"Add Lightness" - Colin Chapman
I recently did some calculations for another member interested in a very similar project. Using DIY composite SIPs, the weight was under 300 pounds for an empty shell with the following dimensions: (design type is slide in, pop top, like 4WC or Alaskan)
120" long roof, including cabover bed
70" long base for use with a small pickup
60" overall height with roof collapsed
78" inside with roof raised
Roof weight is under 50 pounds = no lift cylinders or tracks needed. Get inside and do a squat press.
Weight assumed full panels, i.e. no soft top fabric, water tanks, appliances, internal furniture, mattress, etc., It is literally just a SIP shell with a manually lifted roof.
Foam used for modeling was 1" thick XPS in 1.5 PPCF density. This is a lightweight non-structural foam, to save space and money. I am not suggesting that you go this route, just giving you an example from some drawings that happened to be sitting on my desk. Radiant barrier coatings work well in small spaces and reduce the need for thick walls, which add cost, weight and reduce interior volume. There are 100 ways to skin this cat.
If you are handy, have some tools and a place to work, you can build this camper pretty easily. Depending on your budget and skill set, angle, channel, mouldings, and even pre-made SIPs can be purchased. A local machine shop can brake 16-18 gauge sheet metal cheaper than you can buy pre-made angle iron in many cases. Heavy gauge material is not needed to keep brush off and seal up joints.
Avoid wood if at all possible. It is heavy, it rots, bugs eat it and it molds and warps. Ask anyone who has ever attempted to restore an old Alaskan or a 70s/80s RV.