xjnm
New member
Below is how I built my pop up camper that also functions as a roll bar. I have been mulling this design over for a few years and I'm stoked to have it to the point where I can share it!
First, I'd like to say a big thank you to @Ripcord for his thread on Tacomaworld "How to: DIY Wedge Camper Build". He is a skilled engineer and I used a lot of ideas from that thread. I won't repeat anything from his thread, instead, I will focus on what was unique about my build.
My goal at the beginning of this project was to make a camper whose frame also functioned as a roll bar. The frame started with this roll bar portion.
I used angle iron to bolt the frame to the bed. The rest of the frame slowly took shape.
This was the finished frame. You can see the kickers which strengthen the roll bar, and the frames for the side windows. (More on the windows later).
I painted the frame using Raptor Epoxy primer. I don't have a spray gun so I just brushed it on in multiple coats. It has been a few months now and I am very pleased with the durability and finish of the epoxy paint. It is a smooth, semi-gloss coat and lays on nice and thick.
Next, I cut the sheet metal that was going to form the sides and back. I got all the sheet metal and windows from an out-of-business camper shell factory that was liquidating their stock. It was very fortunate timing.
The camper started to take shape! I installed the front facing slider window first, and then put the frame back on the truck and installed the sides and back. I used a combination of 3/16 and 1/8 rivets to fasten the sheet metal and windows.
One thing that I would do differently next time: For the window frames, I would pre-drill the holes on a drill press, then weld them onto the main rack. Drilling the holes with the frame already welded on sucked. I sealed all the seams with RTV.
Side windows installed (They are able to fold out and have bug screen behind the glass)
Back hatch (Ignore the rest of the stuff on top for now!)
Here is a closeup where you can see the trim that I used. The trim is held on with a few sheet metal screws. Next time, I would install the trim and the sheet metal together using rivets.
Installing the bottom of the tent frame. This is where I used Ripcord's ideas with the 80-20, Alupanel, etc etc. You can see the hole towards the rear where a hatch will be (Similar to GFC's transforma-floor). I made the tent section 8ft long so that I could buy materials in standard lengths. Make sure you put T nuts into the T slot for accessories and the Keder rail before you bolt everything together!
To install the T slot, I first drilled the holes in the frame and the Alupanel. I then threaded all the bolts to a T nut and installed them into the holes through the frame. I then had someone slide the T slot on slowly while I lined up the T nuts so that they slid right into place.
A view from the inside:
Here is the hatch that I built. More pics of how it works below.
Here you can see the brackets for the roof rails and the latches that I used.
Frame complete:
I used 120lb struts to help with the weight of the Thule box. The roof rails were made with angle brackets and 1x1 T slot tubing.
First, I'd like to say a big thank you to @Ripcord for his thread on Tacomaworld "How to: DIY Wedge Camper Build". He is a skilled engineer and I used a lot of ideas from that thread. I won't repeat anything from his thread, instead, I will focus on what was unique about my build.
My goal at the beginning of this project was to make a camper whose frame also functioned as a roll bar. The frame started with this roll bar portion.
I used angle iron to bolt the frame to the bed. The rest of the frame slowly took shape.
This was the finished frame. You can see the kickers which strengthen the roll bar, and the frames for the side windows. (More on the windows later).
I painted the frame using Raptor Epoxy primer. I don't have a spray gun so I just brushed it on in multiple coats. It has been a few months now and I am very pleased with the durability and finish of the epoxy paint. It is a smooth, semi-gloss coat and lays on nice and thick.
Next, I cut the sheet metal that was going to form the sides and back. I got all the sheet metal and windows from an out-of-business camper shell factory that was liquidating their stock. It was very fortunate timing.
The camper started to take shape! I installed the front facing slider window first, and then put the frame back on the truck and installed the sides and back. I used a combination of 3/16 and 1/8 rivets to fasten the sheet metal and windows.
One thing that I would do differently next time: For the window frames, I would pre-drill the holes on a drill press, then weld them onto the main rack. Drilling the holes with the frame already welded on sucked. I sealed all the seams with RTV.
Side windows installed (They are able to fold out and have bug screen behind the glass)
Back hatch (Ignore the rest of the stuff on top for now!)
Here is a closeup where you can see the trim that I used. The trim is held on with a few sheet metal screws. Next time, I would install the trim and the sheet metal together using rivets.
Installing the bottom of the tent frame. This is where I used Ripcord's ideas with the 80-20, Alupanel, etc etc. You can see the hole towards the rear where a hatch will be (Similar to GFC's transforma-floor). I made the tent section 8ft long so that I could buy materials in standard lengths. Make sure you put T nuts into the T slot for accessories and the Keder rail before you bolt everything together!
To install the T slot, I first drilled the holes in the frame and the Alupanel. I then threaded all the bolts to a T nut and installed them into the holes through the frame. I then had someone slide the T slot on slowly while I lined up the T nuts so that they slid right into place.
A view from the inside:
Here is the hatch that I built. More pics of how it works below.
Here you can see the brackets for the roof rails and the latches that I used.
Frame complete:
I used 120lb struts to help with the weight of the Thule box. The roof rails were made with angle brackets and 1x1 T slot tubing.
