F150 low compression on cyl 6 can I keep driving??

[Jb1rd]

Can I continue to drive it this way without causing damage to the other cyl? The mech is saying it is easier to buy a JY eng and swap it out than to have the cyl rebuilt, is this true? He is quoting $3200 to start and money being added on from there with fluids and such. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

 

[89s rule]

Is it a valve/head issue or a ring/piston issue? What 6 cyl engine is it? Guessing 4.2 from your other post?

Quick search on car-part showed several low milage engine for around $1K, $3200 sounds really high to me, but I don't deal with full time shops much either. I have a few friends who would do an engine swap for $500-$750 + materials. I would recommend baselining everything while its apart. Belts, hoses, lines, wires, plugs, etc. With all that included maybe $3200 might not be too far off. Also if you call LKQ they usually have a warranty and can transfer parts within their system for free.

 

[BajaSportsmobile]

Do a leak down test and figure out what the problem is - a valve job or head gasket is a lot cheaper than a new squirrel cage.

 

[Jb1rd]

Do a leak down test and figure out what the problem is - a valve job or head gasket is a lot cheaper than a new squirrel cage.

IS the leak down test different than the compression test he did? (new to this world) I would love to keep the truck but my jaw hit the floor when he said $3200 for a junk yard eng/swap/labor and probably another $5-800 when all said and done for fluids sensors ect... Is this just a case of mech CYA or is it typical and are these Triton motors really that unreliable? Scarring me right back into a diesel. And I ask this because ultimately I am/was looking for a e2-350 to turn into an adventure wagon. Not a happy camper this morning

 

[Jb1rd]

So the consensus seems to be that it is relatively ok to drive with the main issue being a catalytic convertor being ruined due to unburned fuel, a bit less power and a bit worse fuel consumption. At this point just going to drive it back to Colorado (and hope for the best )and get a Jasper Reman installed when I get home or shoot it and walk away :sombrero: Still on the hunt for the right van/camper, it will show up I know it, just have to quit pushing and let it happen

 

[BajaSportsmobile]

IS the leak down test different than the compression test he did?(

Compression test tells you have lower compression in one cylinder. A leak down test will tell you where that leak is coming from and how bad it is. Simple example: If the leak down tester is introducing 100 psi into the cylinder and it is holding 80 psi, you have 20% leak down in that cylinder. If the other "good" cylinders have 5-8% leak down you can see in relative terms how bad the "bad" cylinder is. You can then hear or feel where the leak is coming from. If air is escaping through the exhaust, you have a bad exhaust valve, if through the carb or intake it is an intake valve. If air is escaping out the oil fill cap, dip stick or pvc valve port, you have bad rings...

So if you figure out it is an exhaust valve, pulling the heads and doing a valve job is all that is necessary - and a lot cheaper.

 

[Jb1rd]

Compression test tells you have lower compression in one cylinder. A leak down test will tell you where that leak is coming from and how bad it is. Simple example: If the leak down tester is introducing 100 psi into the cylinder and it is holding 80 psi, you have 20% leak down in that cylinder. If the other "good" cylinders have 5-8% leak down you can see in relative terms how bad the "bad" cylinder is. You can then hear or feel where the leak is coming from. If air is escaping through the exhaust, you have a bad exhaust valve, if through the carb or intake it is an intake valve. If air is escaping out the oil fill cap, dip stick or pvc valve port, you have bad rings...

So if you figure out it is an exhaust valve, pulling the heads and doing a valve job is all that is necessary - and a lot cheaper.

Thanks Baja, I guess I might need to take it to another mechanic mine is only suggesting the engine swap, he says that rebuilding it is mickey mouse and wont put his name on it, blah blah blah, unfortunately I am not educated enough to argue with him on this point, other than him telling me there is only 40 pounds in cylinder #6 I have no idea what the larger implications are. Getting my education the only way I know how, "school of hard knocks" !!! If I were home in Colorado I could take it to a relative and have them help me but out here in Florida I am on my one and trying to trust a mechanic, never a good position to be in.

 

[boardrider247]

Thanks Baja, I guess I might need to take it to another mechanic mine is only suggesting the engine swap, he says that rebuilding it is mickey mouse and wont put his name on it, blah blah blah, unfortunately I am not educated enough to argue with him on this point, other than him telling me there is only 40 pounds in cylinder #6 I have no idea what the larger implications are. Getting my education the only way I know how, "school of hard knocks" !!! If I were home in Colorado I could take it to a relative and have them help me but out here in Florida I am on my one and trying to trust a mechanic, never a good position to be in.

Yes find a different mechanic. As baja said it could be a simple bad valve. There is NO reason to replace a entire engine (with a junkyard unit no less) when a set of rebuilt heads is all it needs.