Changing the Brakes: First time Jitters...

[modelbuilder]

I will be changing the brakes on Thursday as well as bleeding them.

Here are the steps as I understand them.

1. Jack Car up (I'll be putting the entire car up on Jack Stands so all the wheels can be removed at once.

2. Remove Tires

3. Remove Calipers? (Not sure what I have to remove here)

4. After Calipers are removed bleed the brakes (Is there a certain order I should bleed them in?

5. Make sure Brake fluid is topped off while bleeding brakes. Bleed until fluid comes out clear.

6. Install new brake pads and put calipers back on.

Did I miss anything? What do I need to watch out for...kind of nervous here.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Make/Model?

Some don't require bleeding or caliper removal (ie most Toyota 4x4's), can't speak for many others

Even assuming you do have to remove the calipers, you wouldn't bleed them until they are reinstalled which you wouldn't do until you have installed the new pads.

 

[modelbuilder]

So bleeding occurs after I install the new pads?

2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

 

[cruiseroutfit]

So bleeding occurs after I install the new pads?

If you have to bleed at all. You only bleed once the caliper is back on the rotor... otherwise your just pumping your pistons out to the point they could pop out, rip boots, etc. I suppose you could put a block of wood or something similar in the caliper while you bleed it but why? Again, many applications don't require caliper removal or bleeding so save yourself the effort and find out if yours does.

Model?

 

[AYIAPhoto]

If you have to bleed at all. You only bleed once the caliper is back on the rotor... otherwise your just pumping your pistons out to the point they could pop out, rip boots,

My first post on Expo, but the advice quoted is correct. Brakes realy only need to be bled if air is somehow introduced into the system.

Basic disc brake replacement goes something like this...Jack one end of the car up at a time(front or back, doesn't matter) and set on jack stands. Remove both wheels on the end you are working on and take a good long look at the brakes. You will most likely see on the back(side closer to the center of the vehicle) two bolts which hold the caliper in place. They are likely torx bit bolts. If you dont know what torx bits are put the wheels back on and find a shop(not to sound like an ***** but I've had too many people try allen wrenches in torx bit bolts and made my job much harder).
Break the two bolts loose but do not remove them. At this point you will need a C-clamp to compress 1 caliper. Only do one side of each axle at a time. If your caliper is not used as part of the parking brake system, you will want to place the solid portion(non moving) of the C-clamp on the back of the caliper. The shoe of the C-clamp(at the end of the threaded rod) will be placed against the outer brake pad...
A word of warning...some rear calipers also act as the parking brake while other systems use a mini drum brake. Those that use the caliper as the parking brake require special tools to compress. Refer to your manual CONSTANTLY!!!
Twisting the C-clamp until it will go no further(and then backing it off) will give you space to move the caliper around. Once the caliper is loose, fully remove the bolts(most likely torx-that you loosened earlier) and slide the caliper off of the rotor(the pads may or not come with it). Replace the pads in the reverse of how they came out and slide the caliper back into its original position. Tighten the bolts that held the caliper in place and that wheel is done.
At this point it is good practice and habit to climb into the truck and pump the heck out of the brakes. If you forget this step and then jump into the truck and try to drive away you will have no brakes because there will be too much space between your pads and rotors(ask me how I know, it involves replacing my parents garage door).
Repeat the process on the opposite side and then move to the opposite end of the vehicle.
If you are at all uncomfortable doing your own brakes for the first time, GOOD. They are not rocket science ,But are a serious matter.

 

[SilverBullet]

I agree with the above post. 3 things you never want to skimp on, steering, tires, and brakes. These will either keep you alive or put you on a path to trouble.

Toyota brakes are fairly easy, so if you have a buddy show you the ropes, you will be fine for next time. Also, don't bleed the brakes alone, this can be very difficult without a helper or mechanical advantage of some kind. If you have a compressor, google "home made pnuematic brake bleeder" and you can make an easy assistant.

 

[goodtimes]

At this point you will need a C-clamp to compress 1 caliper. Only do one side of each axle at a time.

Be aware that many (MANY) GM ABS units have been destroyed doing this. This procedure forces brake fluid back through the ABS unit, which can contaminate it. At $1,200 for a new one, I wouldn't suggest anyone do it. Just not worth the risk considering you should be flushing the fluid every couple years anyway.

A better solution is to open the bleed screw before pushing the piston back into the caliper.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

My first post on Expo, but the advice quoted is correct. Brakes realy only need to be bled if air is somehow introduced into the system.

No.

Brake fluid should be changed every year, 2 years at the most. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, which reduces the boiling point. This can lead to loss of braking ability when you get the brakes hot, such as coming down a long hill heavily loaded. Also, the water forms acids inside the system, which attack the metal and rubber components and result in their eventual failure. Your entire braking system will last longer if you flush it regularly.

You don't necessarily bleed the brakes when you change the pads. You should bleed the brakes yearly.

One trick to a quicker bleed: Go get a plastic turkey baster from the dollar store. Use it to suck out all the old black fluid from the reservoir, then top up with fresh stuff. You should be able to remove the screen and float from the reservoir to get more fluid out. It's ok to take the fluid level very low, as long as nobody touches the brake pedal until you have topped it up again with fresh fluid!

The first caliper you do will take the longest, the rest go quicker. While bleeding, make sure you keep the reservoir topped up! If you suck air... at best you'll have to start bleeding again. At worst, you may need to go in for a professional bleed if you have a complicated ABS system. It's OK to overfill the reservoir as you bleed, but make sure it's down to the right level when you're done.

The "special tool" to screw in the rear caliper pistons is usually available at the auto parts store. This shouldn't be a big deal. But sometimes the parking brake screw is left hand threaded on one side of the car. Be aware of this, don't screw the piston out of the caliper. I've screwed pistons in before without the tool using a pair of needle nose pliers to engage the lugs on the face. But it's WAY easier with the tool.

 

[AYIAPhoto]

No.

Brake fluid should be changed every year, 2 years at the most.

You don't necessarily bleed the brakes when you change the pads. You should bleed the brakes yearly.

While changing fluid is recommended I was referring to bleeding of the brakes. If the OP simply opened the right rear bleeder screw(always start furthest from the master cylinder) while a friend held the brake down or used a vacuum pump and then worked his way around, he would never get all of the fluid out anyway. From the original post it would appear he is trying to attempt replacing the pads only, and if that is the case I would rather not see him open the system and then have to drive a vehicle with questionable brakes somewhere to have them bled correctly.
If I were not 3k miles away I would volunteer to assist him in the job as I believe everyone(particularly those of us who use our vehicle for more than the factory designed mall runs) should have an understanding of how the basic systems of our cars/trucks function. Sadly the owners manual that comes with cars nowadays is woefully inadequate for any thing more than learning to program your radio. Chilton/Hayes manuals are better but obviously geared towards those who have some training in auto repair.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Chilton/Hayes manuals are better but obviously geared towards those who have some training in auto repair.

Yeah.

How to R/R engine:

1. Open Hood.

2. Disconnect Battery.

3. Remove engine.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I stopped buying Chilton's a long time ago. I just wing it now.

 

[Mr. Leary]

A better solution is to open the bleed screw before pushing the piston back into the caliper.

:iagree: I always do this to make sure I don't damage the caliper.

I was taught that it is ALWAYS a good idea to bleed the brakes... pretty much whenever you do something to them. Just make sure not to get any fluid on the new pads.

Draft a friend. Pump 5 times and hold... bleed. Repeat this until fluid is clear and free of bubbles. Bleed each brake individually. Keep an eye on fluid levels and refill as needed. You will end up flushing the whole system after a brake change if you do it this way.

Yeah.

How to R/R engine:

1. Open Hood.

2. Disconnect Battery.

3. Remove engine.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I stopped buying Chilton's a long time ago. I just wing it now.

:coffeedrink:

 

[CA-RJ]

Take your rotors and have them resurfaced.

 

[modelbuilder]

Success...changed the brakes and did a system bleed. The pressure is back and the pedal does not compress down to the floor anymore.

.

 

[Mr. Leary]

Good. No brakes is bad m-kay!

 

[Ruffin' It]

With a whole lotta brake jobs under my belt, I have to say this is really, really good advice. Open the bleeder when compressing the caliper.

Be aware that many (MANY) GM ABS units have been destroyed doing this. This procedure forces brake fluid back through the ABS unit, which can contaminate it. At $1,200 for a new one, I wouldn't suggest anyone do it. Just not worth the risk considering you should be flushing the fluid every couple years anyway.

A better solution is to open the bleed screw before pushing the piston back into the caliper.