DIY base plate for interior cabinetry

[RandyC]

I'm looking at trying to make an interior cabinet system using aluminum, something like 80/20. I'd start with a base plate, and attach the cabinetry to that ....something like this:

tacoma-system-base-plate-long-bed

Has anyone tried this yet? seems DIY with a couple of 'precision cut' 4x8's glued at the seam, and a can of bed liner.

Thoughts?

 

[Ducky's Dad]

Looks like the linked plate is just a sheet of plywood with a coat of bedliner and some anchors. For $700. $700???

That seems to qualify as just plain nuts. It would be easy to template the truck bed with luan strips, much as you would for a countertop. Then just cut the plywood to match the template and biscuit join or spline the joint to span the bed in both directions. Piece of cake. The Goose website says they use 12mm Baltic birch, which is nominally 1/2". I'd probably go with marine plywood or a product like Xtira panels, and maybe thicker than 1/2" depending on how you plan to build the rest of the system. Xtira is heavy, but otherwise nice to work with and completely waterproof.

 

[RandyC]

I was shocked to see the price. I've worked with marine grade of course, but will check out Xtira. I wonder though where it bolts onto the truck bed. do they use the bed mounts, and get longer bolts?

 

[Ducky's Dad]

I wonder though where it bolts onto the truck bed. do they use the bed mounts, and get longer bolts?

Goose has two drawings in the link that show bolt locations. Just compare that to Taco bed, see if they align. When I bolted drawers into my Dodge bed, I just put the holes where I wanted and used backing plates under the bed.

 

[s.e.charles]

I genuinely don't see the affection people have with Baltic/ Russian birch plywood. yeah, I get it's available "locally", but just like an 'all-you-can-eat' buffet, doesn't necessarily mean you should. meranti, okoume, and a bunch of other woods AND adhesives would be better suited and cost competitive from an individual's use. and what happens to all the convenient holes when the goop is applied? are they drilled oversize to accommodate the bed liner? are they left bare to absorb water? are they clogged and must be reamed by the end user. ponder that one for a bit, sports fans ….

 

[Ducky's Dad]

what happens to all the convenient holes when the goop is applied?
If bed is protected by a camper shell, shouldn't make too much difference. If not, still not an issue if OP uses Xtira, because it's waterproof enough to use for garage doors. I would locate and drill all the holes before coating the base, test fit, apply coating, then redrill to whatever finished size I need. Seal each hole with black RTV silicone as anchors or bolts are inserted, same as mounting a rack to roof of a shell. Should also work fine with marine plywood. I suppose OP could also use Starboard, but that stuff is about $100/sheet. Could eliminate bedliner step that way and save a few bucks there.

 

[s.e.charles]

the xtira website indicates it's a composite which makes me question its ability to resist anything other than compression.
from the website:
For Best Results

For best results, allow Extira to acclimate to the conditions it will be used in for 48 to 72 hours before final application or fabrication of a product using Extira. When designing products made with Extira, always allow for the natural expansion or contraction of Extira due to changes in its moisture content and assess interaction with other components in the final product. Like other wood composite material, the moisture content of Extira will change based on the ambient relative humidity and environmental conditions to which it is exposed.

starboard is probably more stable and less likely to require additional coating. I don't know how slippery it would be if it became wet.

for any vehicle application, I would certainly consider the application same as an "exterior". if it did happen to stay dry, all the better.

Q: if a single sheet of any material were to be fastened to a pickup bed, would the material be expected to flex with the bed or simply fastened in a way which would allow it to slide/ float above the bed?

 

[Ducky's Dad]

Q: if a single sheet of any material were to be fastened to a pickup bed, would the material be expected to flex with the bed or simply fastened in a way which would allow it to slide/ float above the bed?
I wouldn't expect anything like this to float or slide. I would expect it to flex with the bed, but not much, because the bed is small and has ribs stamped into it for stiffening. The Xtira info is legalese to cover their butts. The moisture content of your 2x4s or plywood will also change "based on the ambient relative humidity and environmental conditions to which it is exposed." Wood shrinks when it dries out, swells when it absorbs moisture. Composites will expand/contract depending on their material content and size. Even cellular PVC shrinks and swells with temperature changes, although it is completely impervious to moisture penetration. When you install hardwood or bamboo flooring in your living room, you need to let it acclimate to the surroundings before you start nailing it down. Nature of the beast.

 

[nastav]

LOL @$700 for that thing.

 

[s.e.charles]

another interesting observation which someone with greater depth of knowledge may validate or discount: if the base plate is made from Baltic Birch plywood, it must be seamed to get a length or width greater than 60".

that may account for some of the cost. I doubt there's much warranty if the seam were to "un".

 

[Ducky's Dad]

it must be seamed to get a length or width greater than 60".

Seaming is as simple as routing grooves into each mating edge, inserting a marine plywood spline with a little epoxy or TiteBond, and then pulling the pieces together for a while. Less than an hour if you have the tools and materials, even less in a commercial shop.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

the xtira website indicates it's a composite which makes me question its ability to resist anything other than compression.

Since this discussion is primarily about a base plate for cabinets, then resistance to compression is perfect. I would not use Xtira to span any great distances because that's not what it's designed for, but it would be good for base plate use. Expansion/contraction is normal for almost all building materials, and there will be enough flex on Xtira or plywood or StarBoard to accommodate whatever goes on with the steel bed. When I first encountered Xtira a few years ago, I was skeptical about its water resistance but there are a number of high-end (expensive) garage doors who are using this stuff with good success. There are now other manufacturers who are making similar products.

 

[s.e.charles]

if it's for the OP's Tacoma, a substantial amount of the bed is some type of composite (not steel). base material suitability may depend on the intended fastening method. I would imagine there will be some type of physics involved with the cabinets once they get installed and the vehicle begins to start, stop, and turn corners. sheer, torque, tension. maybe none or all three. was never my strong subject.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

Did not know Tacos had plastic beds, never owned one. Should not be a problem if the bed is actually usable as a truck.

 

[s.e.charles]

it must be seamed to get a length or width greater than 60".

Seaming is as simple as routing grooves into each mating edge, inserting a marine plywood spline with a little epoxy or TiteBond, and then pulling the pieces together for a while. Less than an hour if you have the tools and materials, even less in a commercial shop.

maybe if it were coming from Mister Geppetto's workshop, but for the price marked I would want a proper 1:8 scarf joint.