Fuel lines rusted on my '91 Monte

75S30

New member
I'm curious if anyone has dealt with this before and can maybe point me in the right direction. My problem is my truck started leaking fuel one day and when I crawled under it to find the leak I could see that the fuel lines are in very bad shape. The bigger problem though is the fitting on the hose coming off the pump is completely seized. I've tried penetrating spray and let it soak but it will not come off and I'm very nervous of applying too much pressure for fear of braking the metal tube coming out of the tank... Is there another way to tackle this problem? I priced out some new pumps but they don't appear to include the metal tubes on top of the tank that have the seized fittings on mine. Basically I'm looking for some suggestions on how to get this fixed...

Thanks for any help you guys can give.
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
I'm curious if anyone has dealt with this before and can maybe point me in the right direction. My problem is my truck started leaking fuel one day and when I crawled under it to find the leak I could see that the fuel lines are in very bad shape. The bigger problem though is the fitting on the hose coming off the pump is completely seized. I've tried penetrating spray and let it soak but it will not come off and I'm very nervous of applying too much pressure for fear of braking the metal tube coming out of the tank... Is there another way to tackle this problem? I priced out some new pumps but they don't appear to include the metal tubes on top of the tank that have the seized fittings on mine. Basically I'm looking for some suggestions on how to get this fixed...

Thanks for any help you guys can give.

Not sure about removing that line but you can also try car-part.com for a used replacement pump. Try to get one from a low mileage pump from outside of obvious rust rich areas like the snow belt or coastal towns. Think AZ, NV, etc.
 

MontyMcV

Observer
Search 4x4Wire.com on this, going back a couple of years now. Many discussions. Basically, you can buy a coil of hose and replumb everything for pretty cheap. On the pump unit, you can remove it and fit with new hard lines. Or, like Off-Roader said, find a used one. One thing though, if your lines are that bad, be ready for a fun time getting the tiny screws out that hold the unit in the tank. When I had those lines on the pump go out on my 92 a while back, I had one screw that broke and I had to drill and retap. Also had one that wasn't coming out on its own. I ended up drilling another hole in the cargo floor to better access it, as I couldn't get the right bite with the access plate off. One suggestion is to try a small vice grip to break the screw loose first. They will get much better grip than a screw driver. Also, once they are out, replace them with small hex heads, and don't forget the anti-sieze.
 

75S30

New member
Thanks for the responses! So, if I'm understanding correctly the metal lines coming off of the pump cover can be replaced? If that's the case then I won't worry so much about them as I really need to replace those as well since everything is so rusted. When I look up replacement pumps it shows the pump but unfortunately I haven't found a clear picture of how the pump connects to the pump cover and I had assumed that those lines were part of the cover and could not be replaced. This actually makes me feel much better.
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
Did you look it up using the mitsu ASA app (windows only) or via a store online catalog? The Mitsu ASA app is available at mitsubishilinks.com.
 

MontyMcV

Observer
It was a little hilly billy on my repair, but I'd do it again without worrying. Lasted fine for over a year before I sold the truck. You can "muscle" the hard lines out from the pump unit and where they go through the lid of it. Then I cleaned up the holes with a drill bit to match the lines I had to replace. The took gentle persuation to push through. I finished with JB all around the openings, followed with West epoxy of the whole top, simply to coat it all. Final step was to shoot with some rattle can paint. Rough up everything so there is good "tooth" for the epoxies.

Total cost was ~$10 and some time. The unit from the stealer was something crazy like $350. Don't recall about aftermarket options.
 

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