Effective Oil Heaters?

[Schattenjager]

Searched around and did not find what I was looking for - I just put an oil pan heating patch on a few days ago and it gets really warm, but when I pull the dipstick and use the pyrometer on the oil, there is no indicated warming of the oil happening. Oil on the stick is the same temp as the bumper, even after running the heater for 3 hours.

Anyone have a better method? I run syn oil of heavier weight and the temps are already hitting the teens. I am about to drive out of Alaska and want a good way to keep things operational once I get into the Yukon Territory.

My 05 Tacoma had a great oil heater built in to the pan. I will have to search around to see if there one made for the 80 Land Cruiser... Till then, any ideas are appreciated.

 

[spencyg]

Any reason you're trying to heat the oil instead of the coolant? My diesel has a built-in heater which basically just replaces one of the freeze plugs...works excellent down to -20F.

 

[Schattenjager]

Any reason you're trying to heat the oil instead of the coolant? My diesel has a built-in heater which basically just replaces one of the freeze plugs...works excellent down to -20F.

I've always thought that a coolant heater was more for bringing up cabin temps quickly. In my limited abilities, I cannot see how a pocket of warm water (sans a circulation method and thermostat bypass of some sort) would assist cold starts or ease the first few seconds of oil circulation. Seems that warm oil would warm the engine more quickly and, more importantly, allow for better lubrication due to better flow. Wouldn't warm coolant leave the oil cold?

 

[762X39]

I live in Canada and regularly have to start my truck when it is -40C. Replace one of your frost plugs in the block with a coolant heater and you will be good to go. Northbay and farther north, the hotel parking lots have AC outlets to plug in your block heaters overnight. In some places, the parking meters have AC outlets for the same reason (I'm from Manitoba originally). Up here, all trucks come with a factory installed block heater with the cord tucked under the hood.If the block (and coolant) is warmed up (and especially if you are running synthetic ) there really is nothing to worry about.
My 2004 F150 has 310000k on it and the engine is like new so I wouldn't sweat it regarding cold weather starts. If you are really concerned, set a small fire under the oil pan to warm it up before starting the engine (don't for a minute think I am kidding), this practice is common in Russia and other cold climates.

 

[hugh]

I do live in Manitoba and we usually get a few weeks of very cold weather, think 35 below or worse each winter. There are 2 types of coolant heaters, one goes into usually a heater hose and circulates warm water through the block, it make the engine easier to start with less wear than a cold start and also you get some heat right away. These were sold around here years ago but seem to be fairly rare nowadays. The other, almost universal type is a heating element that replaces a frost plug on the motor. It does not make enough heat to allow your heater to warm the cab up, but will ensure your vehicle will start. Every parking lot has electrical outlets so people can plug these heaters in during winter. Also, its generally agreed that its not a great practice to let your car idle a long time to warm it up, but rather to drive slowly at first, you don,t waste fuel idling and it warms the engine up faster. Just make sure the antifreeze is 50/50 mix and the thermostat is working properly.

 

[bfdiesel]

It is more about keeping the block warm the coolant just helps distribute the heat. A warm block will heat up the oil when it starts circulating.

 

[Buliwyf]

I prefer block heaters that circulate coolant from a low spot on the block or the lower radiator hose, to a high spot on the cylinder head or block. I hate leaky freeze plug heaters. It's nice to have an easy to swap heater element as well. They don't last forever.

GM 8.1L and many Ford 460's have pipe plugs on the left and right sides of the engine, you can connect a Kim hotstart heater there. I think a GM 4.3L has NPT plugs on the left and right as well.

Cummins B series you can use a T in the lower radiator hose for an inlet and then pump to near the back of the cylinder head.

There are a hundred ways to connect block heaters.

I can keep an eye out for certain engines if you want. Usually I replace heaters on backup firepumps, but I really don't pay attention to exactly where the plumbing is all the time.

The idea is to help startability, and to have have the bearings warmed up so they kind of fit ok. Backup firepumps and generators start up and rev to 1800rpm immediately. Cold loose or tight bearings can be a wear problem.


Oil heaters only work if you have an electric oil pump circulating the oil. Old POS Scania engines often use these. They are rubbish.

 

[beast1210]

I prefer the coolant "tank" heaters that circulate the coolant instead of the localized freeze plug versions. heats the whole block, melts the snow off the hood, usually has the coolant just around 180 just before the thermostat opens

[video]http://youtu.be/o1fv_DqnLg0?t=1m39s[/video]

http://www.jcwhitney.com/tank-type-engine-heaters/p2000837.jcwx?filterid=c1648j1

 

[VanIsle_Greg]

I prefer the coolant "tank" heaters that circulate the coolant instead of the localized freeze plug versions. heats the whole block, melts the snow off the hood, usually has the coolant just around 180 just before the thermostat opens

[video]http://youtu.be/o1fv_DqnLg0?t=1m39s[/video]

http://www.jcwhitney.com/tank-type-engine-heaters/p2000837.jcwx?filterid=c1648j1

Wow, those are pretty kool units. Doesn't get that cold here, well cold enough. -15 to -20 + when it is really nasty cold here. Would be easier on the Jeep for those cold mornings to have one of these installed!

 

[Schattenjager]

This seems like the perfect solution! Anyone using this? Only concern is it introduces a couple additional connections which is an opportunity for leaks. Wondering if it can be placed inline of the PHH workaround hose on the 80 Land Cruiser? Hmmmm....

 

[brussum]

It really seems like you're trying to over-engineer a solution for a very short duration of usage, IMHO. We spend several weeks each winter at -30F or colder and I've never had a problem with my 200 series, Expedition, or F350. I have a block heater, a (glued on) oil pan heater, a trans oil pan heater, and battery heaters. I plug my diesel in when the temps get down around +20F and the gas engines at about zero. It just helps them start easier. External oil pan heaters aren't the most efficient method, but they suffice for all but the most extreme climates. I've driven through the YT in November several times (without all of the heating pads) and the temps aren't that bad. You'll be okay. If you're that worried about it, then it's cheaper and easier to start and run your engine for a short time every few hours.

 

[Schattenjager]

It really seems like you're trying to over-engineer a solution for a very short duration of usage, IMHO. ...

Well, this IS a crowd that is known to have $600+ fridges so we don't have to deal with ice on a four day camping trip as well as being happy to spend $1300 on an SUV drawer system. An engine heater of some sort seems like a prudent addition, Yukon trip withstanding. IF it's only used a few times a year it would surly justify it's cost by easing stress on the motor.

I was in the Yukon last year and four big rigs were DEAD in the parking lot due to a faulty electrical box they plugged into. I'm not sure what your calling ' not that bad' but -30 did a number on several folks. One guy took his battery in his room to warm it and drained his oil (crazy long time) and added fresh that he had soaked in a bathtub of hot water. Motor fired right up. Some folks hang a 100W light bulb or two in their engine compartment right after turning off the car to keep things a little warmer for a little longer. I don't see this working so well, but I guess they can't take chances.

 

[brussum]

Isnt that the truth?...I can't wait to get one of those fridges myself.

You definitely need to make sure you're plugging your car into a good power source overnight. Especially true with diesels as the oils tend to be thicker and it takes more power to start them. The gas vehicles don't tend to be as sensitive to the cold. That said, I had a battery freeze up last winter in my Cruiser when my heating pad failed. Not fun trying to change out a battery at -40F.

If you want to go beyond the heating pads, then check out Zerostart. They make heating elements that replace the oil and trans pan drain plugs. It's just a matter of finding the right one for your particular vehicle. They're still not going to circulate fluids, but the objective is to thin the oil out so it flows better at start up. In a similar manner, the block heater's there to keep the block from freezing, not to make your passenger cabin warm up faster (trust me, it still takes my F350 about 20 min before it spits out warm air). Also, invest in the battery pad as the battery is a weak link in the extreme cold. An extra $1 for a lighted plug is money well spent to make sure your outlet actually has juice.

Safe travels and enjoy the sights! That is one gorgeous place.

 

[charlieaarons]

I'd recommend going to a John Deere dealer and buying (and using) their 0W40 Plus 50 oil.
It has a pour point of -57C = -71F.
Be sure to idle for a couple of minutes at least before driving off.
I doubt very much you'll run into -40 the next few weeks, but I hope you have 75W90 synthetic in your diffs.

Charlie

 

[762X39]

Last year we had to work up in Cobalt (northern ontario but not super far north) and it was -30C. My solution was to keep the engine running most of the time(it was only $20 worth of fuel for the day).
Also, A lighted powercord lets you know if the ac socket you plug into is live. And as Charlie suggested, 75W90 synthetic in the diffs (I also use it in my mogs portals and tranny) help lot. A 0W40 synthetic motor oil isn't that bad an idea either.