CUCV M-1009 Baja Chase/ pit support and Camping Project.

[etech]

SO far ( knock on wood) the 10 bolts have held up, granted I'm worried that they are the weak link in the system, but being a cucv, it has a 6.2 diesel, which is not exactly a power house, and I do not take this rock crawling, this is a desert trail, and chase truck for our race team, and I take it easy with it. It see's gravel roads, slow whoop sections, silt beds and sand, with a little more sand.

I am currently building a 14 bolt for the rear and I have a 44 8 lug for the front, ( which is not much better) but the plan is to do a 60 for the front. Being a military truck it is totally striped, so there is not too much weight.

What I am looking for is any good ideas for storage as well as how durable the roof top fiberglass housing tents are. low profile is a goal to help with mileage, I know that 39" tires and low profile along with mileage are words that are strangers in the same sentence unless talking about what can not be done. but as is I get 13 to 20+ mpg with it now.

at first I wanted to run 37" tires, but I decided on the 39" tires as that what our race truck uses and we get them for a good price, we use take off's from the race truck. I also have to run BFG tires due to the fact were sponsored by bfg, and I work bfg pit services so Military goodyears are not a option for me )o;@

Id like to keep the spare tire in the cab, but a 39" tire takes most all the room so most likely I'll have to go to a swing out tire carrier, which once I accept the notion of the idea, then it will be a good place for other items, I just want to keep most of my gear secured inside the cab, so as to keep it from walking away in baja while parked for contingency or a dinner at a taco place.

I also would like to be able sleep 2 guys in it while were pitting the baja races. I'm planning a water tank for 2 uses, 1st will be water injection for the diesel once I install my Banks turbo kit, and the other is to wash our hands and clean up ( maybe shower ect.) with at races or while camping. I need to develop a 12 vdc system from the 24vdc system it currently has Or just convert it to 12vdc.

I also plan on adding a Air compressor, as Im toying with the idea of trying air suspension with 4 links front and rear. ( we shall see on this) and of course a crossover steering system, as if the was any other option for Chevys. I just have a different way to do it or at least going to try and solve the headache associated with doing a crossover on a chevy.

As for electronics I have a a couple inverters for 110vac sources, a full set of gauges EGT, Boost, tranny temp ect, all the others that are needed, Lowrance HDS gps, a Icom ham radio, and a Motorola VHF radio or 2, Sony head unit and Audiobahn carbon fiber speakers.


I also got a air conditioner from another GM truck that Im thinking about installing. I have a stereo and need to incorporate this into the storage bins as well. Along with tool bags, impact guns, chargers, lights, oils and fluids as well as a fridge/ice chest recovery gear, and most other items that we would require at a baja race, and also planning on another fuel tank. I would like to carry somewhere from 60 to 100 gallons of diesel.

These are my goals,and its a hard goal to reach, ( I know I should have gotten a sub I could easily fit it all it a sub) and this seems to me like this is the place that I can get the info needed to reach these goals, so any ideas I'm always open. I don't see to many CUCV's or K5's so Im hoping any one here with ideas can help. thanks.

 

[etech]

here is what I am starting with.

1986 USMC cucv M-1009, with 40K miles on it, had a 6.2 Detroit diesel, th-400, 208 t case, and 3/4 ton rated ( still weak imo and 6 lug) military axles with " gasp" Gov lock in the back. Sure wish it had M-1008 axles on it.

I checked all the fluids, and all were clean and brand new ( sorta scared to see this, maybe hiding a problem, but then I remembered that the military is great at redundant maintenance )

When I picked it up, it came with 35" good year MTR's on it with no lift and some one really did a hack job trimming the front fenders so the 35" tires would simi clear with out too much rubbing.

I put 2 batteries in it and it fired right up after have been sitting for years, then drove it to the fuel station, topped it off and drove it home. Filled it up when I reached home, and was surprised and happy to see that I averaged 22.3 mpg driving at about 55 mph on California highway 95.

Problems at this point, intermittent brake lights, no turn signals, no head lights missing the horn button, Badly cracking dash due to sitting in Kuwait for about 8 year, broken rear glass and no internals for the rear window, tons of sand in the cab, and a brushed painted coyote colored front fender on a woodland camo paint scheme.

 

[bob91yj]

Cool to see you here. Knowing a little bit about your fab skills and way of doing things, I'm looking forward to following this build and seeing the truck in action south of the border.

 

[etech]

First on the list, I tackled the electrical issues. found no fuses where fuses should be, had a Gen 2 light on, then later a gen 1 and gen 2 light on. a few blown out bulbs and a damaged fuse terminal in the fuse block. I own a small lighting company and raided some of my stock which netted me a fist full of LED replacement bulbs. I though these would last longer as it dose vibrate quite a bit due to the diesel. I also grabbed a set of HID high and low beam lights for the front and a pair of replacement non sealed beam headlights. Now I have lights and can see the road great at night..

a trip to the DMV and with a little convincing that it was ok to register this truck it did not need a smog check in California due to it was diesel, and the disbelieving DMV lady that a 1986 blazer had never been registered tell 2010, and I was the first registered owner. a little song and some sweet talkin' and I had license plates.. Now where to mount them?

 

[etech]

Thanks Bob. Im sorta excited about this one and since you know J.T and his blazer, which was sorta my inspiration, Its a project that I have wanted to do for some time, Its going to be one of the most simplistic builds I have done in some time, but as with most projects it too will take time, and only limited by available time and of course spare money. Its the mechanics car that dose not run right due to him always working on other peoples car and no time for his own, so perhaps is too the fabricators truck. Time shall see..

 

[etech]

The tire rubbing was driving me crazy, so I called ORD and they assured me that the majority of the problem was, as with all straight axle chevys the axle sits closer to the fire wall then the center of the wheel well. so a quick credit card transaction and I had their Zero rate 1" leaf spring kit and new u bolts on the way. I installed them and moved the axle forward 1.5 inches. This solved all my tire rubbing issues, with 35's that is...

Next up body work and paint...
I like camo and OD green as much as the next red blooded American male, but the brushed tan fender was driving me crazy, ( Im sorta of a perfectionist.) also there was chips and dings and small dents over most of the body as well as the fiberglass was starting to show through the paint on the fiberglass top. So over the next few days I became good friends with my body hammers and dollys, and with a little gentle persuasion and some not too gentle moments, a few skim coats of filler and a whole lot of clean up work on the the previously badly cut fenders, and it was ready for paint.

I also filled in the large gaps in the back top area of the fiberglass top which proved to be a bad idea as now it has some hair line cracking there.

a trip to the local paint supply store for some good ol' highly toxic CARC paint, and wallah it be flat black. I sorta have a thing for black cars. :wings:

:smiley_drive:​

all was ok for a while and I drove it around and took a few trips to the desert and with a few jeep buddies, while I tried to figure my long term goals for this project.

​

Next up tires and wheels that did not brake the bank...

 

[Metcalf]

SO far ( knock on wood) the 10 bolts have held up, granted I'm worried that they are the weak link in the system, but being a cucv, it has a 6.2 diesel, which is not exactly a power house, and I do not take this rock crawling, this is a desert trail, and chase truck for our race team, and I take it easy with it. It see's gravel roads, slow whoop sections, silt beds and sand, with a little more sand.

The 10 bolt front isn't a bad axle. In my younger years I participated in abusing my fair share. With the u-joint caps tacked in place and some tight wheel bearings they held up really well to a LOT of abuse with 35s.

Its kinda like polishing a you know what, but 10-bolt with a good quality plate truss would probably last a LOT longer than most people would think, even in a go-faster type vehicle.

I am currently building a 14 bolt for the rear and I have a 44 8 lug for the front, ( which is not much better) but the plan is to do a 60 for the front. Being a military truck it is totally striped, so there is not too much weight.

If you have the tools ( which it sounds like you do ) you might think about building a 14-bolt with 9" big bearing ends. With a little work you can keep it 6 lug and match the width of the front you end up running. Even a ford 9" with the axles redrilled to 6 lug might be worth thinking about too.

A 60 front is nice, but dang are they HEAVY! As long as the vehicle stays fairly light I wouldn't worry too much about getting a 60 under it. If you find one for a great deal I wouldn't pass it up, but I don't think its absolutely required.

What I am looking for is any good ideas for storage as well as how durable the roof top fiberglass housing tents are. low profile is a goal to help with mileage, I know that 39" tires and low profile along with mileage are words that are strangers in the same sentence unless talking about what can not be done. but as is I get 13 to 20+ mpg with it now.

My general advice is to stay far away from bolting stuff to the roof. I still haven't seen a setup that was light enough it didn't negatively effect vehicle dynamics.

I understand the big tire thing

at first I wanted to run 37" tires, but I decided on the 39" tires as that what our race truck uses and we get them for a good price, we use take off's from the race truck. I also have to run BFG tires due to the fact were sponsored by bfg, and I work bfg pit services so Military goodyears are not a option for me )o;@

Personally I think full size trucks work better with more tire as long as you keep the height down to an absolute minimum. It looks like you have done that. I like the balance in clearance gains that a larger tire provides, as well as the added floation in vehicles that are pushing 7000+ lbs like my Dodge.

Id like to keep the spare tire in the cab, but a 39" tire takes most all the room so most likely I'll have to go to a swing out tire carrier, which once I accept the notion of the idea, then it will be a good place for other items, I just want to keep most of my gear secured inside the cab, so as to keep it from walking away in baja while parked for contingency or a dinner at a taco place.


I was able to stand up a full size 38"+ tire against the drivers bed rail in my truck. In this position it doesn't get in the way 99% of the time. I can' see it in my rear view mirror for the most part. It basically uses mostly wasted space on the floor. I did have to tilt the tire in at the top and out at the bottom to get it to clear the top.

I imagine that you don't have as much room as my truck. Best thing you can do is get a spare and start trying it in a lot of different positions. Most of that is free.

If it doesn't bother you, you could also just carry a spare tire without rim. The tire could go on the floor. The empty space in the tire could be used to spare gear inside. Soft storage bags make this much more possible. You could also store a spare rim in another location. the bonus being that you CAN use the space inside the tire for storage. A 39" tire will hold a LOT of stuff! Depending on the flat the tire can be used or the tire and the rim after putting it together with some spoon bars.

I also would like to be able sleep 2 guys in it while were pitting the baja races. I'm planning a water tank for 2 uses, 1st will be water injection for the diesel once I install my Banks turbo kit, and the other is to wash our hands and clean up ( maybe shower ect.) with at races or while camping. I need to develop a 12 vdc system from the 24vdc system it currently has Or just convert it to 12vdc.

The simplest plan is usually the best. Perhaps a simple platform over the spare tire storage laid on the floor. Gear bags can be on the sides so they don't get in the way.

If the seats fold or slide forward the sleeping platform could expand over the front area in a few minutes.

I also plan on adding a Air compressor, as Im toying with the idea of trying air suspension with 4 links front and rear. ( we shall see on this) and of course a crossover steering system, as if the was any other option for Chevys. I just have a different way to do it or at least going to try and solve the headache associated with doing a crossover on a chevy.

OBA is a good idea. The 6.2 might have enough room for a york.

I would try and keep the suspension as simple as possible. While leaf springs are not the fancy option, a good set of spring and shocks will do more than most unboxed frames can handle.

As for electronics I have a a couple inverters for 110vac sources, a full set of gauges EGT, Boost, tranny temp ect, all the others that are needed, Lowrance HDS gps, a Icom ham radio, and a Motorola VHF radio or 2, Sony head unit and Audiobahn carbon fiber speakers.

Its only money

I also got a air conditioner from another GM truck that Im thinking about installing. I have a stereo and need to incorporate this into the storage bins as well. Along with tool bags, impact guns, chargers, lights, oils and fluids as well as a fridge/ice chest recovery gear, and most other items that we would require at a baja race, and also planning on another fuel tank. I would like to carry somewhere from 60 to 100 gallons of diesel.

Lately I have been digging on the idea of using an ARB style fridge as a center console. Icy cold beverages are right there where you need them. Perhaps even a modular system so you could bolt in a small 3rd seat if you need it on the every day grind.

These are my goals,and its a hard goal to reach, ( I know I should have gotten a sub I could easily fit it all it a sub) and this seems to me like this is the place that I can get the info needed to reach these goals, so any ideas I'm always open. I don't see to many CUCV's or K5's so Im hoping any one here with ideas can help. thanks.

Not many people take the time to build old iron anymore....let alone take there time and do it right. If you keep going like I have seen so far you will be fine.

Best of luck.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I DD a 1028. Good luck with your 1009. You should post your build thread here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/

Lots of helpful threads if you search.

You've got some pretty ambitious goals for your truck. Looking forward to the build progress. That turbo will likely cost what you paid for the truck.

 

[etech]

I DD a 1028. Good luck with your 1009. You should post your build thread here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/

Lots of helpful threads if you search.

You've got some pretty ambitious goals for your truck. Looking forward to the build progress. That turbo will likely cost what you paid for the truck.

Im a member at steel solders too, however this seems to be the place where I can find info to reach most of my goals, I do frequent steel solders especially when I need tech info on my cucv which is where that forum really shines...

and your are almost exactly right about the turbo costing as much or more then the blazer. I'm a Banks dealer, and they offered me a pretty good deal, but one can almost always do better if patient and willing to do some work, so I thought Id check on ebay and found a partial kit for about 600 bucks. but it was missing parts.

Im in the process of building the parts its missing,( like oil lines, drain back, down pipe and exhaust, and air cleaner assy) the turbo also had about 20 thou slop, so tore it down to pieces and into the glass bead blaster it went, then after a while of small parts and smaller tools I rebuilt it and now is nice and tight and spins perfectly.

I'm trying to find some one that will ship high temp ceramic powder to me, but most company's are scared as it starts to set up in the low 100's and were at about 115 to 119 currently. I'm starting to build a 3" down pipe to a 4" straight pipe that I will tig weld up and will be held together with turbo v clamps, the tube I'm using is 304 stainless and then I'm hoping to ceramic coat it black. if I can get the powder, other wise will have to wait tell winter or just run it bare.

The picture is what the turbo looked like before I did work to the turbo

Any one can turbo a 6.2, but they loose some durability when doing so. My main goal is to make this truck ultra reliable by doing it right the first time, so what with a 22.5 to 1 comp ratio, and then adding 15 +/- psi of boost 6.2 head gaskets like to give out which there is never a good time for that. With that said, and after talking with Heath performance up in Washington, ( who specializes in the 6.2 and 6.5 ) I am putting 6.5 head gaskets with steel o-rings, match porting the heads, and holding it together with apr head studs. Which are all sitting on the work bench, I'll be sure to post pics when I start working on that part of it.

sorry, I'm jumping ahead...

 

[etech]

If you have the tools ( which it sounds like you do ) you might think about building a 14-bolt with 9" big bearing ends. With a little work you can keep it 6 lug and match the width of the front you end up running. Even a ford 9" with the axles redrilled to 6 lug might be worth thinking about too.
__________________________________________\
I dont mind the 8 lug, and I want to keep it a full floater, I'm trying to build this so that almost any one on any budget can replicate it if they so desired, with that said, few car argue that its hard to beat a 14 bolt for cost to strength, they are porky and have a mean lip but the lip can be shaved,

A 60 front is nice, but dang are they HEAVY! As long as the vehicle stays fairly light I wouldn't worry too much about getting a 60 under it. If you find one for a great deal I wouldn't pass it up, but I don't think its absolutely required.
_________________________________________
your absolutely right about that, they are very heavy, to the tune of 600+ lbs. I have got one in the works but its not in my hands yet, so tell then its gonna run a dana 44 8 lug.


My general advice is to stay far away from bolting stuff to the roof. I still haven't seen a setup that was light enough it didn't negatively effect vehicle dynamics.
_______________________________
I like the idea of being able to sleep in the cab, but I saw some pics of the fiberglass enclosed roof top tent and man that seems like a good idea, to some degree. I'd like to hear from others before I order one up though. and your correct it will kill my already bad drag coefficient.

I understand the big tire thing
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thats great, I think most like them but most think in order to fit them you have to go high, I build race trucks, they are very low, very wide and run huge tires, so I really like that look,

Personally I think full size trucks work better with more tire as long as you keep the height down to an absolute minimum. It looks like you have done that. I like the balance in clearance gains that a larger tire provides, as well as the added floation in vehicles that are pushing 7000+ lbs like my Dodge.
_______________________________
Were on the same page here. But I fear my cucv will be pushing that 7000 pound mark when done too. hopefully not.

I imagine that you don't have as much room as my truck. Best thing you can do is get a spare and start trying it in a lot of different positions. Most of that is free.
__________________________________
the tire when vertical hits the tail gate and the top of the rear seat do to the rear seat back inclination, and the tail gate will not close, its also only about 2 inches away from the roof of the blazer, when laying down it touches the tailgate and the rear seat, but fits nicely. Im still very much debating on doing a swing out spare tire carrier. don't really want to do it, but the benefits are hard to deny.


The simplest plan is usually the best. Perhaps a simple platform over the spare tire storage laid on the floor. Gear bags can be on the sides so they don't get in the way.
______________________________
this is on the same lines that I'm thinking...

If the seats fold or slide forward the sleeping platform could expand over the front area in a few minutes.
_________________________________
they do and this is a great idea thanks.


OBA is a good idea. The 6.2 might have enough room for a york
__________________________
for oba, I used to really like the the little V-twin ac pumps from the dodge demon's and Plymouth dusters, and such, they worked really well and had constant oil on the crank. but may go electric as I have 2 alternators, 2 batteries ( maybe 3 to 4 under the hood later) and soon a a/c compressor, and a turbo under the hood. space is starting to get tight


I would try and keep the suspension as simple as possible. While leaf springs are not the fancy option, a good set of spring and shocks will do more than most unboxed frames can handle.
____________________________
your right about this too, but being a engineer its more not to have it but because I can so to speak.. its something I have been wanting to try for some time again simplicity may prevail on this. though I wanted to play with my spring base as to make it so the center of the cab is the softest point of the suspension and not the rear bumper like so many other 4 linked trucks.

one of the pictures below is of a ford ranger that I used to race, that had a 64" deaver rear leaf set up with 22" travel, we beat linked guys all day long with that truck. the other picture is of a unlimited truck we did, that has 39" tires, is 90" wide, and though its bottomed out, you can see it sits low any way.



Its only money
_________________________
ya, but again its a budget build, at least trying to keep it that way. the Lowrance GPS is a staple and almost a requirement in baja and that was the most expensive part, the icom is a 2200h, and they are not too bad. While the Motorola radios are spendy new, ( about 2500 each, ) we bought a bunch at auction from a sheriff station that was upgrading their equiptment for about 150 bucks each. The speakers are top shelf units, but are no longer made so I got them new in the boxes for about 300 for 4x 4". 2x 6x9's and a 12" sub.



Lately I have been digging on the idea of using an ARB style fridge as a center console. Icy cold beverages are right there where you need them. Perhaps even a modular system so you could bolt in a small 3rd seat if you need it on the every day grind.
_________________________
I really think that would be very nice also, I do want the ability to have 4 seats in it at times, but when in baja I rarely need more then 2. it would mostly be around town here,


Not many people take the time to build old iron anymore....let alone take there time and do it right. If you keep going like I have seen so far you will be fine.

Best of luck.[/QUOTE]
________________________________
thanks again, I have been reading the mog and dodge build you have done, very nice. I like old trucks, and really like the idea of building fun rides with not too much cash. anyone can build a truck with tons of cash. Its more of a challenge to me this way. and will be a fun project. any one have any suggestions to add I'm always looking for suggestions.

 

[etech]

Back on track...
it started to get warm here in Blythe ca, so I figured I'd try my hand at window tinting... Well I learned that its best left to the pro and Im not the pro, years of sand and dirt proved to be hard to get the tint on with out some of it creeping up into the tint. but its on and will need to be redone soon but will work for now, which a couple days after I did the tint, I helped my brother in law move and it got a couple deep scratches... oh well...

I also went to B&B auto salvage in 29 palms ca, by the Marine base, and scored a tail gate, window and crank all for 150 bucks.. and the really neat thing is my cucv key works the the lock on the tail gate. Score... so now I can lock it up.

Looking at the cracked dash got old ( see I try not to watch shows like Monk, as I'm afraid he will point out things that I'm missing.. and my ocd will kick in. :Wow1: )
so cleaned it up, and looked in to replacing the dash pad, then when saw the price, I ordered a nice dash mat. I painted the OD green dash flat black and the trim and door panels coyote tan.

next up tires and wheels, I have a friend that had some cadillac escalade 17" wheels but only had 3, which he gave me. Then I found 3 more at a used tire store for 200 bucks, now I have 6, but none fit, correct 6 lug, but too small to pass over my locking hubs up front...

So we chucked them up and bored them out.

Then I tried on 37" bfg krt's, then some 37" projects, and I really liked them, but we can not get great deals on them, so I know we can get great deals on 39" projects, so I got a set mounted, and thought there is no way they will fit, but they did, and the rest is history, tell I mount my 8 lug axles and have to buy new wheels.

 

[locrwln]

I like what you are doing and look forward to the progress, but man does it ever sound like you are stuffing 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag. :sombrero:

Good luck.

Jack

 

[Metcalf]

I dont mind the 8 lug, and I want to keep it a full floater, I'm trying to build this so that almost any one on any budget can replicate it if they so desired, with that said, few car argue that its hard to beat a 14 bolt for cost to strength, they are porky and have a mean lip but the lip can be shaved

I do agree. I have been looking for a 2003 GM 14-bolt with the factory disc brakes ( with internal hat style parking brake ) for my Dodge.

thats great, I think most like them but most think in order to fit them you have to go high, I build race trucks, they are very low, very wide and run huge tires, so I really like that look,

the tire when vertical hits the tail gate and the top of the rear seat do to the rear seat back inclination, and the tail gate will not close, its also only about 2 inches away from the roof of the blazer, when laying down it touches the tailgate and the rear seat, but fits nicely. Im still very much debating on doing a swing out spare tire carrier. don't really want to do it, but the benefits are hard to deny.

your right about this too, but being a engineer its more not to have it but because I can so to speak.. its something I have been wanting to try for some time again simplicity may prevail on this. though I wanted to play with my spring base as to make it so the center of the cab is the softest point of the suspension and not the rear bumper like so many other 4 linked trucks.

I work as am ME too ( but in boring industrial pipeline business ). I understand the drive to constantly improve something. If that is your thing than that is your thing. I will be looking forward to seeing what you do. However, it is a slippery slope and you might always be building and not running. That is generally a shame....

ya, but again its a budget build, at least trying to keep it that way. the Lowrance GPS is a staple and almost a requirement in baja and that was the most expensive part, the icom is a 2200h, and they are not too bad. While the Motorola radios are spendy new, ( about 2500 each, ) we bought a bunch at auction from a sheriff station that was upgrading their equiptment for about 150 bucks each. The speakers are top shelf units, but are no longer made so I got them new in the boxes for about 300 for 4x 4". 2x 6x9's and a 12" sub.

Oh I hear you. Budget. Its hard to write out a list of equipment like that and talk about keeping a budget though.


thanks again, I have been reading the mog and dodge build you have done, very nice. I like old trucks, and really like the idea of building fun rides with not too much cash. anyone can build a truck with tons of cash. Its more of a challenge to me this way. and will be a fun project. any one have any suggestions to add I'm always looking for suggestions.

No problem. The Dodge has exceeded my expectations. I probably only have 6K in the truck now plus LOTS of labor. It does everything I ask of it. The Mog project is still in the 'planning' stage

Keep up the good work. Post some detail photos of the work your doing, not just overall shots of the vehicle. I know I would like to see more of the details.

 

[tcdent]

I could probably come up with responses to each one of your points, because your project is so similar to the goals I have with my M1009, but I'll just pick one.

You really caught my interest with the airbag suspension idea. I've got similar plans for a front and rear suspension inspired by all of the desert guys I hang out with, but like you, have some different requirements. The front will be pretty straightforward: a 3 or 4 link with a panhard bar on 3.0 coilovers. Because I plan on carrying a varied load (fuel, water, tools, light towing) I want a rear suspension capable of handling it. I'll keep it leaf-sprung (progressive) along with a bell crank setup to carry the airbags and shocks for packaging reasons. I'm not against putting the shocks through the floor, but the largest airbags I can find only pull 11" of travel, so I figure paralleling them on the same structure makes sense. I'd like to get crafty and build a little progression into the ratio, but this is already getting a bit skunkworks.

I'm curious if you've found any desert-oriented trucks with airbag suspensions in your research; I've never seen it. I have seen the sand cars with King shock/airbag combos, but they're not easily available and are most likely outside my budget. Some of the slower-moving guys include removable pins and plates that the airbags whack into when the suspension compresses, but that just won't hold up to speed.

 

[Metcalf]

What are the true measurements of the 39" project tires? I would have loved to find a cheap set for my Dodge a few months back!