Dometic CFX 35 fridge testing and dual battery system setup (VSR vs Ctek).

Hey all,
New to this forum but not new to forums in general, have used this place for a long time to help with research and information and decided it was finally time to give back.

I have been using a Dometic CFX 35 for the past year now and wanted to give everyone the exact run cycles and consumption that it has been typically using. I did my testing using two different multi-meters for accuracy, and each has a clamp for measuring amperage as well. I do have an insulating/protective cover on my fridge.

I live in Arizona so the normal temps throughout much of the year are pretty hot. In real conditions during the hot part of the day (90+ degrees) this fridge consistently runs for 7 minutes at 3.5 amps and then has a no-run period of 28 minutes. This is for a fridge setting of 34 degrees F. That puts the cycle at 35 minutes, so basically it runs for about 12 minutes an hour at 3.5 amps. This puts it's average hourly draw at 0.7 amps. That is in hot weather on a pretty low setting (I like my drinks COLD), so I would bet you could get that to 0.5-0.6 amps pretty easily in cooler temps. As far as I know that is lowest actual amp draw per hour that I have seen in a fridge this size. It goes without saying that those measurements are after the fridge has been brought to temp and contents are cold (like during your initial drive).

The CFX line is a little nicer than the older Dometic fridges; better molding, better lid, easy control panel, normal low voltage settings, interior LED, exc. The only negative I have observed is a slight clunking from the compressor when you hit bumps. Apparently this is common because under their FAQ's they address it as normal. I find it mildly annoying. Otherwise fridge works great.

I have used a couple of different dual battery charging systems and my latest is the Ctek D250S DC to DC charger. For a while I used a typical VSR from TrueAM' and that worked fine, but of course didn't ever really want to charge my AGM battery much above 80% charge or so. My Frontier has a startup voltage of about 14.2, and then settles into around 13.8, so it doesn't really put out a high enough voltage for the VSR to give the battery that final charge. The Ctek works well, simple, 5 stage charger, delivers a max of 20 amps and boosts the voltage to around 14.4 depending on temperature and battery type. Also is an MPPT solar charge controller so all you need to do to use your solar panels is plug them onto the Ctek. Seems to work as advertised, typically delivers 19.7 amps to my aux battery in hot middle of the day conditions, and then slowly decreases amps as battery get's closer to full charge. Some users report that if you mount this in your engine bay it gets too hot and doesn't perform well; this seems about right as the manual says that it prefers temperatures under 120 degrees F, so something to think about.

Well, thanks for reading this write up, hopefully it will help some folks down the road. I typically keep my battery in a Minnkota battery box (best $50 bucks ever), which I place in a rolling tool box along with the Ctek. The fridge is sometimes in the cab on a slider and sometimes in the bed of the truck, just depends on the trip. Thanks again!


IMG_1987.JPGIMG_2434.JPGIMG_2435.JPG
 
Nice, thanks.

How does the cycling change putting down to single digit F freezer mode?

Haven't tested the cycle for that as I don't typically keep it set that low while camping. Obviously it takes at least a couple hours to get an idea of the cycle, so I have only had the patience to sit there a few times while out camping and hunting staring at it and keeping track of the time. I can certainly try it in my garage - which is pretty hot during the day - to get an idea for you. I am guessing that once it reaches it's set temp and all the contents are frozen that it's run time will only be marginally longer, but that is just my guess.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
That would be great if you get a chance when it's not too much trouble. 85% full water bottles pre-frozen in the main fridge will speed up that slow initial stage.
 
That would be great if you get a chance when it's not too much trouble. 85% full water bottles pre-frozen in the main fridge will speed up that slow initial stage.

Well, I was woefully off in my estimate that there wouldn't be a huge change, there was. Set at 5 degrees F the fridge ran for 21 minutes and had a no run period of 9 minutes. It was 93 degrees in my garage during this test. This means the fridge was running for 42 minutes of the hour, which equates to 2.45 amps per hour. Still not bad in the grand scheme of things but certainly a big difference.
 

Scoutman

Explorer
Interesting. I love my CFX-35 and have also been running it for over a year. Thanks for posting some real world numbers.
 

Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
I have the CFX-35 also in my Jeep going around Africa.

It's often well over 100F in my Jeep - probably even over 120F a lot of times, and this fridge is a trooper.
Never misses a beat, always perfect. I have not measured the current draw, though based on my batteries I figured it was very low.

Highly recommend this fridge!

Question for IAm_Not_Lost - did you use the thermal cover on the fridge during the test? I am certain it makes a noticeable difference.

-Dan
 

Josh41

Adventurer
So, I just bought a CF40, should be the same guts. I plugged it in to 120V and used something called a Kill a Watt Meter. It gives me a direct reading on amps at 120volts. The numbers are low, but when I convert it to what the draw would be from a 12v system, it looks terrible.
So, when cycling, it says it is using 0.55 amps at 120 volts. This converts to 6.07 amps at 12v. When idling between cycles it uses 0.15 amps at 120 volts, converting to 1.66 amps at 12v.
This is much higher than I expected and that others have reported. Does the CF40 use extra energy when using 120V and converting is not realistic?

The Kill a watt meter said I used 0.08 kW in 11 hours. Using a calculator, going from 120v to 12v is and then converting to 12v amps, it came up to approx 55 amps in 11 hours. Also seems really high.

Some facts: Fridge sitting in 69 degree house.
Plugged into 120v wall socket.
A few water bottles
Set at 38 F
Seemed to cycle for only a few minutes per hour while I was in the room.

If anyone can shed light on this I would appreciate it.

Next step is to plug into camper with full battery and see how it does over night. I don't have an 12v amp meter, I can just use voltage meter to see how the battery does in this instance.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
So, I just bought a CF40, should be the same guts. I plugged it in to 120V and used something called a Kill a Watt Meter. It gives me a direct reading on amps at 120volts. The numbers are low, but when I convert it to what the draw would be from a 12v system, it looks terrible.
So, when cycling, it says it is using 0.55 amps at 120 volts. This converts to 6.07 amps at 12v. When idling between cycles it uses 0.15 amps at 120 volts, converting to 1.66 amps at 12v.
This is much higher than I expected and that others have reported. Does the CF40 use extra energy when using 120V and converting is not realistic?

The Kill a watt meter said I used 0.08 kW in 11 hours. Using a calculator, going from 120v to 12v is and then converting to 12v amps, it came up to approx 55 amps in 11 hours. Also seems really high.

Some facts: Fridge sitting in 69 degree house.
Plugged into 120v wall socket.
A few water bottles
Set at 38 F
Seemed to cycle for only a few minutes per hour while I was in the room.

If anyone can shed light on this I would appreciate it.

Next step is to plug into camper with full battery and see how it does over night. I don't have an 12v amp meter, I can just use voltage meter to see how the battery does in this instance.

The only number out of all that you just posted that I even halfway trust is the total kilowatts...and I'm not too sure about that one...

120v? Really, that's what the voltage actually is at the receptacle in your house? That would be unusual.

12v? At 12v, your battery would actually be down almost 50%.

Try re-running the numbers using more realistic values, like 115v or 110v (or whatever the actual voltage is at the receptacle in your house) and 12.5v.



Let's look at that kilowatt number...

1kw is 1,000w. So 0.8 would be 800w and 0.08 would be 80w.

24 hours ÷ 11 hours = 2.19
80w x 2.19 = 175w

So 175w total consumption over 24 hours.
175w ÷ 12.5v = 14.5 amps total over 24 hours.

That seems low to me. And it's nowhere near the 55a in 11 hours number you came up with. (I just woke up and on my first cup of coffee...so someone should double-check my math. :) )


The real question is...how much time does it spend drawing 6a vs. how much time drawing 1.7a?
 
Last edited:

Josh41

Adventurer
Thanks for the feedback, yes, I think my actual voltage is about 117 according to the meter.

I wonder and have no idea, when the box is using AC, is it using extra (and wasting) to step down to 12v to operate the fridge?

I'll check again today and rerun numbers. I too was on my first cup of coffee when I was crunching numbers.
 
I have the CFX-35 also in my Jeep going around Africa.

It's often well over 100F in my Jeep - probably even over 120F a lot of times, and this fridge is a trooper.
Never misses a beat, always perfect. I have not measured the current draw, though based on my batteries I figured it was very low.

Highly recommend this fridge!

Question for IAm_Not_Lost - did you use the thermal cover on the fridge during the test? I am certain it makes a noticeable difference.

-Dan

Yes, I always keep the cover on. Sorry for the late reply. The cover is the best accessory that Dometic sells, super durable, prevents ton's of dings and dust. No idea how much it adds to the capability, but I think everyone should have one.

With that said, the numbers I got real world are pretty close to what Dometic advertises. Their testing probably wasn't in 90+ degree heat though, so I bet the cover equals that out.
 
So, I just bought a CF40, should be the same guts. I plugged it in to 120V and used something called a Kill a Watt Meter. It gives me a direct reading on amps at 120volts. The numbers are low, but when I convert it to what the draw would be from a 12v system, it looks terrible.
So, when cycling, it says it is using 0.55 amps at 120 volts. This converts to 6.07 amps at 12v. When idling between cycles it uses 0.15 amps at 120 volts, converting to 1.66 amps at 12v.
This is much higher than I expected and that others have reported. Does the CF40 use extra energy when using 120V and converting is not realistic?

The Kill a watt meter said I used 0.08 kW in 11 hours. Using a calculator, going from 120v to 12v is and then converting to 12v amps, it came up to approx 55 amps in 11 hours. Also seems really high.

Some facts: Fridge sitting in 69 degree house.
Plugged into 120v wall socket.
A few water bottles
Set at 38 F
Seemed to cycle for only a few minutes per hour while I was in the room.

If anyone can shed light on this I would appreciate it.

Next step is to plug into camper with full battery and see how it does over night. I don't have an 12v amp meter, I can just use voltage meter to see how the battery does in this instance.

I agree with the other posters, you need to actually know your exact voltage if you're going to use a watt meter, not just estimating. A multi-meter with a amperage clamp would be the best bet to get your exact amp draw during the 'on' cycle which is what we really want to know to estimate your battery consumption. You can find them very cheaply, 30-40 bucks.

When you test your battery after using it overnight make sure you check the voltage on the battery after it has been disconnected for about an hour to get an accurate voltage measurement, and then from there you can estimate the battery state of charge, and based on how many amp hours it is rated for you can then estimate how many amps your fridge used.

And actually, about the CFX line versus the CF line, they probably have similar guts, but the CFX uses a different compressor (is my understanding), along with other features. So you may have some efficiency differences.
 

DLTooley

Observer
So, I just bought a CF40, should be the same guts. I plugged it in to 120V and used something called a Kill a Watt Meter. It gives me a direct reading on amps at 120volts. The numbers are low, but when I convert it to what the draw would be from a 12v system, it looks terrible.
So, when cycling, it says it is using 0.55 amps at 120 volts. This converts to 6.07 amps at 12v. When idling between cycles it uses 0.15 amps at 120 volts, converting to 1.66 amps at 12v.
This is much higher than I expected and that others have reported. Does the CF40 use extra energy when using 120V and converting is not realistic?

The Kill a watt meter said I used 0.08 kW in 11 hours. Using a calculator, going from 120v to 12v is and then converting to 12v amps, it came up to approx 55 amps in 11 hours. Also seems really high.

Some facts: Fridge sitting in 69 degree house.
Plugged into 120v wall socket.
A few water bottles
Set at 38 F
Seemed to cycle for only a few minutes per hour while I was in the room.

If anyone can shed light on this I would appreciate it.

Next step is to plug into camper with full battery and see how it does over night. I don't have an 12v amp meter, I can just use voltage meter to see how the battery does in this instance.

I've observed the same thing on AC, with the CC40(the cheapest model). The methodology of measuring watts in AC is a little bit different, and I don't understand that. There will definitely be converter losses as the compressor is native DC. That's likely the most of of it. Measurements on DC are as you'd expect.
 

ajmaudio

Adventurer
I doubt the conversion is more than 85 percent efficient or so when plugged into AC... Use 90 percent if your feeling generous... So 10 -15 percent loss to heat while on AC.
 

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