Fuso won't start or run.

[ajamesr]

Basic info: 1993 FG437, 4D33 engine.

About a year ago my Fuso started blowing out white smoke but otherwise ran perfect. After lots of diagnostic work, the only thing that made sense was a bad injector pump. So I took the pump out, and sent it to a shop in Portland Oregon that specializes is rebuilding diesel injector pumps, and $1500 later they sent it back, supposedly as good as new.

I then installed the rebuilt pump and it wouldn't start. I have tried everything I can think of with no luck.

Also I have called every diesel shop in the area, including the Fuso dealership, and none of them are willing to work on it because this engine was never released in the US, it's a JDM. So I have no choice but to do it myself.

Here is what I know:

1: If I take the injectors out of the engine and turn it over, they all spray nice jets of fuel, so I know it's getting fuel into the engine.

2: If I use starter fluid it will start up quickly and run as long as I keep adding starting fluid, but as soon as I stop, it'll die. Pressing the gas peddle does nothing while it's running on starter fluid.

3: Before removing the injector pump it ran great, so compression, electrical equipment, valves, etc. should all be fine.

Any suggestions? I have moved across the country and need to get my camper back to Alabam with me, but I can't do that until it's running.

 

[Aussie Iron]

Maybe / could be, something as simple as timing of the injector pump. The pump sounds like it is working if the injectors are spraying fuel so I would be checking that timing is right.

Dan.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4iev7656pu3nevg/Fuel Timing 1.pdf?dl=0

 

[kerry]

I would guess a timing problem also. How did you confirm correct timing upon reinstalling?

 

[ajamesr]

I would guess a timing problem also. How did you confirm correct timing upon reinstalling?

By watching a bunch of videos in languages I couldn't understand and then making a random guess. I have been searching for so so long to find any manual that shows how to set the timing without taking the timing cover off, but I've had no luck. All I can find is how to fine tune the timing once the pump is installed.

 

[Aussie Iron]

If you didn't changed the gear positions when you took the pump of, then they won't be any different now and it should still run. Even if is as before and blowing white smoke.
Okay lets go.
I take it you know where your timing marks are on the engine. Remove tappet cover and number one injector. Turn engine over till timing marks lines up keeping a eye on rockers for number 1 and 4 cylinders. Number 4 should be rocking/on overlap (inlet closing and exhaust opening ). If not 4 and it is on 1 then you need to turn the engine over one turn because it is 180° out. Using a piece of wire down the injector hole you will be able to verify if the piston is on top dead centre. Slightly rocking the crank back and forth you will find the exact top of stroke. The top dead centre mark should now be lined up to the pointer. There should be another mark just before the top dead centre mark, it is you timing mark (9°) for injector timing. If rockers are in this position and crank is on mark and piston is at top dead centre. Then that should be right.
Rotate the crank backwards past the injector timing mark and then bring it forward to the injector timing mark. This is to take out the slack in the timing gears. Now set the injector pump timing as in the pages I gave the link for earlier.

Here is the engine manual.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Its' not rocket science - any diesel engine shop should be able to do the job.

Dan.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Telling people where the rig is physically might help to identify some options.

 

[ajamesr]

If you didn't changed the gear positions when you took the pump of, then they won't be any different now and it should still run. Even if is as before and blowing white smoke.
Okay lets go.
I take it you know where your timing marks are on the engine. Remove tappet cover and number one injector. Turn engine over till timing marks lines up keeping a eye on rockers for number 1 and 4 cylinders. Number 4 should be rocking/on overlap (inlet closing and exhaust opening ). If not 4 and it is on 1 then you need to turn the engine over one turn because it is 180° out. Using a piece of wire down the injector hole you will be able to verify if the piston is on top dead centre. Slightly rocking the crank back and forth you will find the exact top of stroke. The top dead centre mark should now be lined up to the pointer. There should be another mark just before the top dead centre mark, it is you timing mark (9°) for injector timing. If rockers are in this position and crank is on mark and piston is at top dead centre. Then that should be right.

Dan.

DAN! You are amazing! If you weren't on the other side of the world I would hug you! I've been looking for that manual for over a year! You have no idea how helpful that is to me.

I don't have it running yet, but for the first time ever, I feel like I have all the info I need, and am not just shooting in the dark.

Unfortunately because of the stupid way they designed my motorhome, I can't remove the rocker cover, but I think I should be able to reach the #1 rocker arms through the oil cap hole, well enough to finish the job.

Thanks again, I'll update this thread when I get it running or when I need some extra pointers.

 

[ajamesr]

Telling people where the rig is physically might help to identify some options.

Sorry, I'm in the USA, specifically eastern Oregon.

 

[NatersXJ6]

I’m guessing that Eastern Oregon has enough farming to get a couple of good diesel tractor mechanics involved. Find a ranch big enough to have employees, not just owners, and look for the service trucks. Or, go ask at Napa or a tractor dealership and ask at the parts counter. A bucket of fried chicken goes a long way toward breaking the ice and saying “Thank You” for the advice. You can also hit up a small town coffee shop at 5:00 AM. Again, you are looking for service trucks. Think attached crane on an F450 or similar. Most of those guys are intuitive, used to working on stuff with little or no instruction, and willing to do side jobs for cash.

You may have already tried this, but it never hurts to suggest…

 

[ajamesr]

I’m guessing that Eastern Oregon has enough farming to get a couple of good diesel tractor mechanics involved. Find a ranch big enough to have employees, not just owners, and look for the service trucks. Or, go ask at Napa or a tractor dealership and ask at the parts counter. A bucket of fried chicken goes a long way toward breaking the ice and saying “Thank You” for the advice. You can also hit up a small town coffee shop at 5:00 AM. Again, you are looking for service trucks. Think attached crane on an F450 or similar. Most of those guys are intuitive, used to working on stuff with little or no instruction, and willing to do side jobs for cash.

You may have already tried this, but it never hurts to suggest…

Great suggestions, thank you. My instinct is always to go to the phone book or Google and search for professional shops that talk about working on foreign engines. I think I can figure it out with the info Aussie Iron gave me, but if not, I will be looking for locals to give me a hand. I've been a shade-tree mechanic since before I could even drive a car, but it's almost exclusively been on gas engines, so I'm definitely leaning as I go.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Good luck! As I note, you said you called the Fuso dealership and they won’t work on it. The question to ask was… which technician do you have that does side jobs? You don’t want the dealership, you want the guy. Maybe follow them to Taco Bell at lunchtime and ask them away from the boss. Everyone likes a challenge and cash!

 

[kerry]

If there’s no panel in the cab floor to access the engine (which is what crewcab FG’s have, ). I’d consider cutting a hole and making a removable panel.

 

[ajamesr]

If there’s no panel in the cab floor to access the engine (which is what crewcab FG’s have, ). I’d consider cutting a hole and making a removable panel.

There is a panel between the seats but the hole isn't very big, so some parts are impossible to get to, like the valve cover can't come off unless I cut into the sheet metal. The panel seems like it was mostly made to check the fluids and not really to work on it.

 

[ajamesr]

Update: SHE'S ALIVE! Thanks to Dan (Aussie Iron) for that manual, and instructions, I was able to get everything lined up just right, put it back together and it fired right up! I'm so happy, I had almost given up entirely on this camper and just about sold it for scrap.

 

[Aussie Iron]

Glad to help and great that it is going. Now is the smoke gone or are we still at stage one.

Dan.