Gen 1 Tundra Heim Steering Questions

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
I am finally getting ready to put together my heim steering setup on my 01 Tundra and I am coming up dry on some information. Currently it is stock width on 33"s with plans for a 3.5 over and 35"s

Currently I have set aside:

BMS rack adapter
1/2" Grade 8 bolt (shanked)
3/4"-1/2" Heims (rack side)
3/4"-1" Threaded Tube Adapter (ruffstuff)
1.25" X 0.120 DOM tubing
7/8"-1" Threaded Tube Adapter (ruffstuff)
7/8"-3/4" Heim
3/4" Grade 8 Bolt (Shanked and double sheared)

The 7/8" threaded tube adapter looks sketchy and based on some numbers I ran it appears to be the limiting factor overall. I am using a safety factor of 4 and assuming a weld efficacy of 0.5 (basically a safety factor of 8)



Is there anything blatantly obvious I need to worry about? what is a reasonable load that the tire will see? I can calculate the limits for the components but I don't know if those limits are low or overkill?



I currently have limiting loads based on a factory of safety of 4 as:

Weld pullout limit (based on a 1/8" weld and 50% efficacy) 2120lb
Thread pullout limit: 6097lb
Clevis shear limit: 8835lb
Buckling tube limit: 30751lb

I can upsize the tube and add a bigger weld to the threaded adapters or add rosette welds to the 3/4" adapters but I have doubts about the 7/8" thin wall section doing anything. I thought about adding a sleeve over the adapter and welding it up again as another option.

Thanks,

Sean
 

toyick

I build Boat Anchors
First off, adding a Rosette always helps, how ever you are using the wrong material IMO...
Most of the kits offered actually just thread the tubing instead of adding a bung.
Running a 250 wall tubing with those RS bungs is recommended.
why run two different sizes of heims?
 

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
I agree with you on the rosette weld, I have them on my cantilever links already and plan on adding one regardless for the steering. The 7/8" heims on the outside allow more misalignment with a 3/4" bolt than the 3/4"-3/4" heim.

I would agree with you on the wall thickness as well but that is far from the limiting factor on the system. It might be the case on a solid axle steering setup but for a-arms the lengths are so short its less likely to bend.
If the concern is the ability to get a good weld on the adapters I can see that as a potential issue.

I thought about ordering a set of machined tie rods once I get the length correct but I am going to hold off until I get my front system built.

Sean
 

NODNARB

Observer
If you can weld decent you won’t have an issue. I’m assuming you’re worried about the thin inserted part of the rs bung? I’ve done many tierods with them and not had an issue, knock on wood


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toyick

I build Boat Anchors
why the 3/4 in bolt?...I dont get why your using a 7/8 heim though, i think a 3/4 with a 5/8 bolt double sheared would be more then enough.
If it has to do with the size of the hole after drilling the taper out, i would sleeve it....

Also Brandon has a point, RS wouldnt make those bungs if they were an issue. With a proper weld/gusset i don't think its any weaker then the material your using in the first place..

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Last edited:

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
I already drilled the ball joints out to 3/4". The list of stuff at the top is sitting assembled on my bench. I am just doing a sanity check on my tube size.

Brandon is correct, that is the spot I am concerned about. The 7/8-1 insert puts the threads outside the ID of the tube which puts the weld in bending.

A 3/4" heim is probably fine since that is what is used on the inner tie rod end with a 1/2" bolt.

I based the size of the heims of what total chaos and solo motorsports use.

https://www.solomotorsports.com/sho...toyota-1-lower-uniball-heim-steering-upgrade/

Sean
 

Kya

Adventurer
If it helps, I have a set of 06’ doublecab spindles sitting in my garage you can have to experiment on. You would just need to pay the shipping from Colorado.
 

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
I am actually going to update this post later this week. A few weeks ago I started the conversion/upgrade with the list above based on what I had read and was recommended to me. Turns out the 7/8-3/4 misalignment spacers have nowhere near enough throw and did not work. I ordered some 7/8-5/8 and 7/8-9/16 misalignment spacers to correct that which arrived this afternoon.

Here are the measurements:

7/8-3/4 42 degrees
7/8-5/8 51 degrees
7/8-9/16 47 degrees

weirdly enough the7/8-5/8" actually have more misalignment in them, I verified this with my digital level and calipers and the 5/8" spacers have a narrower shank.


That being said I decided stock width control arms are the limiting factor so I have been building a set of LT arms which I am hoping to finish this weekend. I figured that since I would be out of a truck in the meantime to make the best of it.

Sean
 
Last edited:

DMG

New member
Apologies for the thread necro. Where can I find the BMS adapter? Google hasn’t helped. How did this project turn out?
 

smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time
Apologies for the thread necro. Where can I find the BMS adapter? Google hasn’t helped. How did this project turn out?
Loooots of bump steer but that could have been an issue with the setup at the ball joints. If I get some free time in the next year I will end up taking another crack at it.

Sean

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smokeysevin

Re-redoing things the third time

Make sure you get the correct thread for the rack, I am not sure which size it is anymore.

Sean
 

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