Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Looks like these guys made it to a first run of production. Going to check them out in slc in February. Thoughts?
Exodus Capax Trailer
- Thread starter Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
- Start date
eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
Haven't seen them before. Just pulled up their site.
I have a really hard time taking seriously anyone that refers to their trailers as "rigs." Instantly reminds me of "tactical" bros.
Their gallery page does not actually load any media.
The bottom of their range, which has a tiny floorplan that's barely enough to turn around in, starts at $120,000 USD. Okay then...
I have a really hard time taking seriously anyone that refers to their trailers as "rigs." Instantly reminds me of "tactical" bros.
Their gallery page does not actually load any media.
The bottom of their range, which has a tiny floorplan that's barely enough to turn around in, starts at $120,000 USD. Okay then...
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
I believe its a 16-18 foot box that is 22 feet long and 8.4 foot width. Height in transit is 6'. Great for towing with the new scout terra ev. My current trailer is 8.5 feet at fenders but box is narrower at 80" 6'8". It can be a bear in traffic. Worry that the Capax box at 100" is going to be more of a bear. At 6 feet tall over my trailer which is 9+ feet tall maybe it will be better.
I believe the box is okay with one axel which saves weight.
Aluminum chassis with crazy folding tounge. Looks beefy. Might need it to fit in my garage.
I believe the box is okay with one axel which saves weight.
Aluminum chassis with crazy folding tounge. Looks beefy. Might need it to fit in my garage.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Sheet i often say rigs. My dad was in the Navy. Maybe that's were I got it. I like rigs better the coaches. That is so RV salesman ie.
I haven't had issues with website
At 8.4 wide I thought it look very roomy.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
That is about what I have and I have to watch weight a bit. I am not exactly sure the dry weight. My guess is one could get that down to 6,200
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Will update when I confirm ground clearance in off road height. Might be off road capable enough for me. Does come with articulating hitch
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Still researching details on this "rig" 😉. Out of all the expensive new modern trailers this one so far looks to be the most off-road capable.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Looks interesting 
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Looks like some beefy aluminum
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Only way it will fit in my garage
Raspy
Active member
That swing away tongue looks pretty beefy. If it has a weak point it is in the pullout pins. That is a highly stressed point and will likely get wallowed out over time from the heavy stress and play in the system. Bolts would be better, but slower to remove. It seems like an unfortunate compromise just to shorten the trailer by a couple of feet. These days, the code for a garage is, I think 19' depth. Barely enough, and many builders build to the minimum spec. Some trucks are longer than that.
I made a mistake on the "six bolt" wheels comment. They are actually 8 bolt. Good. I can't see the swingarms, but I noticed how far forward the shocks are mounted. They have very little advantage, or leverage over the suspension movement, at that location. It looks like the frame is a riveted setup, similar to the Pause and Reboot frames.
Those stabilizers are the same units used as the main tongue jack on the Reboot trailers. They are pretty strong and can be deployed electrically from the control panel. Good, but lots of expense and electrical equipment. With off-grid trailers we have an energy budget. How much power is to be budgeted for lowering the stabilizers at each stop? and why is that better than doing it with a hand crank or battery drill? I don't even use the stabilizers usually, and with more and more automation, comes more and more expense and repairs. I just don't feel the need for the trailer to do everything for me, or pay the price for that complication. It's getting to where trailers are simply luxury apartments on wheels, and any time we can detect a slight issue requiring us to get involved, we demand an upgrade. My Reboot is pretty complicated too, and I am always aware of how that could affect the quality of the trip if things don't work right.
Examples of this are that my water heater cracked and Truma won't sell parts to the end users. The Truma furnace is finicky about elevation and delivery air flow, resulting in shutdowns if everything isn't perfect. One of my stabilizers bent slightly and locked up. The only way I could get it out of the way was to unbolt is from the trailer. If I didn't have tools, it would have been more serious. The TV works with the Reboot onboard hotspot and is so complicated I could not figure out how to get the weather from local programming. The Victron solar controller must be programmed to work with the inverter and other controllers in the system. It is a proprietary program and uses a proprietary plug connection. Only dealers have access and then they can only borrow the equipment to do it. I cannot change out a simple solar controller and expect it to work with the system. There is a relay on the back of the electronics skid, where the controllers and inverter are mounted. These relays can go out and the only way to get to them is disassemble the seat and remove the entire skid while dealing with all the wiring that is crammed in around it. Then everything in the trailer is shut down until that little relay gets fixed. It could have just as easily been mounted on top where it could be reached with no problem. The air suspension works very well, but don't ry to fix a leak or replace a control valve, because all that stuff is above the underbelly aluminum bottom that protects it all from splash and weather. That bottom is siliconed and bolted on. And it appears to be one piece under the entire bottom of the trailer. Very difficult access to the equipment.
Simplicity and serviceability are very important. Trailers require maintenance and they have failures. Wanting more and more complicated systems and automation does and will lead to disappointment. We each need to decide what "camping" means. For me it is freedom, travel, exploration, seeing new things and puttering around on the trailer to dial it in. Campfire time with friends, interacting with the wild burros and horses, photography and learning about the geology of the West. But it is not about getting help to watch TV, or to make the solar work, from professionals. It is not getting stranded with poor equipment or driving a thousand miles home with no air suspension. That is why I like simple mechanical systems that are well proven. The Reboot, for instance is the most complicated trailer I've ever had. It is a wonderful thing, but I always have my fingers crossed that I don't have to fix the suspension or the charging system. I'm at a point where I am not enamored with over the top high tech, or luxurious camping equipment. We need a good towing trailer, well insulated, with good suspension. A good water system, heating system, shower and toilet system. A good solar system and lithium battery bank. I want a large compressor fridge and a propane stove. An outside griddle is a big plus. A few chairs, a fire pit and I'm happy. These allow us to go out and stay out, off grid. Bring on the adverse weather as that's fun. We'll camp eight miles from home or on the other side of the Country.
End of rant.
I made a mistake on the "six bolt" wheels comment. They are actually 8 bolt. Good. I can't see the swingarms, but I noticed how far forward the shocks are mounted. They have very little advantage, or leverage over the suspension movement, at that location. It looks like the frame is a riveted setup, similar to the Pause and Reboot frames.
Those stabilizers are the same units used as the main tongue jack on the Reboot trailers. They are pretty strong and can be deployed electrically from the control panel. Good, but lots of expense and electrical equipment. With off-grid trailers we have an energy budget. How much power is to be budgeted for lowering the stabilizers at each stop? and why is that better than doing it with a hand crank or battery drill? I don't even use the stabilizers usually, and with more and more automation, comes more and more expense and repairs. I just don't feel the need for the trailer to do everything for me, or pay the price for that complication. It's getting to where trailers are simply luxury apartments on wheels, and any time we can detect a slight issue requiring us to get involved, we demand an upgrade. My Reboot is pretty complicated too, and I am always aware of how that could affect the quality of the trip if things don't work right.
Examples of this are that my water heater cracked and Truma won't sell parts to the end users. The Truma furnace is finicky about elevation and delivery air flow, resulting in shutdowns if everything isn't perfect. One of my stabilizers bent slightly and locked up. The only way I could get it out of the way was to unbolt is from the trailer. If I didn't have tools, it would have been more serious. The TV works with the Reboot onboard hotspot and is so complicated I could not figure out how to get the weather from local programming. The Victron solar controller must be programmed to work with the inverter and other controllers in the system. It is a proprietary program and uses a proprietary plug connection. Only dealers have access and then they can only borrow the equipment to do it. I cannot change out a simple solar controller and expect it to work with the system. There is a relay on the back of the electronics skid, where the controllers and inverter are mounted. These relays can go out and the only way to get to them is disassemble the seat and remove the entire skid while dealing with all the wiring that is crammed in around it. Then everything in the trailer is shut down until that little relay gets fixed. It could have just as easily been mounted on top where it could be reached with no problem. The air suspension works very well, but don't ry to fix a leak or replace a control valve, because all that stuff is above the underbelly aluminum bottom that protects it all from splash and weather. That bottom is siliconed and bolted on. And it appears to be one piece under the entire bottom of the trailer. Very difficult access to the equipment.
Simplicity and serviceability are very important. Trailers require maintenance and they have failures. Wanting more and more complicated systems and automation does and will lead to disappointment. We each need to decide what "camping" means. For me it is freedom, travel, exploration, seeing new things and puttering around on the trailer to dial it in. Campfire time with friends, interacting with the wild burros and horses, photography and learning about the geology of the West. But it is not about getting help to watch TV, or to make the solar work, from professionals. It is not getting stranded with poor equipment or driving a thousand miles home with no air suspension. That is why I like simple mechanical systems that are well proven. The Reboot, for instance is the most complicated trailer I've ever had. It is a wonderful thing, but I always have my fingers crossed that I don't have to fix the suspension or the charging system. I'm at a point where I am not enamored with over the top high tech, or luxurious camping equipment. We need a good towing trailer, well insulated, with good suspension. A good water system, heating system, shower and toilet system. A good solar system and lithium battery bank. I want a large compressor fridge and a propane stove. An outside griddle is a big plus. A few chairs, a fire pit and I'm happy. These allow us to go out and stay out, off grid. Bring on the adverse weather as that's fun. We'll camp eight miles from home or on the other side of the Country.
End of rant.
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Raspy thank you for posting this as it really helps me.
This trailer appeals to me because it is the most spacious interior layout that will fit in my garage. The bunk beds are the perfect space for my handicapped daughter. I will be matching it with an EV truck and it's low transit hight will create so much less drag then a 9-11 foot stand up.
Funny you mentioned code on garage length as my mini rv garage is 19' 6" so I have to have the folding A frame tongue. Not ideal but the only time I would fold it is when I garage it so bolts are no problem. (Thanks for that tip).
So my custom build will start with 120 k version. My goal is to build it as light as possible and get the tongue weight down to 650 pounds and dry weight down to 6k pounds.
I will delete the spare tire and possibly the rack on the front box (rear one is good enough). I will delete the auto leveling jacks and use the lightweight slide jacks you suggested ( i bought four for my Trail Marker). I will delete AC, massive auto rising television.
I hope they offer a manual way to rise and lower the roof in case of actuator fallilure.
I will delete the black water tank.
I will go 800 watts solar, 400 am hr lithium, 3000 watt inverter, DC-DC Charger etc
This trailer appeals to me because it is the most spacious interior layout that will fit in my garage. The bunk beds are the perfect space for my handicapped daughter. I will be matching it with an EV truck and it's low transit hight will create so much less drag then a 9-11 foot stand up.
Funny you mentioned code on garage length as my mini rv garage is 19' 6" so I have to have the folding A frame tongue. Not ideal but the only time I would fold it is when I garage it so bolts are no problem. (Thanks for that tip).
So my custom build will start with 120 k version. My goal is to build it as light as possible and get the tongue weight down to 650 pounds and dry weight down to 6k pounds.
I will delete the spare tire and possibly the rack on the front box (rear one is good enough). I will delete the auto leveling jacks and use the lightweight slide jacks you suggested ( i bought four for my Trail Marker). I will delete AC, massive auto rising television.
I hope they offer a manual way to rise and lower the roof in case of actuator fallilure.
I will delete the black water tank.
I will go 800 watts solar, 400 am hr lithium, 3000 watt inverter, DC-DC Charger etc
Obsessed2findARuggedHybid
Well-known member
Just got off the phone with one of the founders at Exodus. They are very busy as there is a lot of intrest in this rig. He answered every question and concern i had. Like under floor truma-heater-AC. Beefy stout chassis and Frame folding tongue. Yes there are screens in the windows. 20" of ground clearance in Off-Road mode. There is no other trailer in this space that has as much sq ft of interior space and can fit in a typical household garage. There are other pop ups that fit height wise but they are 18-20 inches narrower. It's wider then an airstream. It's not going to be a rock crawler on narrower roads but will be a base camp that will get to some majestic mountain off grid camp spots that's for sure. Will update when I go see and use one in March.