I'm in the middle of building my CDN M101 trailer and I'm finally starting the electrical. While I don't have all of the accessories picked out, I'll eventually be putting in a dual battery system to run a fridge, a radio or two (music and CB) some small lights, etc. I'm not sure what it would be called, but I'm looking for something to manage the charging of the batteries. I'll have the 12-14V DC circuit coming from the tow vehicle (when it's running), a 110V AC circuit from the house or camp ground, and very likely a solar panel a little later. Anyone know of such a beast or combination of devices?
Charge Controller?
- Thread starter DevEmp
- Start date
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The simplest system would be to use a marine grade smart charger connected to a shore plug for the 110 volt. Then run everything off 12 volt in the trailer, and/or install an inverter.
If you are going to install solar you need a control panel. These vary from solid state no display units to LED display units showing the charge on the battery and the incoming amps from the panel.
If solar is something you are going to do down the road I wouldn't add the control box until later. It's a relatively easy installation.
In $ terms solar is the most expensive way to get power, a second deep cycle is more cost effective, but will increase your weight by 60 lbs.
Remember that the charge coming from the vehicle is dependant on the gauge of wire run. Typically it's 10 gauge so it's going to take longer to charge the batteries in your trailer than the primary battery in your vehicle.
To make sure the dual batteries a evenly charged connect them together with 6 gauge cable.
If you are going to install solar you need a control panel. These vary from solid state no display units to LED display units showing the charge on the battery and the incoming amps from the panel.
If solar is something you are going to do down the road I wouldn't add the control box until later. It's a relatively easy installation.
In $ terms solar is the most expensive way to get power, a second deep cycle is more cost effective, but will increase your weight by 60 lbs.
Remember that the charge coming from the vehicle is dependant on the gauge of wire run. Typically it's 10 gauge so it's going to take longer to charge the batteries in your trailer than the primary battery in your vehicle.
To make sure the dual batteries a evenly charged connect them together with 6 gauge cable.
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
I went the dual Deka battery route with a Xantrex 20 amp smart charger. The system works great.
The pictures are loacted in this thread:
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12522
The pictures are loacted in this thread:
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12522
Mike S
Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
I put dual 105 AH flooded batteries in my trailer, and a Guest (Marine) 2 bank smart charger with external plug for charging via 110V. Martyn's approach. I wanted the extra battery to be available for my trolling motor.
I find that this set-up provides adequate power for my meagre needs - but I have no fridge. I bought an inverter, but have not found a need for it yet - so it is not installed.
I looked at designs for charging via the vehicle, but did not proceed. This requires a battery controller in the trailer (or vehicle) and a fairly hefty (dedicated) power lead from the engine compartment to the trailer battery. I know that some people use a 7- pin connector and the center pin feeds charge to the trailer batteries. This is, I think, a limited capability option.
The trailer will spend a lot more time stored or parked than hooked to your (running) vehicle - the smart charger will maintain the battery - the vehicle charger won't - unless it is hooked up and running.
You COULD do both, I suppose.
I find that this set-up provides adequate power for my meagre needs - but I have no fridge. I bought an inverter, but have not found a need for it yet - so it is not installed.
I looked at designs for charging via the vehicle, but did not proceed. This requires a battery controller in the trailer (or vehicle) and a fairly hefty (dedicated) power lead from the engine compartment to the trailer battery. I know that some people use a 7- pin connector and the center pin feeds charge to the trailer batteries. This is, I think, a limited capability option.
The trailer will spend a lot more time stored or parked than hooked to your (running) vehicle - the smart charger will maintain the battery - the vehicle charger won't - unless it is hooked up and running.
You COULD do both, I suppose.
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
Mike S said:
Agreed. My KK trailer does use the 7 pin trailer connector and runs the center pin 12V power from the tow rig back to the batteries. It's helps with charging while you are towing but only a small trickle charge since it's not a heavy gauge circuit. For short trips, if I top off the batteries at home with shore power (or garage power in my case) then that will carry me through a weekend trip. For longer stays, I carry a honda generator to provide remote 110VAC for the shore power attachement which feeds the Xantrex 20 amp charger installed in the trailer.
Someday if I get rich, I'll explore the solar options.
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Mike
We use the same approach to this issue.
A single group 31 deep cycle is adequate for most power requirements for 3-5 days, it's very dependant on how the owner uses their equipment. This estimate includes the use of an Engel 45 liter fridge. Two batteries will obviously double the capabilities.
The charge rate for the trailer batteries is slower than the main battery due to the distance from the alternator, and the gauge of cable from engine compartment to the trailer.
I'd expect a low main vehicle battery to be fully charged after driving 10 or 15 miles, but you may have to drive 25 or 30 to get the same effect with a trailer mounted battery. If this is understood from the get go then I think the charge capabilities are fine.
With a dual battery system you get even charging of the batteries if they are connected with heavy gauge cable. If you have 10 gauge running to the first battery and 10 gauge running to the second battery the second battery always lags the first in charge.
Using a smart charger means you are starting out with a fully charged battery that is in good condition, this approach solved 90% of all the deep cycle battery issues.
Inverters are useful but not essential. If you end up using one don't be surprised if it draws down your battery more than you anticipated. Running a 60 watt 120v light bulb to illuminate your camp will draw down the battery in no time. When ever you can go for the 12 volt option.
We use the same approach to this issue.
A single group 31 deep cycle is adequate for most power requirements for 3-5 days, it's very dependant on how the owner uses their equipment. This estimate includes the use of an Engel 45 liter fridge. Two batteries will obviously double the capabilities.
The charge rate for the trailer batteries is slower than the main battery due to the distance from the alternator, and the gauge of cable from engine compartment to the trailer.
I'd expect a low main vehicle battery to be fully charged after driving 10 or 15 miles, but you may have to drive 25 or 30 to get the same effect with a trailer mounted battery. If this is understood from the get go then I think the charge capabilities are fine.
With a dual battery system you get even charging of the batteries if they are connected with heavy gauge cable. If you have 10 gauge running to the first battery and 10 gauge running to the second battery the second battery always lags the first in charge.
Using a smart charger means you are starting out with a fully charged battery that is in good condition, this approach solved 90% of all the deep cycle battery issues.
Inverters are useful but not essential. If you end up using one don't be surprised if it draws down your battery more than you anticipated. Running a 60 watt 120v light bulb to illuminate your camp will draw down the battery in no time. When ever you can go for the 12 volt option.
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
It is possible to run heavy duty cable to the trailer. You use the same set up as running cable to a winch. The cable is fitted with a socket at the back of the vehicle, and the trailer has a plug.
It's not used very often here in the USA, you see a fair amount of it overseas when a trailer has two or more batteries in a bank.
Great care has to be taken running the cable, it must be fused or have a breaker in it.
It's not used very often here in the USA, you see a fair amount of it overseas when a trailer has two or more batteries in a bank.
Great care has to be taken running the cable, it must be fused or have a breaker in it.
The charging circuit from the Jeep will probably be #10 like everyone has guessed. The trailer batteries will likely be charged mainly at the house prior to leaving (turning the fridge on and loading it with food the night before, etc) and using the Jeep to keep the batteries topped off while traveling to the camp area. Currently I don't plan on staying out longer than a week, so my goal is to keep power for the fridge and radios the whole time. From what I'm seeing I just need a smart battery charger. I'll hard mount it to the trailer, so something rugged is needed.
Anyone have a recommendation for a stout charger or a decent priced source to get it from?
Anyone have a recommendation for a stout charger or a decent priced source to get it from?
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
We carry marine grade smart chargers, both the single battery 6 amp charger and the double battery 10 / 10 amp charger. http://www.adventuretrailers.com/12volt_solar.html
If you are mounting these in a box I'd recommend using a shore plug, we carry those as well. Using the shore plug you connect direct with an extension cord instead of draping an extension cord between the top of the box and the lid. Either way use a good extension cord rated for the application and outside use.
If you are mounting these in a box I'd recommend using a shore plug, we carry those as well. Using the shore plug you connect direct with an extension cord instead of draping an extension cord between the top of the box and the lid. Either way use a good extension cord rated for the application and outside use.
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
I went with Xantrex primarily because they have a remote temp battery sensor and remote monitor pannel that I wanted in my application.
http://www.davesmarineelectronics.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7820
Both are well made units that will do well in offroad conditions.
I paired that with two of the Grp31 Deka AGP batteries from the AT boys for a nice complete system with remote monitoring capabilities.
http://www.davesmarineelectronics.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=7820
Both are well made units that will do well in offroad conditions.
I paired that with two of the Grp31 Deka AGP batteries from the AT boys for a nice complete system with remote monitoring capabilities.
Tucson T4R
Expedition Leader
Tress said:
The model I have has two charge outputs so if you want to charge two separate batteries you could. I have my two trailer batteries tied together into one bank and charge them together.
I believe a solar charging system would be a separate circuit with its own solar charge controller connected to the battery.
TheGillz
Explorer
Martyn said:
I have a few questions if you don't mind entertaining me...
If you were to run the heavy duty cable from the tow vehicle to the batteries, does it need to be plugged into one of the smart chargers? or straight to the terminals?
If charger, would those marine ones work or are they for 110v source only?
What size fuse would you recomend? The fuse would be inline between the batteries and the alternator?
Would a stock Alternator on a new Jeep JK for instance be hearty enough to charge up to two extra batteries without frying it?
Very new to this, thanks for your patience.
Martyn
Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
TheGillz said:
I can answer some of your questions.
Heavy duty cables would be fused or have a breaker in them and go direct to the deep cycle battery terminal.
The Marine grade Smart chargers are 110 volt and are used to maintain the battery between trips.
I don't have a definitive answer about the alternator. My understanding is that the voltage regulator in the alternator will continue to charge a battery up to a certain voltage, then it switches off so as not to over charge a battery. I don't think it will fry an alternator if it's output isn't large enough to power all your requirements. You may want an alternator with a higher output to charge the batteries faster. It will be interesting to see what others have to say about the matter.