Chaco Canyon via the Black Hole

woodwizard

Observer
View attachment 21278Jeff and I left Aztec NM after work on Friday. We’d decided not to return to Durango as we had brought all of our equipment with us. Our target for Friday night was the San Antonio campground in the Santa Fe National Forest, west of Los Alamos. The entire day had been cloudy with high over cast skies. In the evening, as we were heading south on 550, the clouds had organized into a wall of water, lighting flashes and deafing thunder. The thunderstorm was behind us by the time we reached Cuba, our turn off east through the San Pedro Mountains. Eventually, in the steady drizzle, the road narrowed and the pavement ended as it twisted through the ascending mountain valleys leaving us flinging mud everywhere. Around one of the corners there was a stopped group of vehicles trying to assist a small 2 wheel drive car caught in the thick, slick mud. When I applied the brakes the truck decided it didn’t want anything to do with stopping and continued to slide straight toward an unprotected drop off into a meadow. All I could see was the horrid look, followed by great relief, on the face of one of the helpers as we slid in slow motion straight for the edge and came to rest with the front passenger tire dangling over the precipice. A quick tug from a large Dodge dually in the group got all our wheels back in the mud and off we went, slip-sliding to San Antonio campground.View attachment 21279
View attachment 21275 View attachment 21276Being in close proximity to Los Alamos, San Antonio campground was over run with RV’s, campers, kids, barking dogs and full to the limit. Guarding the entrance, the campground host kindly let us in and allowed us to cook in her area and camp in the clearing behind her 5th Wheel. By 9:00PM she locked the gate into the campground- no one could come or go. During our brief conversation, she let us know of a hot spring nearby- the San Antonio Hot Spring. Before the rush the next morning, Jeff and I were up and gone. The dirt road to the hot spring was clearly marked and easy to find. 5 miles later we were sitting in a small parking area for the springs. The steam wafting through the ponderosa pines marked the 300 yard trail up the hill to a small, shallow, crystal clear pool with hand stacked rock walls that over flowed, cascading to smaller lower pools. The temperature was perfectly warm in the crisp morning shade. The view across the narrow tree covered canyon to the sun lit cliffs was expansive. After a quick splash, we cleaned the area of beer cans and wine bottles from the previous night’s party then retreated back to the truck. Chasing the wild turkeys out of our path as we exited, I was parking the truck in Los Alamos a short time later outside of the Black Hole.View attachment 21277
 

woodwizard

Observer
Chaco canyon via the Black Hole

View attachment 21280The first time that I had really heard of a Black Hole was in a physics class in school. But this Black Hole is an army-navy surplus store on steroids that carries all of the decommissioned, non-classified equipment from the Los Alamos National Laboratory. Every aisle is stuffed, no- crammed, no- almost impassable with every scientific do-dad imaginable. After walking through the maze of aisles for almost a 1 ½ hours, I finally found a piece that I thought would be fun to create with. About the closest description would be of something from an old Frankenstein laboratory. Unmarked with a price, I went looking for a salesman:
Me: “I found a piece and would like to know the price.”
Him: “OK, let’s go look at it.”
After re-tracing my steps, me: “Here it is”, pointing toward the object on the floor
Him: “Whoaaa, that’s a beauty. All stainless steel and you can’t find that glass tube anymore. I’ll give you a good deal- 700.00.”
With all of my strength to keep from first choking then laughing, me: “Wow that sounds like a deal but it’s still a little steep. Thanks.”
End of tour. The place is cool however I wasn’t going to walk out with anything.
Moving on, we didn’t want to retrace our steps through the San Pedro Mountains so we headed south to find a path heading west, across the Land of Unmarked Roads- the Navajo Nation, toward Chaco Canyon. After several hours with a couple of wrong turns we came across, which was later described to us as a Navajo ceremony- “the Squaw Dance”. It was the “Second Night” of the dance where the participants meet in a designated location for the actual dance. What immediately struck us odd was when we crested a hill in what appeared to be absolutely no where, there was a celebratory congregation of close to 2 dozen vehicles and twice that many people in a clearing, off into the sage. We later asked some Navajos that we work with how they could communicate exactly where to meet; “It’s their land and they know it well”. Within a ½ hour, we came across a sign that led us the rest of the way to Chaco. View attachment 21281
 

woodwizard

Observer
View attachment 21282Chaco Canyon had long been a legend. After trips to Mesa Verde, Hovenweep, Canyon de Chelly and even in Hopi and on the Navajo Nation, conversations concerning the ancient Puebloans would always steer to a mention- comparison about Chaco. The references to the central cradle of North American civilization, developer of architectural styles, creators of the celestial calendars and reasons for the eventual collapse would always leave more questions than answers.View attachment 21283 Covered in dirt and mud, we pulled into Chaco late in the day. The attractive, clean campground was only partially full and had plenty of room to spread out. Sunday morning started out with the usual pot of cowboy coffee, assessing what might be the day’s weather and activities. An open invitation posted on the campgrounds bulletin boards to socialize over cookies and coffee at the campground host’s shaded veranda found Jeff and I walking up and sitting down at their picnic table. It took a minute but the man sitting across from me looked familiar- “Greg (Viatierra)?” The last time we had crossed paths was a day trip out of Phoenix, up the Hassayampa River drainage with 1leglance. After catching up with each other, Jeff and I broke camp and attended a ranger lead hike through Pueblo Bonito. The excellent tour showed that the ranger had spent a lot of time researching, refining and delivering his talk. As with the entire park, Pueblo Bonito had so much more to offer that a simple tour would only make light of the desire for a return trip. Between Pueblo Bonito and the adjacent ruin, Chetro Ketl, we took the self guided tour along the canyon wall of petroglyphs. After we returned to Pueblo Bonito by cutting through the sage and rice grass, we hiked over to Kin Kletso and up through the crack in the canyon wall to the rim trail that leads to the overhead view of Pueblo Bonito and the Chaco Canyon floor. View attachment 21284View attachment 21286View attachment 21287From that vantage point the complexity, size and extent of Chaco’s ancient complex was truly beginning to unfold. Looking down and over the extensive system, more questions formulated concerning how the inhabitants supported such a large, thriving community in such an inhospitable place. From the rim trail we cut cross country over to Pueblo Alto. The ground around the ruin was covered in shards. I would have certainly thought the area would have been completely picked over. It was a good sign.
View attachment 21285By now the cookies had worn off and we were low on water so we reluctantly returned to the truck. After a light lunch under the trail head veranda, Jeff and I slowly began our trip back to the Durango area. View attachment 21288The Largo Canyon drainage provided a nice 50 mile dirt road that wasn’t too far out of the way. The road traveled past the entrance to Crow Canyon, a well known side canyon with wonderful pictograph panels. But we’re going to save that one for another time…
 
S

Scenic WonderRunner

Guest
Awesome Trip..........!

Me Likey! ....and now I gotta go!

Thanks for Sharing!:elkgrin:




...........dang it! If Only I could build a rock wall that nice!:ylsmoke: :costumed-smiley-007 :beer:




.
 

Hltoppr

El Gringo Spectacular!
Wow...the Black Hole...is that what folks are calling Ed Grothus' place...I kinda thought he'd have passed away by now...

I guess writing inane letters to the editor at the Los Alamos Monitor keeps him going....

-H-
 

Ursidae69

Traveller
What a trip to see my favorite hot springs online. Over the last 10 years I've been to those springs more times than I can count. It's best in the winter when the road is closed, not many people are willing to trek the six miles and you generally have the springs to yourself. Cool trip.
 

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