Fastener ?

[lilgription]

At the point in my build where I need to decide on sheet metal or aluminum sides and lid. Of course the entire trailer is framed with steel tubing. 4x6 gear hauler. I can handle the steel sheet metal aspect if I go that route. If I go aluminum I’ll have to attach it with fasteners of some sort. What do most of you DIY’ers use, simple bolt and nut, self tapping screws, rivets ? I can go the aluminum route and save approximately 150lbs and it’ll only cost me about $70 more over the steel. Any input is appreciated

 

[DaveInDenver]

Glue or rivets?

 

[krick3tt]

Dissimilar metals?
Relative surface areas of contacting dissimilar metals is also relevant in determining which metal exhibits accelerated corrosion. It is undesirable to have a large cathode surface in contact with a relatively small anode surface.

 

[jwiereng]

Might consider VHB tape

 

[opp]

aluminum route .many repair shop are finding that welded aluminum frames are cracking at the welds . When you weld Alum. it will get hard = brittle from the heat. As mounting the siding VHB tape I the cleanest next would be pop rivets

 

[krick3tt]

If you over drill the hole on the skin, but drill it small enough that the rivets still hold would that allow expansion to occur and not have the skin buckle?

 

[Alloy]

aluminum route .many repair shop are finding that welded aluminum frames are cracking at the welds . When you weld Alum. it will get hard = brittle from the heat. As mounting the siding VHB tape I the cleanest next would be pop rivets

Nah....that's not the case.... aluminum looses strength when it is heated. It has to be age hardend to bring the strength back.

Aluminum cracks because people don't know how to work with it.

 

[Alloy]

At the point in my build where I need to decide on sheet metal or aluminum sides and lid. Of course the entire trailer is framed with steel tubing. 4x6 gear hauler. I can handle the steel sheet metal aspect if I go that route. If I go aluminum I’ll have to attach it with fasteners of some sort. What do most of you DIY’ers use, simple bolt and nut, self tapping screws, rivets ? I can go the aluminum route and save approximately 150lbs and it’ll only cost me about $70 more over the steel. Any input is appreciated

Adhesive or VHB tape to isolate the alum from steel and a few mechanical fasteners with silicone sealing washers.

Don't know the distanced but an extrusion bolted at the top and bottom of the sheet with butly tape under it might work.

 

[lilgription]

Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned before now the sides are only about 24” tall. This isn’t a sleeper. But I would definitely isolate in between the uprights and aluminum skin with tape or some sort of silicone/adhesive plus fasteners. Even thought about a thin line of automotive seam sealer but that’s probably too permanent as that stuff can be a pain to remove.

 

[The Artisan]

Might consider VHB tape

Yes this
Kevin

 

[FosterWV]

Stainless steel bolts, cone shaped w fancy washer (Fastenal) and rubber roof sealant from Lowe’s in between frame and alum sheeting

Pic of bolts

 

[Alloy]

Rivets - Truck Body - Trailer & Truck Body - Industries

Austin Hardware & Supply provides solutions to manufacturers in transportation and industrial markets. View our online catalog, order parts & find locations.

www.austinhardware.com

 

[Alloy]

Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned before now the sides are only about 24” tall. This isn’t a sleeper. But I would definitely isolate in between the uprights and aluminum skin with tape or some sort of silicone/adhesive plus fasteners. Even thought about a thin line of automotive seam sealer but that’s probably too permanent as that stuff can be a pain to remove.

Don't use silicone....it doesn't bond to aluminum and some types of silicone contain acetate that will corrode aluminum.

The only thing I use silicone on is glass.

 

[ExpdnUp]

I'd go with 3M 5200. Clean, degrease and scuff the AL and steel where they will be bonded, but don't plan on ever removing a panel again without trashing it in the process. The bond strength on this stuff is no joke. This should also help prevent corrosion concerns from the dissimilar metals.

 

[DzlToy]

West's 610 Epoxy or appropriate VHB tape.

5200 does not love aluminum but it will work in your application.

Call Tech Support or an application engineer at your preferred vendor, tell them what you are doing and get the right product for the job.

If you want the cheap/DIY route, you could use something like Polyurethane concrete crack filler. It sticks to anything, handles UV well and never completely hardens, so there is some flexibility remaining in the joints and seams. Depending on your design, this may help or hurt.