Extending distance between tow vehicle and trailer

kklasman

Member
I've searched this forum and haven't found my specific question. I want to extend the distance between tow vehicle and trailer to allow for my bike rack in between to clear the toolbox on the front of the trailer during tight turns. The trailer has a 2" receiver, so I could get some extension by using a long max coupler (I already have a standard max coupler) or a long draw bar (each would give me about 12" of extension beyond what I already have), or even some combination of the two. Is one better than the other, or are there too many variables for others to comment?

In other words, is adding length better done with a longer tongue or by pushing the coupler farther from the tow vehicle? How would each solution affect tongue weight.

Ultimately once I find a length that works, I'd like to extend the trailer tongue permanently... although the long max coupler might be a good, lower cost solution than having the tongue extended (I'm not a welder).
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
if you extend receiver you increase leverage on rear axle and chassis and reduce your tongue capacity, you should extend tongue and keep hitch as close to the axle as possible to reduce loading..

If your anywhere near your tongue weight capacity, you should NOT use a receiver extension.
 

Superduty

Adventurer
Dreadlocks is correct.

I know some folks that have in bed campers extend their hitch (aka draw bar), so they can still tow since the in bed camper extends beyond the tailgate. They typically upgrade the hitch to class 5 and it uses a 2.5" receiver.... This all assumes the tongue weight doesn't exceed the vehicle rating.

Extending the draw bar puts a lot of leverage on the hitch/truck.

Extending the front of your trailer may cause some issues with the trailer as well based on trailer axle placement. I still think this is the better way to go.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Longer tongue.

But may need to move wheels forward or otherwise redistribute weight to keep weight balanced
 

kklasman

Member
TV is a stock 2016 Tacoma DoubleCab TRD Off-Road with tow package (6000 lbs towing capacity). Trailer is a somewhat off road capable teardrop weighing about 1600 lbs. Trailer/TW is well within limits of Tacoma even with the hitch extension reducing capacity by 50%.

I could get 15" more clearance by switching to a lower toolbox on the tongue that would allow the bikes to pass over it on a tight turn. That would still have limits in tight sloping turns (cross-axle between TV and trailer?) when the bike rack tilts down on the inside of the turn.

The trailer is already built (not by me) and I won't be moving the axle to accomodate changes in tongue length. I realize I need to weigh it and figure out how to distribute weight as best I can given the limits of this setup.

Here's a picture of the rig fully loaded...actually overloaded a bit with extra stuff in the TV I won't ordinarily be carrying. Seems to squat a little, but it towed really well on a 1300 mile trip this weekend.

509360
 

kklasman

Member
Been there, done that, don't like it (I had a very similar setup to your picture when I had a truck camper). Expensive bikes make terrible bumpers, so I don't want them on front of TV or back of trailer, especially where I can't see them. Backing up is hard/risky enough without having bikes to worry about. I'm old, short and I don't have the lightest of bikes so putting them on a roof rack is problematic too.

But thanks for the suggestions.
 

bshinn

Active member
I'm currently using this: https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Hidden-Hitch/80232.html with no ill effects.

It allowed me to clear the spare on the Jeep with no issues. Tongue wt on the trailer is reasonable (about 90-100lbs depending on loadout) so that helps. I know the Jeep is squatting, but that's its normal stance, rear springs are sagging a bit (cheap Chinese springs and 200lbs hanging on the tire carrier). It sags little to none with that trailer hooked up.

Full disclosure, the ball is in about the same location as it would be on a stock JK (maybe 6" further back). The frame was chopped about 6" and a cross member with a 2" receiver built in welded in place.


509370
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
how much does that bike rig weigh? is it also attached to the receiver? that thing looks like it could be putting several hundred pounds of force on the receiver with the leverage it has.. you may already be closer to your tongue capacity than you think.. sagging ass with a trailer that has a mere 200# of tongue on a truck is not a good sign, Ive towed that with a hatchback car and it didnt sag much.

also keep in mind your departure angles are crap with extensions... if you go much further back you may have trouble dragging that hitch on inclines..
 

bshinn

Active member
You might want to check your State laws before reengineering a trailer hitch.

Probably illegal as hell, but is it unsafe?

I'm not worried, the cross member was manufactured by a reputable company who clearly stated that it was not certified for towing. Material specs were equal to or better than what came on the Jeep from the factory and was burned in by a certified welder who practices his trade at a local nuclear power plant. It was designed and engineered to handle recovery loads which are a helluva lot higher than towing loads.

No sleep lost here.
 

bshinn

Active member
how much does that bike rig weigh? is it also attached to the receiver? that thing looks like it could be putting several hundred pounds of force on the receiver with the leverage it has.. you may already be closer to your tongue capacity than you think.. sagging ass with a trailer that has a mere 200# of tongue on a truck is not a good sign, Ive towed that with a hatchback car and it didnt sag much.

also keep in mind your departure angles are crap with extensions... if you go much further back you may have trouble dragging that hitch on inclines..
Nice catch, didn't notice the bikes were hanging from the ball mount, thought they were bolted to the trailer drawbar. I wouldn't think of extending the hitch mount. Rack + 2 bikes is probably 100-110lbs unless the bikes are pretty high end carbon or aluminum.

Peace.
 

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