Either the ARB compressor is confused, or I am.

[devinsixtyseven]

It's blowing air out the intake filter.

Never mind the part about where it's getting all that air it's throwing out the intake hole (I think from the solenoid, actually)...I'm pretty sure all that air is supposed to be flowing the other direction!

All the wiring is correct as per the ARB wiring diagram (I checked at least thrice). The ground line is attached at the back of the engine compartment, I was testing with the red/yellow line hooked to the 15A hot for the auxiliary outlets in the cab.

It's just a DC motor, if I switch the leads it should run the other direction.

Anyone have suggestions, comments, similar experience, or words of warning and horripilation before I swap the leads?

Is the solenoid still good or is something likely to be awry since the compressor was trying to pull a 90psi vacuum from the output side of the unit?

And I found such a great place to put the intake, too .

Thanks,
Sean

 

[RoundOut]

Anyone have suggestions, comments, similar experience, or words of warning and horripilation before I swap the leads?

Is it under warranty? If not, I'd wait til Tuesday (since Monday is Labor Day) and call ARB. Unless you can take apart the unit safely and trace its wires to the motor and confirm you won't fry something, it just wouldn't be worth it.

On the other hand, smoking this one would be a great excuse to spend some more money on an ExtremeAir from Sierra Expeditions. :shakin:

 

[devinsixtyseven]

The tank is cracked at the threaded hole for the cutoff switch...big crack, too.

And I'm afraid it may be my fault .

Will find out Tuesday ...

Otherwise...this little compressor is a beauty. Wiring it was painless, getting it installed was a piece of cake, running the air lines was easy too. At least all that went right!

 

[Howard70]

Cracked Tank Is Replaceable

I cracked the tank on one of the ARB compressors by over tightening the pressure fitting. However, all wasn't lost. I called ARB told them what I did and they sent me a new tank for an extremely reasonable price - I think it was less than $10 (plus a couple of bucks for ground shipping - they would have done next day if I wanted the extra cost). Installing the new tank was easy and everything worked great after that.

Good Luck,

Howard L. Snell

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Which compressor are you dealing with?

Parts are pretty cheap, it sounds like you cracked your head assembly, if you have the compact compressor for example, the part is under $10 and most large scale ARB'ers will have it in stock

 

[devinsixtyseven]

It's the air tank on the compact version, big crack between the pressure switch and the outlet port on the intake side. At least it looks easy to replace.

Kurt, If I can't locate one here in town I'll give ya a call.

-Sean

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Seems alot more common on the CSKA12 than any other model, use caution when screwing in the pressure switch. I personally use teflon tape rather than the liquid stuff.

Your looking for part# 310102

 

[devinsixtyseven]

Now that's customer service!

I also get the feeling it happens a lot...the guy I talked to at ARB knew exactly what I was talking about, why it happened, the part I needed, and in so many words said everybody gets one free shot.

I paid for a little quicker shipping, should be here Thursday.

His comment was just turn the switch in by hand until it stops leaking. I used teflon tape, but it wouldn't thread in by hand, so I had to use the wrench. Since the switch has threads cut in from the major diameter like a bolt with a shank, and no flange at the base of the threads, there's no clear sign that it's "in", it's just something that apparently must be done like the guy said and if it leaks use more sealant.

Hopefully I'll have better luck with the next one!

...I forgot to ask why it pushes air out the intake during normal operation as the tank fills.

-Sean

 

[RoundOut]

...I forgot to ask why it pushes air out the intake during normal operation as the tank fills.

If it is a reciprocating pump, without the proper seal on the intake, the valve may not have had sufficient resistance to seal in one of the stroke directions. Just guessing, though.

 

[devinsixtyseven]

That sounds right...I wonder if a simple flap valve would improve the efficiency of the pump.

Progress, as of this evening...the tank was easy to swap. It seals, too . With the engine off, the compressor runs for a few seconds and then switches off. When I lock the rear, it comes on again, since I had to run the entire length of blue line to reach the rear axle from the right side of the engine compartment...not really a big deal, but a larger tank would be handy. It does however lock the rear. Finally I have a locker! :wings:

When the engine is running, the compressor doesn't shut off. I can lock the rear, unlock the rear, not lock the rear...no shutoff, long after it would normally run and cut via the pressure switch. It does lock, I checked in a dirt lot and on pavement...it locks and unlocks properly.

So...could engine vibration cause a leak? Maybe an electrical problem in the cutoff switch? What would you guys check first?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

You could check the cutoff switch with a voltmeter... and the leak with a makeshift pressure guage. I have a couple of different pressure guages I have rigged up for testing... the one you would need would accept the blue line and show the pressure in the line. No need to let it release, etc. Have you tried any soapy water yet

 

[devinsixtyseven]

99% certain it's the pressure switch.

A lot of soapy water showed nothing, but sometimes I would see a tiny little bubble pop out from between the metal and plastic on the pressure switch body.

So...I did what any reasonable guy would do with an environmentally sealed compressor with a snorkel...

...dropped it in a bucket of water. Works great .

No bubbles, nothing. Not when the locker was engaged or disengaged, except out the solenoid exhaust (if you're the type who likes to blow bubbles in your milk with a straw, this part was hilarious...half grade schooler, half archer fish).

The last thing I could check was the output line to the rear end, and as I'm having some issues removing the blue line from the press fit on the compressor, I just cut the line a couple inches from the compressor. That was even more fun when I stuck it underwater and routed the air charge through the solenoid . BLOOOOOOOF! :hehe:

Anyway, nothing's wrong with the compressor, solenoid, seals, blah blah blah...but it doesn't shut off all the time, less so when the engine is running, more likely to work when it's off, which leads me to believe the pressure switch is damaged somehow and susceptible to vibration as a result.

Also, I reduced the noise quite a bit by putting a couple pieces of closed cell foam, about 1/2" thick, between the body and the bottom of the adapter plate, and between the top of the plate and the nut with the captured washer on top.

So...Monday I can order a new pressure switch, and a splice for the line where I cut it, if I can't get the bloody thing out of the press fixture.

Progress! And a big mess playing with water! Wheeee!

-Sean

 

[cruiseroutfit]

CO26 is the part# on the pressure switch (going by memory so dbl check) When its NOT cutting off, you should be able to bypass the electrical and make sure its the pressure switch... but I think your on the right path

 

[devinsixtyseven]

Those guys are so cool.

They sent a new pressure switch and a new press fitting, since I was having a helluva time getting the old line out of the original press fitting...it grabs like a bulldog.

The old switch may have had a problem, but the root problem is still there, just more predictable. Now, when the truck is off, the compressor runs normal and shuts off when the pressure builds.

When I start the engine, it runs and runs and runs...until I turn off the engine, and a second later...click! the compressor shuts off via the pressure switch.

Soooooo...armed with a multimeter, I dig in...now I'm thinking it has to be the solenoid, nothing else makes sense, and I bet the solenoid itself is fine.

Any tips on how to test the wiring harness?

Off, the battery is at about 12.8V. Running, 13.2-13.4 at idle (don't remember exactly). The compressor draws about 6A normally, with a 9A spike on startup as it warms up (like successive start/lock/restart/unlock cycles). Not sure how to electrically test the solenoid.

My other thought is time the compressor from start to shutoff with the engine off, then remove the solenoid and reinsert the plug, start the engine, engage the compressor and if it runs more than a second or two longer with the engine running, kill it and bleed off the pressure through the plug ports, throw my hands in the air and exchange the compressor on account of gremlins.

This is probably somehow my fault...not sure, but somehow I'm thinking I've done something dumb and not caught it. The harnesses are correctly linked to the isolating and locker switches, and the correct lines are hooked up on the compressor. I've run it direct (fused) from the battery and from the 12V outlets in the cab with the same results.

Ideas, anyone?

-Sean

 

[RoundOut]

Any tips on how to test the wiring harness?

...

Ideas, anyone?

Use the continuity tester on your multimeter. If your multimeter does not have one (I doubt that this is possible, as even the cheapest Radio Shack multimeters have them), go to RS and buy a 9 volt piezo (sp?) buzzer. Wire one end to a 9 volt battery, and the other to a aligator-clip-equipped lead. The other end of the battery, connect to another aligator-clip-equipped lead. Now you have a continuity tester.

I built one for my model railroad, because I didn't always want to haul the whole M.M. around, when all I needed to test if their was a short between the two tracks was a continuity tester.

Hopefully, the leads on your M.M. (or home-made C.T.) are long enough to get from one end of the harness to the other.