FG Lug nut/bolt questions

[glennm01]

I have a stuck lug nut on my front left wheel, where both the nut and stud are turning together. I'm assuming my best option at this point is to drill out the stud with progressively larger drill bits until I can snap off the nut. Or is there a better option? Other questions:

1. I think I've found the right part numbers for the lug nuts (MT420341 for the right, MT420342 for the left), but does anyone know the part numbers for the studs on a 2004 FG649? I need both left and right, as there's a bad stud on the right side too that I was at least able to get the nut off of.

2. I've replaced wheel studs on smaller vehicles before, and wondering if this job on a Fuso is significantly harder/worse to do? Looking at the shop guide, it seems fairly straightforward, but that's assuming (desperately hoping) that the hole in the wheel hub isn't stripped out.

Thanks in advance for any and all insights.

 

[hoodlum]

One way In the past we’ve used an angle grinder. Cut slots into both the old nut and stud as deep as possible without damaging drum or hub. Can usually bend bac n forth till out part breaks away. Then with a punch carefully tap the stud till it falls out the backside. This way u don’t damage the splines. Now replace with new stud.
Not sure what ur FG brake drum / wheel looks like tho…
4” angle grinder may not fit.
Drilling wouldn’t be my 1st route.
Good luck…

 

[glennm01]

Thanks for the suggestion. Here's a shot of what I'm dealing with. Plenty of access to get at it with an angle grinder/cutting wheel. I'd have to stop about 1/16" or so shy of the wheel to avoid damaging it, but hopefully that's good enough to bend each section back and forth to break it away.

 

[Aussie Iron]

Yep, cut it with an angle grinder down through the centre of the stud and nut just down close to the rim and split the nut of. On earlier models the stud is held in with a nut on the back inside the drum. I would believe a 649 would be the same. So to replace it, it comes out after removing nut rather than punching in.

Dan.

 

[SkiFreak]

When I have done similar tasks I have used a bit of sheetmetal as a sacrificial bit of protection, so you do not accidentally touch the grinder onto the wheel.
Use some tin snips to shape the sheetmetal and tape it onto the wheel. Just has to be secure enough not to fall off.
The grinder will do most of the work, then use a cold chisel to snap the nut. Use one of the 1mm thick cut off wheels.

 

[glennm01]

Thanks for the additional thoughts. I managed to get my hands on new studs and nuts today -- locally. Always a good day when you can say that about Fuso parts. Hell, it's a good enough day when you can find them on the same continent. At any rate, Dan is correct -- there's a nut on the back side of the drum that holds the stud in. Commencing the willful destruction tomorrow...

 

[glennm01]

The shop guide isn't all that clear (to me at least) on how much actually needs to be removed if one just wants to remove the hub/brake drum assembly for the purposes of replacing a lug stud. I've removed what the shop guide calls the "housing assembly," which is the thing that houses the dial to lock/unlock the front hubs, and I'm now staring at this:



That thing with all the holes in it is referred to as the "lock washer," which is #28 in the diagram below. I don't *think* I need to go any deeper than this just to pull the hub and brake drum off, but can anyone who's done this before confirm this?

 

[Aussie Iron]

Yes, undo the two little screws - remove lock washer. Behind that is a nut that needs to be removed. There is a thread somewhere that explains how to make a spanner to get it undone. Back your brakes off it will make it easier to remove the brake drum and hub , wheel bearing an all. Now you can get to the nut that is in the drum area that holds the stud in.
http://i.imgur.com/1OfbvWch.jpg
A picture of a home made tool for the not.

Dan.

 

[canter tourer]

As Dan said, plus here's some pics of when I last had the drums off and the tool I made from some 2 1/2? Inch pipe and scrap i had laying around, hope it helps. Remember the drum is a heavy bugger, be ready to catch it when it comes free!

Dave

 

[glennm01]

Thanks Dan and Dave for the helpful info and photos. I was sort of hoping I wouldn't have to deal with that lock nut, but no such luck.

 

[glennm01]

Success. Getting the old lug nut off turned out to be a piece of cake with the cutting wheel, and SkiFreak's idea of taping pieces of sacrificial sheet metal to the wheel definitely saved me from doing some inadvertent damage. Good stuff. I was able to whip up my own locknut removal tool as well. Ugly, but effective:



One last question -- there's a really thin gasket (#5 in the diagram above) underneath the locking hub cover, and the shop guide says to not reuse these. Does anyone know what material this gasket is made of? It's some sort of plastic film -- definitely not paper, cork, or rubber. Anyway, I can't find exact replacements for these gaskets, so I'd like to make some new ones from scratch if possible. Thoughts?

 

[SkiFreak]

SkiFreak's idea of taping pieces of sacrificial sheet metal to the wheel definitely saved me from doing some inadvertent damage.

You're welcome.

Workshop manuals will always identify numerous items as being "one use", but when it comes to things like gaskets, I have often reused these if they were in good condition.
Your call...

I should add...
These days you can sometimes replace physical gaskets with RTV silicone.
Back in the day when I did lots of gearbox and engine rebuilds, there were a lot of gaskets needed. Look at most new equipment now... they don't use gaskets at all, just sealant.

 

[Aussie Iron]

Re-use is not a problem if it is still intact. A slight smear of RTV if you like to make sure it seals and will make it easier to reuse again if need be.

Dan.