D2 rear storage rack build

[LandyAndy]

Am building my D2 storage rack now, pic's posted over on OLC forum... will keep that current as I progress.

Linky : http://www.overlandcanada.com/forum/showthread.php?t=698

Andy

 

[AZUnlimited]

Looks pretty good!! I'll be tracking your progress. Any ideas how much it will roughly weigh when all said and done.

 

[LandyAndy]

Am trying to keep the weight down by not 'sticking a brace' everywhere. Would have been nicer to make out of Ali but we only have one fab shop in town and they fix logging equipment mostly.... and I don't have an AC tig yet.... that's on the long term shopping list along with the plasma & x/y table for it.

Will measure up the tube & do an estimate once I finish it. So far the draw slides are the heavyist bits.

 

[cpg]

That is very nice. I am heading in the same direction.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Cool man. That's very similiar to what I've been planning for my D2. Only difference is that the deck won't be as tall (no fridge) and I'd like to incorporate some kind of rollover protection. Like a roll hoop at the front.

Actually... it started out that I wanted a serious cargo barrier. Not like the flimsy "dog guards" many are using that will just tear out the mountings in an accident. The cargo barrier morphed into "well, why not make it roll-over protection as well?".

But looking at yours, maybe I should back-track a bit and just make a "good enough" solid cargo barrier. It would be a lot easier.

 

[LandyAndy]

I thought about that and decided if I needed a rear hoop then what I really need is this :

http://www.ppcages.com/displayimg.php?url=pages/gallery/landrover/main/023.jpg

So, went with the storage rack.....

 

[LandyAndy]

Posted some new pics.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Couple questions. Why use the turnbuckles, instead of just welding tabs on the bottom to take the bolts from the original tie-down points? That's what I was planning on doing. Remove the original D-rings, and use those bolts holes to clamp tabs on the cargo system. Second, what's the plan with the cubby boxes? You made them hard to access?

 

[LandyAndy]

Hi Rob,

I wanted it easy removable (no tools) so I went with the turn buckles. Side bins are going to remain at present but I might install OBA into one of them (LHS) and keep the other (RHS) for general junk or take it out as I can get another water/fuel can in that location.

Couple of pic's here for those not registered on OLC.

It's come a bit heavier than I first expected but I'd rather have a secure load and not multiple projectiles in the truck. There was one lighter gauge in tube available but the saving wasn't worth getting it in special order as my local (one & only) fab shop never uses it.

It's also a good excuse to switch out the old 3.9 for a hot 4.6 at a later stage. If anyones got a 4.6 crank & set of rods let me know, need them for my engine rebuild :drool:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Roughly how much does it weigh now?

I'd add some triangulation to the two outer sides. Doesn't have to be heavy. Just some tension members going from the lower, rearmost point on the outside boxes, to the upper forward point of those boxes. Just to prevent it "matchboxing" in a frontal. I see the little gussets you added, but it's not enough.

 

[LandyAndy]

Roughly how much does it weigh now?

I'd add some triangulation to the two outer sides. Doesn't have to be heavy. Just some tension members going from the lower, rearmost point on the outside boxes, to the upper forward point of those boxes. Just to prevent it "matchboxing" in a frontal. I see the little gussets you added, but it's not enough.

Haven't weighed it and will have to workout from the material used. I could carry it myself if my arms were long enough...

If I add more diagionals I can't get into the storage bin loc'n on the RHS, could add some strip stock on the LHS but it is hard against the back of the rear seats also. Might see if I can add some tabs into the rear top seat belt mounts to secure it more, maybe a couple of extra turnbuckles would do the trick there.

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Tyeing it into the rear upper seatbelt points would be a great option. Or, run the diagonals, but terminate them bellow the top of the side storage bins. It won't be ideal, but better than nothing.

But, the upper seatbelt mounts are designed and tested for 3000lbs of force each, so not a bad plan.

 

[LandyAndy]

The headache rack is directly in line with the rear top belt mounting bolts, so, a pair of angled brackets & some tabs should get it secured nice.

Pic's to follow once I get them made.

Looked at bolting it down to the floor again as well but I'd need to cut the carpet or lift it each time I want to use the tie downs as the bolts are under it. So, will get some slightly heavier turnbuckles & quick links plus the bolted top mounts.

 

[LandyAndy]

New upper brackets made... pic's on OLC... next it's off to the painters for powdercoating :drool:

 

[R_Lefebvre]

Looks pretty decent. If I'm seeing it right... I think in a heavy frontal it might move, tweak, but probably won't let go. The bolt that you're using, is that the OEM bolt?

I imagine you arranged it that way so as not to have to hack up your trim piece?

Actually, do you see about 6" behind each of those seatbelt anchor points, there is a weld-nut to which nothing is mounted? That's were the LR Accessories Dog Guard bolts. If you used that location in addition to the main seatbelt anchor, by welding another piece of strip... hard to explain, but your bracket would look more like an L... Anyway, that would help stabilize your bracket to prevent it twisting. And it would be hidden behind the trim panel. Sounds like it's too late for you (off to powdercoat), but I might do that when I make my cargo system.