Clutch slipping on my 2013 Tacoma

After 3 days of driving back from Wyoming to the northwest, I noticed that my clutch was slipping in 4th gear up a hill. I've driving manual my whole life and have never had an issue with this before. I'm running 265/75/16s and just a hair over the gvwr with all of my **** in the camper. Here's the kicker, my truck has 36k miles on it!! This shouldn't happen. I called the dealer I bought the truck from and told him the news and he said that toyota doesn't cover clutches under it power train warranty because this is consider wear and tear.

What do you guys think I should do? Any recommendations on aftermarket clutches?
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v_man

Explorer
What are the symptoms ? You give gas and RPMs rise but no noticeable acceleration? It only does in 4th ? Can you smell the clutch when you park ? A pretty common test is to pull up to a barrier , like a wall , and put it in first or second and let the clutch out , with a good clutch the truck will quickly stall out , a fading clutch will allow the car to idle for a bit . A blown clutch and it will idle almost indefinitely with truck in gear , against the wall , and clutch out .

Before you start throwing money at the truck , figure out if it's really the clutch or something else . 36k miles seems very low for a clutch to be going out .... I had a 93 Toyota pickup go over 200k miles on original clutch .... Good luck .
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Bleed the hydraulic lines and cylinders that activate the clutch. My brother-in-law replaced his clutch for the same reason, still had the same problem. Got the air out of the lines = problem solved.
 
The clutch would smell and smoke after driving it. I did the test on a hill in fourth gear and let started letting the clutch out, it started slipping and then smoked. I'll look I to the hydronic fluids.

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tanglefoot

ExPoseur
Also check the adjustment of the clutch travel. If it's anything like the earlier trucks, there is a lot of adjustability in the threaded rod that connects the pedal assembly to the master cylinder. Maybe you have something similar. Maybe the adjustment mechanism came loose?

Where in the clutch pedal stroke does the clutch start to activate? Pretty close to the top?
 

4runnerteq

Explorer
I dont wanna cause crap with your dealer, cause I work for a dealer, but, He could get the clutch covered if he wanted. Did you buy from and do you have service done there? People dont realize just how much that helps. A few years ago if I remeber right I think there was a TSB for the clutch coming apart. I cld ck if you want. And, contact toyota consumer assistance 800-331-4331 if you cant get any help thru the dealer
 
The problem is that i bought the Truck in Central California and am now in the portland area. Been going back and forth with the salesman. he says that he can "help" with labor if i bring it to him but other than that they cant do much. I'm calling toyota consumer service and bitching today.

foster
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
I don't know that you'll get much help unfortunately, being that it is a wear item on an over gross tacoma with bigger tires especially. It's much like asking them to cover brakes on the same rig. While you are clearly under the gross combined weight rating (which is the important number in my opinion), dealers are almost always going to look for a way out of warranty work.
I hope you do get help, but personally I would suck it up and install a quality heavy duty aftermarket clutch that will likely work much better for you. Lower axle gearing would help in the long run as well. I'm just not a fan of replacing junk factory parts that wear out quickly with more of the same. If they do it and cover the full cost it may get you by another year, but I wouldn't split the cost for another short term solution.

Good luck either way. If you end up looking for a drivetrain shop, I really like automotive drivetrain in tigard oregon, southwest side of the greater Portland area.
 

4runnerteq

Explorer
[dealers are almost always going to look for a way out of warranty work.

Ya know? I dont usually say anything. But I take offense to that statement.
Do you work at a dealer? And if so is your dealer not wanting to pay for warranty work? In many if not even most cases , the warranty work is the easiest to get and pays about the same as retail and we dont have to listen to some cry baby wah wahin about how much it is. Everyone wants to slam the dealer but its the first place you go when you need help on something you or some jack *** down the street tore up for ya. Its money coming in to us from the manufacturer, why would we turn that down? That stupidist thing Ive ever heard.
 
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brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
I did work for a dealer and they constantly looked for ways out of warranty work. The factory paid a fraction of what the shop billed consumers, and there is plenty of work and a LOT of dealers in the area from the same manufacturers (at least four from any given manufacturer within 20-30 miles). Lately I have had very good luck one Jeep dealer locally, others not so much. Just voicing my own experience, no need to get emotional.

And for me, I only go to the dealer if my rig is mostly stock or its an obvious mechanical problem that I haven't caused. I've replaced everything I've worn out (ball joints, control arms, tie rod, drag link, track bars, drive shafts etc) with stronger aftermarket parts on my own, I wouldn't expect the dealer to fix what I messed up with 35s and other mods. They rebuilt my manual trans because synchros were messed up from day one and progressively got worse. The other issues I caused and fixed.

The clutch has always been excluded from warranties on the vehicles I've owned. If a dealer fights to help him, great. But they are very busy around here and I'm sure that's an uphill battle for little profit. Just being realistic. I agree that 36k miles is very early for a clutch to wear out like that but officially Toyota has no obligation to fix it.

[dealers are almost always going to look for a way out of warranty work.

Ya know? I dont usually say anything. But I take offense to that statement.
Do you work at a dealer? And if so is your dealer not wanting to pay for warranty work? In many if not even most cases , the warranty work is the easiest to get and pays about the same as retail and we dont have to listen to some cry baby wah wahin about how much it is. Everyone wants to slam the dealer but its the first place you go when you need help on something you or some jack *** down the street tore up for ya. Its money coming in to us from the manufacturer, why would we turn that down? That stupidist thing Ive ever heard.
 

tanglefoot

ExPoseur
The Centerforce clutches have been kind of the standard in aftermarket clutches. You could consider their "dual clutch" version, for extra holding power, but the "Centerforce II" seems most recommended for 4x4/towing applications.

https://www.centerforce.com/prolducts/clutch-and-flywheel-comparison

You're sure it's not just an adjustment issue? On the 1988 Toyota RV (original clutch, BTW), it was feeling like the clutch was about done (not grabbing till the top of the pedal stroke) but a simple adjustment on that threaded link on the pedal assembly put the grab point back near the bottom and made it feel like a new clutch again.
 

abeaudin1971

Adventurer
I had an 09 2.7 5spd 4x4 with a flippac on it and in a heavy headwind the clutch started slipping. Badly. @ 60k km, (a little over 40k miles)

No rough driving, stock tire size.

I replaced the clutch at my cost (1400) and replaced the vehicle shortly thereafter.

It might not help you to know but you aren't alone.
 
The day before the clutch started really slipping I drove for 6 hours with a 35 mph head wind. I never even got going fast enough to use 6th gear....

Interesting. Looking into getting a center force clutch this week.

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