Dual battery systems--->chevrolet

93BLAZER

Explorer
I have a 87 K5 Blazer, 12 volt system. I know this subject has probably been has been beaten to death here but I have a few vehicle specific questions here.

First and foremost, I have used the search function but could not find what I was looking for.

I want to run a dual battery set up, nothing special or exotic just real simple. I have two optimas, a multi battery isolator from Sure Power Industries (model 12023A) and plenty of heavy duty cable.

Do I need anything else?

What I need is a simple wiring diagram and any advise you may have to pass on.

Thanks in advance.
 

rugbier

Adventurer
You will need a management system for example

Position 1 = Both battery charging, second battery isolated from primary
Position 2 = Only Primary charged and used
Position 3 = Primary isolated , Secondary to Emmergency Crank

Then about the diagram is easy

From the vehicle both Ground and positive shall remain on Primary Battery
Then from the engative of primary to negative on secondary
Then from Isolator 1 wire to each baterry positive.

Depending on the management kit there is going to be wiring from the kit to the isolator and to a Key on hot

Hope this helps you
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
If the Sure Power unit is the diode type isolator that it appears to be I would encourage you to consider something else. Diodes have a "cracking voltage" that is a voltage drop. This results in the batteries never getting a full charge. There are ways to work around this, but then you have non off the shelf wear parts (alternator).

Hell Roaring, Nation Luna, Cole-Hersee, Blue Sea, and BEP Marine, that I know of, all offer varying better options. Which to choose depends on your desires and uses.

My own preference is a marine battery bank manual switch with a BEP Marine Voltage Sensing relay, but that suits my usual mode of operation the best and may not suit others.

If you're committed to using the Sure Power Isolator it should have a wiring diagram in the packaging. Usually the way those work is that the middle large terminal is connected to the alternator and each large end terminal is connected to a battery with the small terminal being the voltage sense terminal that the alternator needs to function at all, but confirm this before proceeding.
 
Try this:

DualBatteries.jpg
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
This switch:
http://www.boatersland.com/blu9001e.html

Combined with this VSR:
http://www.boatersland.com/bep710125a.html

My reading of the difference between the dual sense and the single sense VSR's lead me to believe that the dual sense has applications in boats where the battery banks are swapped out more frequently. I don;t plan to do that so a single sense VSR made the most sense to me. Not to mention that they are less $$.

The wiring is straight forward and relatively simple. The VSR's input comes from the vehicle stud on the battery switch and it's output goes to (in my case) battery No. 2's stud on the switch. I am designating battery No. 1 to be the primary starting battery and No. 2 to be the 'house' battery. Normal operation will see the switch set to No. 1 battery only, and I expect that it will stay on that setting 90% of the time.

The diagram above doesn't make sense to me. If I'm installing a second battery it is for 'house' type uses (lights, fridge, etc.) or for winching support. In either case I would not split out the starting chores from the rest of the vehicle's original needs. I would keep all of those demands on the original battery and leave the stock wiring alone as much as possible.
 

saburai

Explorer
Thanks!

This switch:
http://www.boatersland.com/blu9001e.html

Combined with this VSR:
http://www.boatersland.com/bep710125a.html

My reading of the difference between the dual sense and the single sense VSR's lead me to believe that the dual sense has applications in boats where the battery banks are swapped out more frequently. I don;t plan to do that so a single sense VSR made the most sense to me. Not to mention that they are less $$.

The wiring is straight forward and relatively simple. The VSR's input comes from the vehicle stud on the battery switch and it's output goes to (in my case) battery No. 2's stud on the switch. I am designating battery No. 1 to be the primary starting battery and No. 2 to be the 'house' battery. Normal operation will see the switch set to No. 1 battery only, and I expect that it will stay on that setting 90% of the time.

The diagram above doesn't make sense to me. If I'm installing a second battery it is for 'house' type uses (lights, fridge, etc.) or for winching support. In either case I would not split out the starting chores from the rest of the vehicle's original needs. I would keep all of those demands on the original battery and leave the stock wiring alone as much as possible.

Agreed.

I like your set up, do you have any pictures of your installation?

What do you think of the unit I linked to?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Right now it is all torn apart because it is being moved from the old vehicle to the FJ60. Only I've no place, yet, for a second battery in the 60 so it's shelved at the moment.

Your link is a handy part, but I'm not sure about the dual sense version being needed. It would be more fool proof as then it doesn't matter which way the switch is set so long as it isn't set on "both".
 
Last edited:

saburai

Explorer
Right now it is all torn apart because it is being moved from the old vehicle to the FJ60. Only I've no place, yet, for a second battery in the 60 so it's shelved at the moment.

Your link is a handy part, but I'm not sure about the dual sense version being needed. It would be more fool proof as then it doesn't matter which way the switch is set so long as it isn't set on "both".

Kinda of what I was thinking. Plus it's a nice little package...
 

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