Critique My Diagram, Baja Designs LP6 and LP9 Lamps

[Betarocker]

Hello. Please critique this diagram. For Baja Designs LP6 (1 pair) and LP9 (1 pair) lamps. The Diagram is for one pair of lamps. A second exact one for the 2nd pair of lamps.



A few notes.

- Low beam power must be off when high beam is powered. Warning on manufacturer's literature.
- DRL must turn off when high or low is powered to lamps, Causes back feeding and flickering if DRL has power and either high or low circuits energized. Found this out when tried wiring to manufacturer's basic diagram.
- Want to use vehicle's high beam circuit to control LP6/9 lamps. I don't want to be flipping 8 switches when need to dim to low beams
- Want option to shut of DRL if not wanted (dark mode)
- Want option to only use vehicle's lamps (no LP6/9 on with high beams)
- The Hi-OFF-Lo switch is 25A rated; higher than current when lamps produce max load.
- Want the DRL to turn of when key is turned off. I haven't found a dedicated circuit which would trigger when vehicle shifted out of park.
- Wiring will be 10 awg from battery until it splits before the H-O-L switch, and then 12 awg. Only the DRL circuit and trigger circuits are 16 awg.
- Trying to keep most everything inside the cab.

Vehicle is a 2016 Ford F350 4wd diesel.

Many thanks.

Julius

 

[Betarocker]

Well, wired it up, and it does as intended.

I only used the ON-OFF-ON switch because I had them, but would just use am ON-ON switch if I had to buy.

Will still want to find a signal wire which registers "Out of Park" or "In Gear" for my DRL signal. Anyone know which/where it is?

 

[Betarocker]

Well, figured out the wiring to turn on the DRLs when shifting out of PARK. Wire a SPDT relay with key switched power going to #30 and 85, SEIC Blue/grey wire to 86, and power out to (in my case on the diagram above ) Acc/Run on the switch. I still need to wire it up as I only did a test with alligator clips and test light.

 

[velogeek]

I personally don't like running anything though an in-cab switch that is more than a couple amps... the extra 8-10 feet for the in and out adds a lot of length to the circuit and typically requires stepping up a wire gauge or so. I attached a diagram I made for myself with a quick edit to add your DRL trigger relay up top because I just planned on switched DRLs (green from switch straight to lights) instead of triggered via relay - mostly because I have a Jeep and when I add high clearance fenders, I'll just pipe the factory DRL signal to the lights. I have it all ignition switched by default so I'm not worried about leaving circuits on.

The ON-OFF-ON switch keeps DRL and lights separate with the option to black out and the SPDT relay keeps the Hi (NO terminal) and Lo (NC terminal) circuits separate. By leaving the Hi/Lo switch in Lo (off), I would have the option for controlling the pattern with the truck's lights or I can flip it over and force Hi.

Ultimately this was all for naught because I went with a Switch Pros unit but still, should do what you're looking to do and you'd just need to run the three trigger wires through the firewall to an under-hood relay block. I've pre-wired several trucks with Ancor signal cable for this purpose as it's 8 color-coded 20AWG wires in a single sleeve that routes super nicely and leaves lots of room for future expansion. Super easy to seal around it for waterproofing that way and no wrapping harnesses.

 

[Betarocker]

Thanks. I did originally have the relays all in the engine bay and only triggers going through the firewall, but due to some missing information from BD, I needed to figure something else out to make everything work. Also, the climate I live in is wet and I have had corrosion on contacts over time. The engine bay on my truck is so full that it's difficult to find enough room to mount a pair of relays, let alone 6 ( 2 sets of lamps). All the wires are in looms through the main grommet, and waterproof shrink tube on all exterior connections.