Frame design w/ removable hitch.

[Sb_Moto]

I have been doing research for a couple weeks, and trying to get my offroad camper off on the right foot. So far I have it estimated around 1700-1900 lbs loaded. I plan on using trailer brakes (its cheap so why not). I see where most people mount the tongue below the primary frame, but I want to keep frame height a little higher than my truck hitch for better towing. I can mount below the trailer tongue below the trailer frame, but I will need to use a drop hitch which I prefer not to do.

I am planning on 2x2 .120 tubing for the frame and tongue bracing, and 2.5x2.5 .230 receiver (Male) tubing for the main tongue beam. Then feed it into a Female 3" tubing at the point of bracing to allow me to swap the hitch between a Lock N Roll, and standard 2" ball.

I am concerned about strength based on the research that I have done. I don't want to overbuild it so that its 100lbs too heavy, but I don't want it to snap off while going down a dirt road.

Here is a crewd diagram of what I plan to build. The bold part would be the 3" female portion which will have the male end of the trailer backbone 12" into it, and 12" open on the other end for the hitch to slide in and lock down.



Any suggestions that you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

[1store]

To me it's a little light. This place you want strong. On the trailers we build for over 30 years with no miss hasp. We use 3x3 1/8 wall (THIS WRONG IT 3/16) tied iN to the first cross tie then.2.5 x 2.5'' 1/4'' wall by 4 feet long for a removable tongue. if you are using a premade made 2.5x2.5 .230 receiver it should cost the same
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=317399&d=1448778442&thumb=1

 

[Sb_Moto]

So if I am understanding you correctly I need to run 3x3 1/8 wall through the first cross member and "T" into the second. Then use 2.5x 2.5 1/4" wall. (Wouldn't that leave 1/4" of free play between tubes), and then I could insert and lock it down with 2 receiver style pins or grade 8 bolts? I would assume I will need to run the 3" just a little past bracing, and then the 2.5" can run the rest of the distance?

Thanks in advance!!

 

[1store]

We leave 2 feet OF THE 2.5 X2.5 in the 3x3 . You will find you have To lock the wheels to pull out 2.5 X2.5. We use 2 receiver style pins the bolts will work.

 

[Sb_Moto]

We leave 2 feet OF THE 2.5 X2.5 in the 3x3 . You will find you have To lock the wheels to pull out 2.5 X2.5. We use 2 receiver style pins the bolts will work.

Perfect! I really appreciate your help!! I was reading until my eyes hurt, but had trouble finding much info on it.

 

[1store]

After you get your eyes sight . There many ways to build I hope more will post.

 

[Sb_Moto]

After you get your eyes sight . There many ways to build I hope more will post.

I ordered 3*3 1/8" thick for the tounge, but are you sure you didn't mean 3*3 3/16. If I put a 2.5*2.5 in a 1/8 thick main tube it will leave 1/4" gap between the 2. If I used 3/16 then it would leave a 1/8" right? I am worried that 1/4 would be too much slop.

Thanks in advance!

 

[1store]

You are right .I was reading the wrong paper work. .A small amount of movement in the tube is no big deal soon it get's dirt, rust . where you will have lock your tires piece of wood to get it to slide.

 

[1store]

I looked again. are you having the slide part powder coated that take up more room. .
I'll get a picture on the gap 3 3/16 one of the worker did this.

that the pin

 

[Sb_Moto]

I was planning on painting it. So that was 3x3 3/16 in those pics?

 

[1store]

Yes it 3x3 3/16 THE PIN IS 5/8

 

[1store]

On the trailers we build the sliding part is 5 foot .If you go with a short piece of 2.5x2.5 it will not hurt to put in two pins that a heavy trailer you are building

 

[Sb_Moto]

I plan on putting in 2 pins to secure the 2.5" tubing. I was going to go 4' for the removable portion. Thanks for your advice!

I plan on starting a build thread once I have something to actual show for my build. I hope I can give back to this community!

 

[1store]

Over the years we have found with a sliding receiver. Move the axle more to the 55 /45 .Think about what you are going to add to the front tool box tire .You can find a sweet spot my move the receiver.

 

[Sb_Moto]

I ran some calculations based on the moment of weight of each piece of the trailer and derived that the COG is around 88" on a 156" trailer. Based on the weight of the trailer my axle should be at 108" of 156".

When I do my build thread I will try and make a write up on how to calculate cog and axle placement. It takes time, but it is doable.