with a minimum of rust. That's it. Everything else is fixable/details. Buy in a rust free state. 60s are pretty cheap so set a budget and get a nice one with NO RUST. I would probably not buy an 81-82, only because if you want to do a 5 speed swap, the t-case may lack certain atributes you will want. These trucks are Toyota's best effort in my opinion.

 

[Mike S]

No Rust

Intact smog equipment

Stock engine, carb, and exhaust manifolds

Good compression

clean interior - they are expensive to fix.

I recommend that you go to the FAQ on the 60 Series page on IH8MUD.com - tons of info and a lot of new owner questions answered.

Mike S

 

[BiG BoB]

Of course if you're going on the hunt for a great 60 Series, why not go one step further and step up to a HJ60??

Sean

 

[ntsqd]

Of course if you're going on the hunt for a great 60 Series, why not go one step further and step up to a HJ60??

Sean

No interest in a diesel. Odds of finding one reasonably priced in So. CA USA are pretty remote anyway.

I've been crawling all over the 60 series portion of Mud. I'm not finding info, yet, like are they all the same axle shaft splines or are the fronts & rears different. I'm sure it's there somewhere, just need to find it.

As long as the six runs reasonably well, by ear & eye, I don't care beyond that. Long term plan is to go to a 350/700R4 combo. What I haven't decided on is if I should keep the stock t/c with it's highish low range ratio, or use the NP271 with it's 2.7:1 ratio. One 60 that I missed out on had this engine/trans combo, and then some sort of doubler in front of the stock t/c. That is appealing, but I don't know what doubler it was. Buying a doubler that does the adapter's job is very attractive.
I do expect to go to at least one ARB & possibly two. I don't expect to be changing the axle ratio as I'm planning on only 33-10.5's or 255/85-R16's with the barest minimum lift to clear those.

Use is camping trips with up to 4 adults & gear, towing the Baja out to the deserts for chase duty, occasional chase duty (Vegas to Reno is a biggie), etc. I've been doing this (except the towing the Baja part since it's still a WiP) with my '91 Suburban. A recent trip thru Death Valley and the Mojave Road with the Sub highlighted just how big it is. Never had an issue, but at times it was tiring to drive. That Lanfair stretch thru the cacti & spiny yucca really worked me hard.

 

[Mike S]

No interest in a diesel. Odds of finding one reasonably priced in So. CA USA are pretty remote anyway.

I've been crawling all over the 60 series portion of Mud. I'm not finding info, yet, like are they all the same axle shaft splines or are the fronts & rears different. I'm sure it's there somewhere, just need to find it.

As long as the six runs reasonably well, by ear & eye, I don't care beyond that. Long term plan is to go to a 350/700R4 combo. What I haven't decided on is if I should keep the stock t/c with it's highish low range ratio, or use the NP271 with it's 2.7:1 ratio. One 60 that I missed out on had this engine/trans combo, and then some sort of doubler in front of the stock t/c. That is appealing, but I don't know what doubler it was. Buying a doubler that does the adapter's job is very attractive.
I do expect to go to at least one ARB & possibly two. I don't expect to be changing the axle ratio as I'm planning on only 33-10.5's or 255/85-R16's with the barest minimum lift to clear those.

Use is camping trips with up to 4 adults & gear, towing the Baja out to the deserts for chase duty, occasional chase duty (Vegas to Reno is a biggie), etc. I've been doing this (except the towing the Baja part since it's still a WiP) with my '91 Suburban. A recent trip thru Death Valley and the Mojave Road with the Sub highlighted just how big it is. Never had an issue, but at times it was tiring to drive. That Lanfair stretch thru the cacti & spiny yucca really worked me hard.

For the MUD FAQ, go here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-w...***-start-here-come-back-often-*********.html

A stock 60 is not a great choice for towing duty, tho' I have done it quite a bit with a 1200 lb trailer. You will not be zooming up any grades. I recall going over Lolo Pass at 25 to 35 MPH in second and third (5 speed) gear pulling a loaded trailer.

A newer ('85 and up) 60 series has a better TC. I highly recommend an H55F 5-speed transmission, which will give a lower first gear ratio AND better highway cruising (with better MPG). Unless you are going to do some serious rock crawling, I doubt you will ever get much from the doubler investment. This is an ALL TOYOTA solution. If you swap in a SBC you can use the Marks adaptor and not move any stock drive train components behind the engine, so the H55F, etc. do not need any modifications.

The stock 3.73 differential gearing is at the marginal end of the power range for 33" tires. Consider swapping in 4.11 thirds from an FJ62. The combo of 33" tires and 4.11 gearing gets you close to the factory final ratio with original tire size. Seriously consider tires with a narrower profile for a little less road resistance and better all around handling.

I doubt that you will need a locker in the front differential, unless you intend to do some extremely gnarly stuff - if you do, replace the Birfields with a much stronger unit. Front lockers can break your Birfs, and if they do, you have probably reached the practical limit of your vehicle, IMO.

The 60 is a really fine expedition rig, reliable, simple, capable. A 60 with OME suspension, expanded fuel capacity, and an H55F is even better.

 

[ntsqd]

Long term plan is to go to a 350/700R4 combo.

Read: within two years. No manuals in a tow rig of mine.
I realize going V8 doesn't sit well with everyone. I'm concerned with the vehicle doing what I want it to do and I do not see the 6 ever being reliable & economical at the HP level needed to do that.

For the MUD FAQ, go here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-w...***-start-here-come-back-often-*********.html

Been there repeatedly. Not a lot that is helping me, yet.

A stock 60 is not a great choice for towing duty, tho' I have done it quite a bit with a 1200 lb trailer. You will not be zooming up any grades. I recall going over Lolo Pass at 25 to 35 MPH in second and third (5 speed) gear pulling a loaded trailer.

This is because of lack of power or other issues?

A newer ('85 and up) 60 series has a better TC.

Better how? This is the sort of thing I've not yet found on Mud.

Unless you are going to do some serious rock crawling, I doubt you will ever get much from the doubler investment. This is an ALL TOYOTA solution. If you swap in a SBC you can use the Marks adaptor and not move any stock drive train components behind the engine, so the H55F, etc. do not need any modifications.

If a doubler costs 1/3 again that of an adapter then I'd rather have the lower gearing option. In other applications doublers are in this price range. Do not yet know about 60's.

The stock 3.73 differential gearing is at the marginal end of the power range for 33" tires. Consider swapping in 4.11 thirds from an FJ62. The combo of 33" tires and 4.11 gearing gets you close to the factory final ratio with original tire size. Seriously consider tires with a narrower profile for a little less road resistance and better all around handling.

I've pondered this. My Sub is currently 3.73 with 285's. To put the engine in it's ideal rpm range in OD the speed is a bit high for that size vehicle. I've gone back and forth over this with that vehicle. The final say will be towing the Baja. At that point if the high passes shut me down too much, then I'll reconsider the gearing. I have the tools to do my own gear set-ups, so it's not like I have to take it to a shop.
33-10.5's or 255/85's are the total range of tire size choices I'm considering. I have the former in both A/T and M/T already on 6 lug wheels.

I doubt that you will need a locker in the front differential, unless you intend to do some extremely gnarly stuff - if you do, replace the Birfields with a much stronger unit. Front lockers can break your Birfs, and if they do, you have probably reached the practical limit of your vehicle, IMO.

The 60 is a really fine expedition rig, reliable, simple, capable. A 60 with OME suspension, expanded fuel capacity, and an H55F is even better.

A front ARB would be more as insurance than for regular use.
At first it will get an OME. Should I stay interested and motivated in the vehicle it will get a radius arm - coil spring front conversion. I've BT,DT with making front leaves ride nice (approaching that of a coil sprung rig) and don't really care to repeat that whole ordeal.

 

[Mike S]

Read: within two years. No manuals in a tow rig of mine.
I realize going V8 doesn't sit well with everyone. I'm concerned with the vehicle doing what I want it to do and I do not see the 6 ever being reliable & economical at the HP level needed to do that.

Reliable, yes. Powerful?, not for what you describe.

This is because of lack of power or other issues?

Lack of power is the only issue. On flat ground you will be OK. You'll feel the lack of power on the hills.

Better how? This is the sort of thing I've not yet found on Mud.

Larger input shaft and better adaptability to an H55F.

If a doubler costs 1/3 again that of an adapter then I'd rather have the lower gearing option. In other applications doublers are in this price range. Do not yet know about 60's./quote]

Sounds like you will be replacing most of the drive train. So the Marks is not for you.

I've pondered this. My Sub is currently 3.73 with 285's. To put the engine in it's ideal rpm range in OD the speed is a bit high for that size vehicle. I've gone back and forth over this with that vehicle. The final say will be towing the Baja. At that point if the high passes shut me down too much, then I'll reconsider the gearing. I have the tools to do my own gear set-ups, so it's not like I have to take it to a shop.
33-10.5's or 255/85's are the total range of tire size choices I'm considering. I have the former in both A/T and M/T already on 6 lug wheels.

The sweet spot on a 60 (stock) is about 2000 to 2500. At low speeds you are in the strong torque zone. Highway speeds and towing is where you'll feel the difference. I settled on 31 X 10.50 MTRs as ideal for the 3.73 gears. In 33's I would go 10.50 or even 9.50 -- pizza cutters :sombrero:

A front ARB would be more as insurance than for regular use.
At first it will get an OME. Should I stay interested and motivated in the vehicle it will get a radius arm - coil spring front conversion. I've BT,DT with making front leaves ride nice (approaching that of a coil sprung rig) and don't really care to repeat that whole ordeal.

The OME stuff is as good as it gets for leaf spring suspension - and I found it pretty good, especially on corduroy roads. Not as good, though, as the locked live axles and OME coils on my 80 - a perfect combination, IMO.

I noticed that you are in CA. Get a vehicle that has intact smog and a certificate for transfer. Save a lot of greif... BTDT.

Mike