FWC Project M

[pith helmet]

Anyone here have experience with the topper style FWC Project M? Wondering if a base Raven or the M is for me. I like the idea of the flexibility and added room from the M but know I would have to come up with an easily removable insulation/flooring scheme which wouldn't be too difficult. I am not even sure if they make the M to fit the short box Sierra AT4, so I emailed the company to see. Will have to see what they say before I know if this is even a decision to make. Thanks!

 

[jadmt]

Anyone here have experience with the topper style FWC Project M? Wondering if a base Raven or the M is for me. I like the idea of the flexibility and added room from the M but know I would have to come up with an easily removable insulation/flooring scheme which wouldn't be too difficult. I am not even sure if they make the M to fit the short box Sierra AT4, so I emailed the company to see. Will have to see what they say before I know if this is even a decision to make. Thanks!

be ready for a 2 year wait...I looked into a project M and by the time you get it how you want it they are like $14-15K and a long wait....crazy. Someone about 1000 miles from me had one for sale at basically msrp and I wanted it and emailed him and he told me he was receiving offers locally over his asking price. He said he was not expecting that.

 

[pith helmet]

be ready for a 2 year wait...I looked into a project M and by the time you get it how you want it they are like $14-15K and a long wait....crazy. Someone about 1000 miles from me had one for sale at basically msrp and I wanted it and emailed him and he told me he was receiving offers locally over his asking price. He said he was not expecting that.

You know, I just have not considered the wait aspect. I guess the pandemic is so far in my rear view that I forget the attendant supply chain issues continue. I also haven’t shopped for much in the last couple years.
I'm dumb like that.
I was looking at pretty much the base model which still comes in at 11k and change.

 

[PirateMcGee]

Get an ovrlnd camper. Quality is higher and it fits the truck better and it's cheaper and there's less lead time.

 

[pith helmet]

Get an ovrlnd camper. Quality is higher and it fits the truck better and it's cheaper and there's less lead time.

thanks. just checking out the site. this is more what i had in mind and cheaper. if i go with a camper i really need to keep the weight down since the truck will only have 1,600 lb cargo capacity.

 

[PirateMcGee]

My ovrlnd camper weighs under 350lbs on a 78" truck bed.

 

[dstefan]

+1 one the Ovrlnd. I looked into the full FWCs and the M’s extensively before I bought mine. The Ovrlnd gives you way more options and fewer limitations unless you just really want the full built in RV look and function, but less room and flexibility inside. Jay and Maggie are great to work with and the wait, while its grown is shorter, while the quality/toughness is better.

Not as “fancy”/finished looking inside as an M, but his newer design for the cabover looks really sharp. And you can make it what you want inside. Or, if you want to pay Jay they’ll do things like insulate and maybe more. If you haven’t already, checkout the Ovrlnd Only thread and you can see a growing set of examples.

Edit: mine weighs 362 on a Double cab Tundra 78” bed I added extra height and I believe one more widow hatch than @PirateMcGee did. My payload is 1300.

 

[pith helmet]

yes. this is exactly what id want so i can build it out as needed. thanks for the info. i am that guy that asks the clerk where something is while im standing next to it.

 

[dstefan]

It’s the DIYer‘s wet dream! ?

 

[pith helmet]

It’s the DIYer‘s wet dream! ?

i see that! ill have to look at you guys build outs in that thread.

 

[pith helmet]

i want to keep it simple. we sleep on a 40" wide mattress in the jeep now and are happy with the bed, but we really need the standing/changing/showering/toilet room.

 

[dstefan]

Yeah, we went from a Tacoma and tent to the Tundra + Ovrlnd. Still using the fold out toilet and wag bags - no desire for black tanks, no matter how small. LOVE the stand up, move around stretching room and a place to get out of the elements. Migrated our sleeping pads over a layer of 1/4” closed cell foam — perfect. Same 10 year old ARB fridge we used in the Taco, just slide mounted. A simple bench seat across the cab bulkhead and a rack/counter, battery pack, four lights and a few other organizers and thats about it. Scepter cans for water. Back seat storage platform.

Or you can make much more lux! Only your payload will suffer

Have a pump-up Nemo shower, but haven’t used in a years worth of maybe six 3-5 night trips, but will be nice for longer. These shower wipes rock for short trips!!

 

[pith helmet]

I could certainly see a decent mattress as Wife has chronic pain issues. The folding toilet/wag bags we have, and the current shower set up would be all we'd need. I just want to be able to put on a jacket in the same place I sleep.
I would plan to insulate, however. Have any of you had any issues with thermal bridging of the structural aluminum with the foamboard insulation?

 

[dstefan]

I would plan to insulate, however. Have any of you had any issues with thermal bridging of the structural aluminum with the foamboard insulation?

You pretty much have to insulate with an aluminum camper shell for sure. You should also post this question over on the Ovrlnd Only thread. Everybody’s insulating just a little bit differently.

Personally, I chose to use a double foil faced quarter inch closed cell foam sheeting that went on top of the frames and left an air gap to the skin with a Coroplast inner (edit: whoops, I meant OUTER) layer (except for the roof which is just the foil/foam). Its been effective for thermal bridging and general insulation. To a large degree I did this because I’m more concerned about heat living in Phoenix and weight given 1300 pounds of payload. The camper temps stay 10 to 15° above the outside so far down into the high 30s with no heat going. Would definitely need to turn on the Wave 3 heater in the 20s or lower. We also have the thermal liner for the tent walls.

The challenge is that you cannot eliminate the thermal bridging from the the bed slideout area on the sides as well as places where your truck bed wraps over and the camper sills sit on rail. I have a Bedrug which helps the bed itself, but there’s always going to be enough thermal bridging to mean you can’t be fully insulated truly. I will say that it certainly makes a difference even with the remaining thermal bridging. And, it’s good enough that running a Wave 3 heater works well.

If you are really concerned about the most effective insulation, I suppose something like spraying Lizard Skin over the bed and the camper shell and then putting some protective layer or further insulation over that would give you the absolute best insulation coverage, but it’s a messy hassle.

 

[pith helmet]

Thanks. I am a ways from making a real decision on anything. Just checking it out.

I read a lot of the Ovrlnd thread and a couple of build threads this morning. I may delete this thread to keep from cluttering up the forum with a lot of the same discussion.

Thanks to all for pointing me in the right direction.