So I have been lurking around the Expo site for a while now gathering info and just getting different ideas about camping and campers and everything else. A little background.... I had an 83 CJ-5 that I was planning on building a trailer for, but two kids and a wife don't really agree with a CJ-5. I Sold that jeep and had a friend selling a 97 Ford F-250 PSD with 139000 miles and some extras, so I bought that. I have been looking for a bumper pull camper for a while but just can't justify the expense right now. A guy I work with was getting rid of a Cab Over camper so I told him heck yea for free, I'll take it. Well it has been sitting for a couple of years and is full of wasp nests and a lot of water damage. When I first looked at it I thought it wouldn't need much work, but when I looked at it the second time I saw more of the problems. I think I have decided to build my own Cab over and I have been trying to figure out how to do a pop-up. I was going to pull the stove, sink, heater and all that stuff out of the camper and start from scratch. My first and biggest question is, What material should I use to build it. I initially thought I would just do 2x4 wood, with generic siding but it seems a little over kill. I am more comfortable building with wood, but am open to all the options. I have a welder and no problems using it. Thanks for all the input...
Camper Construction Build Questions
- Thread starter Jeepsta
- Start date
Gunslinger1
Observer
stich and glue
I am looking to build as well and plan to build with the stich and glue or screw and glue which is easy to do. Look at wooden boat plans on the internet that use this method.
I am looking to build as well and plan to build with the stich and glue or screw and glue which is easy to do. Look at wooden boat plans on the internet that use this method.
goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
Why start from scratch? The frames on Four Wheel Campers are pretty damn durable, and if you find a camper that's in rough shape, they can be had for a song. Spend a couple days gutting it, and you are left with an outstanding foundation to work off of. It's a whole lot easier than starting from scratch, and you have a proven design.
I'm not one to discourage taking on big projects - but there's a reason that new campers cost so much (they aren't exactly easy to build).
I'm not one to discourage taking on big projects - but there's a reason that new campers cost so much (they aren't exactly easy to build).
Gunslinger1
Observer
never happen
I give up trying to find one on the east coast around SC. Not to happy with alu frames if thats what you were talking about. All the corners sweat in cold weather with a alu frame. No insulation. Got got rid of a $50,000.00 toy hauler bought new that was junk. Now I can build my little $500.00 camper and I bet I can make it where the walls dont run water in the winter time with just 2" insulation in between 1/4" plywood painted with polyester resin and luan on the inside. Its one of thoes projects I just want to do anyway.
I give up trying to find one on the east coast around SC. Not to happy with alu frames if thats what you were talking about. All the corners sweat in cold weather with a alu frame. No insulation. Got got rid of a $50,000.00 toy hauler bought new that was junk. Now I can build my little $500.00 camper and I bet I can make it where the walls dont run water in the winter time with just 2" insulation in between 1/4" plywood painted with polyester resin and luan on the inside. Its one of thoes projects I just want to do anyway.
goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
If it's 'one of those things', certainly do it. Like I said - I'm not one to discourage taking on projects that you *want* to do (people do that to me on a fairly regular basis, not understanding that the project is about more than just the end product).
Interesting about the condensation problem you mention. Growing up, we had both wood and aluminum campers - condensation was about the same on either, and we never had water 'running' down the sides of the interior. Of course, maybe the humidity just wasn't as high as what you see. who knows . . .
Either way, enjoy the project!
:friday:
As someone who's building a camper myself I'd say $500 very optimistic on your part unless you're talking a plain box. You'd be surprised when you start tallying up things (not sure how basic your design is so maybe lots of this isn't applicable): hinges, latches, lighting, a door (if you're not building your own), weather stripping, wiring, batteries, bed/couch (foam/cloth), windows, vents/fans, jacks, appliances, water tank/pump/sink, ETC. In your case since it's a soft side pop-up there is that material as well.
This in addition to material costs aside from the basics. Sure there is plywood, luan, and foam. But also adhesive, fasteners, paint, application brushes/rollers, sanding supplies, etc.
Just making sure you're not caught off guard.
In regards to the canvas (popup) part of it I agree with pods8, but a keen eye on craigslist can obtain quite a bit in the free section... not to mention that he already has a camper to take most of the inside parts from. To keep things in perspective I recently bought an '83 fleet fwc in pretty good condition for $700 over in TN. I live in NC, so I understand the concerns about humidity. But with that said the only moisture problems that I have experienced have been a couple damp spots on the canvas when I left it popped up for a couple days in the rain. Nothing serious, just a couple small corners.. but the sooner I can have a dry weekend and the spare time to fix that the better, but when the top is closed down it is a non-issue. Wood is quite organic and does a good job of sucking in any extra moisture.
2x4 is way overkill, mine is 1x material from the factory, and even then its 3/4" by 1.25" instead of 1.5". As I replace wood I slide the extra 1/4" off the insulation and use a standard 1x2.
I am planning a complete rebuild of mine. Its 1x frame with paneling inside and thin aluminum outside. Th paneling just tears apart, its like gluing the frame to a page in a book, its only attached to that one page and not the whole book. The frame is held together with staples so once the inner layer of paneling comes loose the staples let it flex and the flexing wears out the staple holes and it lets the frame twist and flex even more.
I built kitchen cabinets from 1x2's with mortise and tenon joints in our old house so i started copying the same design here just using dowels instead of M/T joints so i could field repair with nothing but a drill. Gluing together with a good water resistant glue. I'm skinning both sides in 1/8" plywood so it still fits inside the 1" aluminum channels. I glued the ply to the frame with liquid nails. I used scrap and made a second door then tried to tear it apart and it is strong.
I'm then going to either skin the outside in aluminum again or maybe just 'paint' with fiberglass and sand it smooth.
I am planning a complete rebuild of mine. Its 1x frame with paneling inside and thin aluminum outside. Th paneling just tears apart, its like gluing the frame to a page in a book, its only attached to that one page and not the whole book. The frame is held together with staples so once the inner layer of paneling comes loose the staples let it flex and the flexing wears out the staple holes and it lets the frame twist and flex even more.
I built kitchen cabinets from 1x2's with mortise and tenon joints in our old house so i started copying the same design here just using dowels instead of M/T joints so i could field repair with nothing but a drill. Gluing together with a good water resistant glue. I'm skinning both sides in 1/8" plywood so it still fits inside the 1" aluminum channels. I glued the ply to the frame with liquid nails. I used scrap and made a second door then tried to tear it apart and it is strong.
I'm then going to either skin the outside in aluminum again or maybe just 'paint' with fiberglass and sand it smooth.
Gunslinger1
Observer
condensation
The aluminum I speaking of is the frame corners where their is no insulation and thats where the camper sweats anytime your cooking or taking a shower or its just very humid. Southern SC and GA has plenty humidity. Anyhow the wood wont let it sweat because its a good insulation in itself. Guess thats why Teton live in RVs used woods frames.
The aluminum I speaking of is the frame corners where their is no insulation and thats where the camper sweats anytime your cooking or taking a shower or its just very humid. Southern SC and GA has plenty humidity. Anyhow the wood wont let it sweat because its a good insulation in itself. Guess thats why Teton live in RVs used woods frames.
Gunslinger1
Observer
It may be a conductor but the corners in a Teton RV dont sweat and the corner is wood.