Climbing McKinley May 2005

[teotwaki]

I'll be glad to answer any questions about gear, skillsets or planning.

 

[blupaddler]

Wow!

Congratulations!!!
That is absolutely amazing!

Have you done any other summits since?

 

[teotwaki]

Wow!

Congratulations!!!
That is absolutely amazing!

Have you done any other summits since?

Thank you for your kind remarks!

Mount Rainier in July 2006.


It seemed not easier than the previous summit in 2004 but somehow different after Alaska. Maybe I was more comfortable with such a short trip even though it is every bit as dangerous as McKinley.


No big plans this year. I've got a couple of invites for McKinley in 2009 but that decision can be made much later this year.


From you sig file I see that we have the Salt Tram cabin as a common experience! Very cool!

 

[articulate]

Excellent! That is incredible work. In my days as a rock climber, I never moved on to (or desired) full-fledged mountaineering on peaks like Rainier or McKinley. But I always prefered to climb routes that summitted on free-standing spires. If it wasn't for my desert upbringing, I might actually enjoy climbing the snowy summits.

Did you ever go through any formal training on self-rescue, anchor building, or other skills before embarking on your first summit attempt?

:chowtime: I'm eating this up.

 

[teotwaki]

Excellent! That is incredible work. In my days as a rock climber, I never moved on to (or desired) full-fledged mountaineering on peaks like Rainier or McKinley. But I always prefered to climb routes that summitted on free-standing spires. If it wasn't for my desert upbringing, I might actually enjoy climbing the snowy summits.

Did you ever go through any formal training on self-rescue, anchor building, or other skills before embarking on your first summit attempt?

:chowtime: I'm eating this up.

I never took formal classes but instead read books, practiced at home, ran to the local mountains every time there was snow, and got out there with more experienced folks. I also did not hesitate to let those guys know if I felt as if I was over my head so that they could help decide if I should turn back or move forward under more watchful eyes.

I have nothing against the formal classes, but probably am a bit of a cheapskate... :hehe:

 

[ox4mag]

Yeah, I've found that there are two excellent resources outside of taking courses: The first being friends who enjoy the mountains, have the experience, and don't mind teaching what they know. The second is the mountaineering bible 'Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills'. If you read that book and hit the peaks with folks who have experience, you'll be pretty well knowledged in what you need to do at altitude.

Congrats on a great series of trips. I'm very envious of you.

 

[teotwaki]

Thanks! My one and only gripe with that book is that is has never addressed using a sled for expedition load carrying.

 

[Ron B]

hey Jim,
I met you on the Gold Mt/John Bull trip a few months back (red hummer). I wish I had known you were a climber then -- I'm a hack in comparison but learning. I climb Whitney every year, and it kicks my ******** so I can't imagine how hard it was for you! Very cool pics and write-up.

see you on the trails

Ron B

 

[teotwaki]

The entire Denali Expedition Report:

Part 1
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005.html

Part 2
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005_25.html

Part 3
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005_1065.html

Part 3.1
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005_5070.html

Part 4
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005_6817.html

Part 5
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005_5192.html

Part 6
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005_26.html

Part 7 SUMMIT!
http://suntothenorth.blogspot.com/2010/12/climbing-mt-mckinley-denali-in-may-2005.html

 

[Rallyroo]

The entire Denali Expedition Report:

Part 1 through Part 7 SUMMIT!

Thanks for sharing the story. I sometimes wonder if I'll ever attempt Denali. After reading your story, I feel it's more of a possibility.

I'll figure that out that answer out after I get around to attempting Rainier. For 14ers, I got Shasta and Whitney under my belt so far.

 

[stainless40/45]

On that path

We are climbing,hiking,driving up to and up on each and every highpoint of each and every state...We are looking forward to the west coast. We have 18 down so far....but the hard ones are all out west......and don't know if we will get Denali.......

 

[Rallyroo]

We are climbing,hiking,driving up to and up on each and every highpoint of each and every state...We are looking forward to the west coast. We have 18 down so far....but the hard ones are all out west......and don't know if we will get Denali.......

Did you make it to the highest point in Florida? At 345 feet (105 m) above mean sea level, Britton Hill is a toughie.

 

[teotwaki]

Thanks for sharing the story. I sometimes wonder if I'll ever attempt Denali. After reading your story, I feel it's more of a possibility.

I'll figure that out that answer out after I get around to attempting Rainier. For 14ers, I got Shasta and Whitney under my belt so far.

Mount Rainier is an excellent training ground for Denali as it has icy slopes, crevasses and long boring slogs (Camp Muir approach) or steep approaches (Camp Shurman). The major high basecamp on Denali is at 14K so when you feel as if you can romp up to 14K summits without issue you are on the right track. Be sure to stay proficient at ice axe self-arrest and creavasse self rescue.

Did you go up Whitney in the winter? I've had my butt handed to me 3 times now by storms (2) and illness so one of these days I'll do something better than the 13 hour summer death march from the portal. My best luck for safe ascents has been on Rainier.

 

[teotwaki]

Did you make it to the highest point in Florida? At 345 feet (105 m) above mean sea level, Britton Hill is a toughie.

Dang, I don't know if I could handle that one!! :bowdown: I think in in Florida I got Cerebral Edema on the tower of Fort Matanzas and had to be helicoptered out by the climbing rangers. :elkgrin:

I think that the most dangerous thing I've really done in Florida was to swim in a canal in Fort Lauderdale. I know better now.... :snorkel:

 

[adventureduo]

Jim, thanks for reviving an old thread. Wholy smokes man.... this is something i'd love to accomplish someday. I need a personal trainer.. hehehe... anyhow.. you think someone with a fear of heights can do it? Im scared just to try Whitney!

Speaking of which , i did a DVD for a fellow that did Badwater to Whitney in one straight through hike. Talk about nuts dude.

Anyways, Epic trip man. Thanks for sharing.