Cherokee/xj help needed
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MuckSavage
Adventurer
Search around here, JeepForum, NAXJA, CherokeeForum, etc. There's a ton to learn. I would stick with a non-Renix injected XJ, get one with a Chryco 8.25 rear axle. Everyone else.....the floor's yours....................
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
^He pretty much nailed it. Any XJ newer than 91 is a good bet over all. Getting better would be one with the 8.25 rear. Other than the well known dogs turd Dana 35 in many there really are not many that are a bad choice. The 4.0 is (IMHO) the best engine Jeep ever came out with...period. The AW4 is a good auto tranny with very few flaws. Add an NP231 t-case and go. In 97 the body got a makeover and the edges got smoothed as well as the interior got an update. Either are perfectly usable though the newer one has two attempts at cup holders where the older ones get nada! Sounds dumb until you realize there is nowhere to put your drink! lol!
For bargaining purposes and your general info... The rear main seal and the exhaust header are known issues. The RMS usually goes out between 100-150k and the exhaust will crack at the collector. Replace the RMS and buy a quality replacment/aftermarket header and roll on. The 4.0 is known to reach very high mileage numbers... One of my last ones was at almost 400k when I turned it over to the next owner that is still driving it today, about 8 years later!
For bargaining purposes and your general info... The rear main seal and the exhaust header are known issues. The RMS usually goes out between 100-150k and the exhaust will crack at the collector. Replace the RMS and buy a quality replacment/aftermarket header and roll on. The 4.0 is known to reach very high mileage numbers... One of my last ones was at almost 400k when I turned it over to the next owner that is still driving it today, about 8 years later!
JakeC
Member
I don't own a Cherokee (I own a Grand Cherokee), but upon my stumbling through the internet I've noticed a common problem that happens with certain XJ's that has to due with a cracked cylinder head in later year models. Here's a thread from CherokeeForum:
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how...-please-vote-if-you-have-late-99-01-xj-68400/
I'm sure someone in here will stop in and elaborate more on it.
Good luck! Always loved the look of the Cherokee and most likely will eventually own one.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how...-please-vote-if-you-have-late-99-01-xj-68400/
I'm sure someone in here will stop in and elaborate more on it.
Good luck! Always loved the look of the Cherokee and most likely will eventually own one.
katuah
Adventurer
Some basic searches and reading on NAXJA will help much. Older Renix models are a pain. The older low-pinion vac-disco Dana 30 front axle is not the best. YOu want HP non-vac D30, and the 8.25 in the rear. 97-98 is a good year for this. In either 99 or 00 they changed the intake manifold (better) and the front axle (worse - back to LP).
Keep in mind that the 00-01 models also had an issue with cracking cylinder heads (cylinders stamped 0331). I recently picked up a 1998 model with a chrysler 8.25 and HP D30. These seem to be the "best" of the XJ series. Some like the "older" (pre-97) body style, but I preferred the 97+. If you get a chance, try to get one that has an actual gauge cluster. Jeep did release some models with just "dummy" gauges (the S models, I think). The sport models came with a gauge cluster that had RPM, temp, pressure, etc. I changed my S's cluster with one from a sport (a TJ cluster will also work).
There are a few weaknesses to the XJ. Mainly it's the unibody frame instead of a dedicated frame. Be sure to inspect it well to see if there is any rust or cracking of the unibody. There are lots of aftermarket companies that make reinforcement parts for the unibody, so plan to spend some money there if you're going to do any "rough" off road use. As far as them being great for general overland use, they work very well. I use mine for camping, hauling gear, hunting, etc. I enjoy it over the previous 4x4s I've owned (2 YJs and a Montero). Great amount of after market stuff for them as well.
Find a good conditioned one and you wont regret it
There are a few weaknesses to the XJ. Mainly it's the unibody frame instead of a dedicated frame. Be sure to inspect it well to see if there is any rust or cracking of the unibody. There are lots of aftermarket companies that make reinforcement parts for the unibody, so plan to spend some money there if you're going to do any "rough" off road use. As far as them being great for general overland use, they work very well. I use mine for camping, hauling gear, hunting, etc. I enjoy it over the previous 4x4s I've owned (2 YJs and a Montero). Great amount of after market stuff for them as well.
Find a good conditioned one and you wont regret it
My remix is unstoppable! Very low maintenance but you need to understand them and how to check things which is why I believe most people right them off.
Personally get a 95 if you like the per facelift model. Obd1, dual diaphram brake booster, can be had with. An c8.25 axle. I would go manual windows & locks, then retro fit the power locks in place if you really need them. I love my manual stuff over the electrical for simplicity & because me jeeps a jeep..it get muddy, water filled ect. That stuff just goes bad to quick..I loved it before but to much paint to up keep.
Newer Boyle style then 97-98 would be the only year I would get, I believe 99+ went to the coil packs vs the distributor..
I did the old remix cause they are literally worry free if you get the basics. I knew I would upgrade/change seats & axles & just about everything else so it fit me best. I swapped. 94 d30 in place, 99 rear c8.25. Seats from a grand Cherokee, new carpet, we brake booster & master..so all my weak points were addressed and I only have to pass the sniffer test here in CA. While newer jeeps need to worry about check engine lights and the sniffer
I believe that 99 was right for coil packs. Forget that...spark plugs for me.
I have power windows/locks in mine. I wish that I could swap them out and put a manual setup in. I just know that down the road, it will be a PITA when something breaks to find the part for it.
Explorer 1
Explorer 1
What's your budget???
All the advice you've recieved is good when it comes to getting some of the better equipment on a newer XJ.
It is true that the older fuel injection system found on the 87-90's is less supported and provides less horsepower.
Living in Grand Junction Colorado it might be harder to find an older one without any rust, so depending on your budget it might be good to shop a little further west.
If your planning on really building a trail rig with lots of modifications, then getting a base vehicle for as low $$ as possible might be a good idea. The older, "Renix" injection system seems to be a easier engine to build when it come to a Stroker motor.
If you mean minor changes to make it look more like a trail rig with a few creature comforts and "bling" then the newer ones would be the route to go.
Not to discourage you from a XJ but the earlier ZJ's (Grand Cherokee) can be had for the same $$ or less than the XJ's and have some base features that I wish my XJ had.
Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
All the advice you've recieved is good when it comes to getting some of the better equipment on a newer XJ.
It is true that the older fuel injection system found on the 87-90's is less supported and provides less horsepower.
Living in Grand Junction Colorado it might be harder to find an older one without any rust, so depending on your budget it might be good to shop a little further west.
If your planning on really building a trail rig with lots of modifications, then getting a base vehicle for as low $$ as possible might be a good idea. The older, "Renix" injection system seems to be a easier engine to build when it come to a Stroker motor.
If you mean minor changes to make it look more like a trail rig with a few creature comforts and "bling" then the newer ones would be the route to go.
Not to discourage you from a XJ but the earlier ZJ's (Grand Cherokee) can be had for the same $$ or less than the XJ's and have some base features that I wish my XJ had.
Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
88Xj
Banned
Great point here on the zj except I'd look only at 93&94 personally..they had the aw4 which as stated is damn near bullet proof. It's actually very similar the a340e found in twin turbo Toyota supras
I wish I would of started with a zj now. 6" longer, more interior space, 4 link front & rear. And v8 power if you like that kind thing..I love me the inline6. With he 4link it'll ride & flex better on & offroad when setup properly. Plus the np242 which has full time 4x4 option which I also love.
Tell us your needs and budget
I wish I would of started with a zj now. 6" longer, more interior space, 4 link front & rear. And v8 power if you like that kind thing..I love me the inline6. With he 4link it'll ride & flex better on & offroad when setup properly. Plus the np242 which has full time 4x4 option which I also love.
Tell us your needs and budget
Hill Bill E.
Oath Keeper
The coil on plug started in '00, but some of the late '99's had the new style head with the boss' cast in to mount the coil-on-plugs. (it's the newer heads that had the problems, if they were casting# mentioned above)
Also in mid year '99 they changed the unit bearing/brake rotor, not a big deal, but you need to know what style you have when ordering parts, as they are not interchangeable (unless you change both the rotor and unit bearing)
They are a great platform for back country adventure, and can be built into a great wheeling rig also.
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
It's not so much the motor itself that gave me issues. The overheating due to the closed loop radiator system is an easy enough fix but all the wild wiring and those horrid inline fusable links gave me fits!
The Bosch system is just far neater/organized and IMHO less trouble. 
beardus supremous
Adventurer
On my second XJ, first was a 95 with the HO motor and the HP dana 30, however I was stuck with the 35 in the back. The one now is an '01. I would recommend staying away from the 00-01 XJ's. Coil pack and LP dana 30 as stated by others and dana 35's. The last two years jeep just kind of threw them together with "spare parts" as I like to call it. A really good bet would be the 98-99 IMO. The 97 has the body upgrades, but are known to have wiring issues under the hood. But all in all find a great (rust free if possible) base and go from there like the rest of us. Hell I never had issues with the rear dana 35's in both of mine, but a ford 8.8 is always a great swap!!
Happy hunting
Happy hunting
Ah, one other thing: all cherokees with ABS brakes have the dana 35 rear end. Non-ABS had C8.25's put in them. Mine has ABS, but the PO put a C8.25 in it. So I have all the ABS plumbing, but no ABS. If I ever feel feisty enough Im going to rip all that out so I can snorkel mine.
Food for thought.
Food for thought.
I'd recommend 96-98 if you can handle occasional wiring. Remembering that these are still some simple rigs and pretty durable. I enjoyed my 96 and it had great power. Get a tranny AW4 or AX15 for the "never worry" feeling. I6 and 231 T-case are always easy going.
If you never really wanna worry about electrical and enjoy basics, get an 87-90 Renix. Some of these had Dana44, tow packages, and added beef, strong frames and can be found in a grandma's garage. If you are putting on 31's, the Dana 35 is ok still and I use it with no worries. The Vacuum disco front axle allows me to get 24 mpg on the highway sometimes (unloaded, no RTT) and still cruise on flat terrain (mountains bog me down however in SLC going to snowbird, skiing, etc) No aircon is a bummer but not always an issue. Brakes would be better if I had a stick to drag out the window but overall, I can stop in an emergency, thats all you need (no ABS is better for everything except snow in my book)
Engine is renix strong, same T-cases and Tranny's (except the dreaded BA10, aka, my tranny) Do a 2.5-3 inch lift, 31's, dont worry about a SYE and go out and explore. Super cheap, extremely reliable.
If you never really wanna worry about electrical and enjoy basics, get an 87-90 Renix. Some of these had Dana44, tow packages, and added beef, strong frames and can be found in a grandma's garage. If you are putting on 31's, the Dana 35 is ok still and I use it with no worries. The Vacuum disco front axle allows me to get 24 mpg on the highway sometimes (unloaded, no RTT) and still cruise on flat terrain (mountains bog me down however in SLC going to snowbird, skiing, etc) No aircon is a bummer but not always an issue. Brakes would be better if I had a stick to drag out the window but overall, I can stop in an emergency, thats all you need (no ABS is better for everything except snow in my book)
Engine is renix strong, same T-cases and Tranny's (except the dreaded BA10, aka, my tranny) Do a 2.5-3 inch lift, 31's, dont worry about a SYE and go out and explore. Super cheap, extremely reliable.