Hey. I've got a 2013 Subaru XV Crosstrek and I'm looking for ideas (pics) for a sleeping platform in the back. It's big enough to sleep in (I've done it) however I want to build something a little more substantial for longer trips. I've got a flatbed trailer and a roof basket that I use to store most of my kit so the interior can remain clean and open. I've seen lots of pictures of the inside of trucks, vans and SUV's but few pictures of what people have built in their wagons and CUV's.
CUV or Wagon Sleeping \ Storage Platforms
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calicamper
Expedition Leader
Cot with the seats down, or just get a new T@G and be done with it. Roof height is too low to get crazy building a platform especially if all your gear is in the trailer.
Low profile cot and a coleman LED lantern and your set.
Low profile cot and a coleman LED lantern and your set.
Last week I borrowed a friend's Forester wagon for a road trip, and wanted to be able to sleep in back. Sounds like you are wanting to build something less "quick and out of scraps" than I did, but anyway...
I imagine this is true for many small wagons nowadays, but when the seats were folded down there was (just) six feet of length, but it was not level. The folded seat back is higher and not level. There is also the "hole" forward of the seat cushion just behind the front seat back.
What I did was cut a length of 1/2" plywood that went the whole distance (happened to have a 24" wide scrap, and I have a 25" wide REI self-inflating sleeping pad so that worked). I set it in back and made a couple of of cuts so it would clear the driver/passenger console (the rear part projects into the back), then "balanced" it on the high point, which was part of the folded seat back. I wanted to keep it as low as possible for "headroom." I then cut some scrap 1 x 2's and made "side rails" that I screwed into each side of the plywood from the "teetering point" back. This stiffened the ply plus helped to level it out and support it. I further leveled it by putting some small wood block/scraps under the 1 x 2's at the very back. That settled everything from the mid (high) point back. For the front I put a spare cooler in the "hole" (footwell) and loaded it up with spares/tools that had been there already. Then I taped up an Amazon box that happened to be just the right size to set on top of the cooler and support the forward end of the plywood at the "flat" height. Since this would be the head end it didn't need to support too much weight (but was surprisingly sturdy anyway - I did "land" there when crawling between back and front when rest area or Wal-Mart "camping").
I cut sections of pool noodle and slipped them over the front and back edges of the plywood, since they could conceivably contact the hatchback liner or the front seat back and I didn't want to make any marks.
Side bonus was I was able to reinstall that little "roller shade" thingie that covers over the back area (slept with my feet at that end) and it made a great little privacy shade plus I just stuffed my bedding under it during the day. Taped a couple of navy blue pillowcases in the side/rear windows and away I went. It turned a mult-day trip into a fun thing instead of a torture fest of trying to sleep with the driver's seat reclined (ugh!) (I hate motels).
I'm sure you want to do something better/more permanent (I would have if it had not been a borrowed car), but figured I'd toss this out there as it certainly did work well for the time/money I put into it (about 45 minutes, all scrap wood). If nothing else it could be a "mock up" to try out at first maybe.
I did have to run with the passenger seat fairly far forward (I was solo though). I probably could have come up with a hinge or something on the platform if I had wanted to put that seat further back.
I imagine this is true for many small wagons nowadays, but when the seats were folded down there was (just) six feet of length, but it was not level. The folded seat back is higher and not level. There is also the "hole" forward of the seat cushion just behind the front seat back.
What I did was cut a length of 1/2" plywood that went the whole distance (happened to have a 24" wide scrap, and I have a 25" wide REI self-inflating sleeping pad so that worked). I set it in back and made a couple of of cuts so it would clear the driver/passenger console (the rear part projects into the back), then "balanced" it on the high point, which was part of the folded seat back. I wanted to keep it as low as possible for "headroom." I then cut some scrap 1 x 2's and made "side rails" that I screwed into each side of the plywood from the "teetering point" back. This stiffened the ply plus helped to level it out and support it. I further leveled it by putting some small wood block/scraps under the 1 x 2's at the very back. That settled everything from the mid (high) point back. For the front I put a spare cooler in the "hole" (footwell) and loaded it up with spares/tools that had been there already. Then I taped up an Amazon box that happened to be just the right size to set on top of the cooler and support the forward end of the plywood at the "flat" height. Since this would be the head end it didn't need to support too much weight (but was surprisingly sturdy anyway - I did "land" there when crawling between back and front when rest area or Wal-Mart "camping").
I cut sections of pool noodle and slipped them over the front and back edges of the plywood, since they could conceivably contact the hatchback liner or the front seat back and I didn't want to make any marks.
Side bonus was I was able to reinstall that little "roller shade" thingie that covers over the back area (slept with my feet at that end) and it made a great little privacy shade plus I just stuffed my bedding under it during the day. Taped a couple of navy blue pillowcases in the side/rear windows and away I went. It turned a mult-day trip into a fun thing instead of a torture fest of trying to sleep with the driver's seat reclined (ugh!) (I hate motels).
I'm sure you want to do something better/more permanent (I would have if it had not been a borrowed car), but figured I'd toss this out there as it certainly did work well for the time/money I put into it (about 45 minutes, all scrap wood). If nothing else it could be a "mock up" to try out at first maybe.
I did have to run with the passenger seat fairly far forward (I was solo though). I probably could have come up with a hinge or something on the platform if I had wanted to put that seat further back.
Jwestpro
Explorer
Interesting. I sleep in my wagon all the time on solo trips but it's a lot longer I guess, and almost perfectly flat. These are two things I verify before buying a vehicle that I find just as important as comfort and ergonomics of driving seat position.
All that work with plywood is cool but I don't like to ad anything that is not also useful in some other way, like if you could incorporate a camping table into being used for leveling the sleep area, or similar idea for dual purposing.
I actually cannot imagine cramming into a Crosstrek or Forester though due to length. Well, the newest Forester might be long enough as they seem to have grown over each generation.
For any of you, using the ceiling grab handles can make for great storage or hanging clothes or "curtains" or storing long things like a cross country ski and poles. I use a webbing strap with metal slide lock looped handle to handle, front and middle. Then I use varying lengths of bungee cords (the ones with the simple metal hooks which can be bent to desired shape if necessary), use the bungees along the roof line starting mainly at 2nd row roof grab handle back to little ceiling hole where many cars have a mount hole for cargo area load protection netting. There will be a little metal catch inside that is perfect for the metal bungee hook. This becomes great for drying clothes, hanging a "curtain", etc. Another can be strung from roof hole to cargo floor tie down ring. Use a dremel or drill to put holes in ideal locations for similar purposes, measure many times/test bungee lengths, then drill
The above is only part of my interior mods to make a 2008 BMW 535 wagon a mini-stealth sleeper I usually have with me an ARB freezer fridge run off 2nd deep cycle battery and/or a mtn bike INSIDE with seat and front wheel removed all to driver side of center leaving sleeping half unblocked. Plus summer or winter gear bag, food bag, camera case, tripod, tent, sleeping bag, tool kit, etc.
Slept inside on last winter trip in ND -15F each night...
All that work with plywood is cool but I don't like to ad anything that is not also useful in some other way, like if you could incorporate a camping table into being used for leveling the sleep area, or similar idea for dual purposing.
I actually cannot imagine cramming into a Crosstrek or Forester though due to length. Well, the newest Forester might be long enough as they seem to have grown over each generation.
For any of you, using the ceiling grab handles can make for great storage or hanging clothes or "curtains" or storing long things like a cross country ski and poles. I use a webbing strap with metal slide lock looped handle to handle, front and middle. Then I use varying lengths of bungee cords (the ones with the simple metal hooks which can be bent to desired shape if necessary), use the bungees along the roof line starting mainly at 2nd row roof grab handle back to little ceiling hole where many cars have a mount hole for cargo area load protection netting. There will be a little metal catch inside that is perfect for the metal bungee hook. This becomes great for drying clothes, hanging a "curtain", etc. Another can be strung from roof hole to cargo floor tie down ring. Use a dremel or drill to put holes in ideal locations for similar purposes, measure many times/test bungee lengths, then drill
The above is only part of my interior mods to make a 2008 BMW 535 wagon a mini-stealth sleeper
I usually have with me an ARB freezer fridge run off 2nd deep cycle battery and/or a mtn bike INSIDE with seat and front wheel removed all to driver side of center leaving sleeping half unblocked. Plus summer or winter gear bag, food bag, camera case, tripod, tent, sleeping bag, tool kit, etc. Slept inside on last winter trip in ND -15F each night...
I hear you! My former wagons (years ago) were also bought with those criteria in mind, and had nearly seven feet of flat-as-a-pancake space in back. Great roadtrippers! This car was a 2014 Forester borrowed for a quick trip. The plywood I cut was just about exactly 72" long, so there is that much space with the front seat fairly far forward.
I didn't have that in mind for this trip, but it's a good idea. Possibly the ply strip (which was basically 24" x 72") could have been pulled straight back out the hatchback (leaving one end supported in the car) and the end propped up to make a table or workbench (low, granted).
Yeah, this was a "bloated" 2014 model (not that I was complaining since it was a great ride for an impromptu road trip). I also had a 12-volt cooler-style refrigerator along (behind driver's seat) so it was pretty comfy. Made me wish I had my old wagon back! I will say it was totally stealth - shoot, it was so "generic" I could barely find it myself in a parking lot
Jwestpro
Explorer
That's a great idea, sliding out to use as a table! What to bring along as the legs...? Hmmm. Must have at least 2 uses
A folding chair that you could then sit in, too bulky. Highlift jack! About those "12v coolers, I know they are cheap and easy to buy, but they are a great way to have food that is actually not cold enough and also kill the battery at the same time. And, you get to pay for these features
An ARB costs 8x as much, but it's worth 100X super low amp draw, extremely efficient such that it doesn't need to run very often, and will actually be a freezer if desired, can be plugged into 110 also. I find it's level of importance next in line after a spare tire.What to bring along as the legs...? Hmmm. Must have at least 2 uses
Minimum!
About those "12v coolers, I know they are cheap and easy to buy, but they are a great way to have food that is actually not cold enough and also kill the battery at the same time. And, you get to pay for these features
I guess I used the wrong term - what I have is a Dometic CF-50 which I believe uses the Danfoss compressor. This was actually my first trip with it. My only complaint/question was that the temperature display seems somewhat "disconnected" from what is going on inside. Say I set the temp for 19º and then drove for ten hours (so you know it's getting good power), well, the display would show 32º. I put in a stand-alone temperature probe and that showed that the inside was actually closer to 10º (so "off" but in the opposite direction from the display). This doesn't seem right for such a sophisticated/expensive unit, so I will be investigating. I may end up with a different one, as I find this feature highly annoying - reason I went for the Dometic was I wanted a lid that opened "cooler style" as opposed to "end-wise." Okay, well I shoudn't hijack this thread into coolers, so I'll stop now, but it was a lot nicer than dealing with melt-water!