Compressor Mount
- Thread starter ClearwaterScott
- Start date
Jwestpro
Explorer
I could grab some photos for you as mine is exactly that, a factory tank which is easily mounted on USA passenger side using the factory mount points. I'm guessing this is because RHD builds swap several things which is why we still find redundancies left and right. My compressor is under the hood, basic air line heat resistant to run past engine and then outlets running to rear and also coming out of front location.
Because the line is essentially part of the 'reserve' tank space, you can have the compressor come in as a T intersection or any other idea to have an outlet along the line somewhere. It just seemed obviously convenient to have an outlet next to switch and gauge.
Mine however was first set up as switch, gauge and outlet at left rear cargo cubby, then we moved to underwood, I can't recall where compressirvwas first located though LOL ling time ago !
Jwestpro
Explorer
Along similar lines of fitting things where they don't belong, I want to relocate my window washer bottle from idiotic location in lowest left corner of bumper to somewhere higher/inside engine bay. I noticed some space in my LR3 on passenger side between headlamp and air box. I've also read about people downsizing to an older defender smaller bottle size but that was in a disco 2 I think.
Anyway, it occurs to me that if you relocate your spare to a bumper swing arm, and don't plan to add a fuel tank, you could put the dual compressor in the spare tire space along with many other things. A box could be made to keep out road grime especially winter chemicals.
Maybe that's crazy ... I just finished a 7% IPA on an empty stomach waiting for my homemade frozen soup to thaw
Anyway, it occurs to me that if you relocate your spare to a bumper swing arm, and don't plan to add a fuel tank, you could put the dual compressor in the spare tire space along with many other things. A box could be made to keep out road grime especially winter chemicals.
Maybe that's crazy ... I just finished a 7% IPA on an empty stomach waiting for my homemade frozen soup to thaw
Victory_Overland
Explorer
I've always thought about a bolt up compartment back there or a hinged skid panel that drops down.
I have a small washer bottle on the drivers side area behind the headlamp. And yes, the Defender bottle works from what I am told from Lucky and TR.
I have a small washer bottle on the drivers side area behind the headlamp. And yes, the Defender bottle works from what I am told from Lucky and TR.
anyone do this? I need to move mine which is in the drivers side Box where the 2nd battery goes currently along with the winch solenoid. Both need to move out in order to fit a 2nd battery.
I have the 3rd row and need to keep those, i was thinking about pulling apart the drivers side plastic in the load area and seeing if i could fit it in there. then i just need to run new air lines for the lockers up front.
Any pictures would be helpful as well.
I have the 3rd row and need to keep those, i was thinking about pulling apart the drivers side plastic in the load area and seeing if i could fit it in there. then i just need to run new air lines for the lockers up front.
Any pictures would be helpful as well.
DVD
Adventurer
Looks like you have an LR3. I'm not sure of the context of this thread and haven't read all the previous comments.
I have an ARB compressor under in the hood in my LR3. I have a dual battery setup, so no room in the extra battery compartment.
The compressor shoe-horns in front of the battery. It's a good addition. I prefer it to schlepping a PowerTank in and out worrying about keeping it topped up.
I have an ARB compressor under in the hood in my LR3. I have a dual battery setup, so no room in the extra battery compartment.
The compressor shoe-horns in front of the battery. It's a good addition. I prefer it to schlepping a PowerTank in and out worrying about keeping it topped up.
Ray_G
Explorer
Like others, I've got a dual battery opposite from my primary (in the side with the brake lines). I also have a compressor (a single, think it's a TJM based off color-it's been a bit since I grabbed it in Abu Dhabi). As the pictures note I managed to also squeeze my NOCO into the space. Winch solenoid is buried in the winch bumper with the plug wired bulkhead mounted there. Annoying washer bottle is in the stock location, as I didn't want to fiddle with that-yet (that time may come, to fix the asymmetry of my bumper).
My point; with limited space I think folks have to prioritize what needs to go where.
-Dual battery setups, unless you are running small aux batteries, tend to lend to using the opposite side space. Excellent kits like the traxide and the fact that stock factory tie down components all reinforce that.
-Underhood compressors pretty logically fit forward of the aux battery in that space.
-Winch solenoids could, with a little fab, be remoted there (i.e. where my NOCO is since that is n/a in my application).
*Any disconnect switch really should be tucked away but outside; what's the point of a disconnect if you have to pop the bonnet open to use it?
Just my $.02 regarding prioritization and the attributes of the truck's as they exist.
r-
Ray
My point; with limited space I think folks have to prioritize what needs to go where.
-Dual battery setups, unless you are running small aux batteries, tend to lend to using the opposite side space. Excellent kits like the traxide and the fact that stock factory tie down components all reinforce that.
-Underhood compressors pretty logically fit forward of the aux battery in that space.
-Winch solenoids could, with a little fab, be remoted there (i.e. where my NOCO is since that is n/a in my application).
*Any disconnect switch really should be tucked away but outside; what's the point of a disconnect if you have to pop the bonnet open to use it?
Just my $.02 regarding prioritization and the attributes of the truck's as they exist.
r-
Ray
DETOUR-GP
Rockstar
If I mount the battery isolator switch in an accessible location, lock the car and isolate the battery... what will the alarm do when i unisolate it? any idea?
Ray_G
Explorer
I don't think I'd do that with an LR4 just because they love their voltage regularity-if you want to defeat thiefs and such why not isolate the fuel pump instead of the battery writ large?
ColoDisco
Explorer
I don’t know why but have always felt under the hood was a bad location for a compressor. I know the p38 Range Rover has them in that location (and they tend to fail there). I believe the heat in the engine bay has a negative effect on some accessories. My plan as of now is to try and mount a arb twin behind the right rear internal trim panel. Seems like ample space. As I have a front runner drawer setup I can trim the plastic and hide the setup under the drawer side panel.
DETOUR-GP
Rockstar
Yeah thats why I have not done that. Its not really defeating thieves - if they want my car they can have it, insurance gives me a new one with all new accessories - haha!.... I work as an expat engineer and my car gets parked for 2 months at a time and to be honest I am tired of having to disconnect and reconnect battery terminals every time. I have now wired 2 isolator switches up front under the hood (1 for main and 1 for secondary). So the process now is open hood, isolate batteries, close hood, get in through the back door and lock 2 fronts, lock opposite rear, get out and hold the handle to lock the rear door... This still leave the trunk door unlocked but with the spare wheel carrier i park up against the wall and therefore a person cannot get in.
Was hoping that if i could just isolate with the car locked it would make my parking up process easier.
Victory_Overland
Explorer
Just one of a few steps I’ve always done with all vehicles that have a clutch switch is to make it a hand press button by relocating it from the clutch pedal and putting it somewhere else that only the owner knows the location. Finger press it to start the vehicle and it acts as a poor mans ignition kill switch. I do this on my motorcycles too although most just get picked up and tossed in the back of a truck these days when stolen.
Anywho, the brake switch is easily disconnected from the back of the pedal and acts the same way and we know nothing happens on the truck without that thing. Lol. It can’t be used as a dead man switch but for long term parking it’s another hinderance for a thief.
Just one of many steps I use on my LR3.
