Gen 2.5. spark plug tube cover keeps popping off causing rough idle and causing check engine light?

[snakeyjake]

Can anyone venture a guess as to why this is happening? Cylinder 1 misfire code. I can not get it to pop back on and seat properly.

 

[PacS14]

For the sake of clarification purposes take a picture and upload it here, then we might be able to help you. If the spark plug cable is popping out of the spark plug, then you probably didn't install it correctly, or the metal clip at the end is too wide open and not clamping onto the spark plug and along with other factors (vibration, etc) is coming undone and creating issues, but without the picture or better description of what is going on we can't help you much.

 

[snakeyjake]

Damn I was just at my warehouse replacing the pcv valve as Shovel suggested. It was really nasty. Thanks for the tip. I will take a couple of photos tomorrow and post. The cap still does not seat firmly like the others but when i took for a test drive it idled and ran much smoother. It did not pop the cap up from it's current position like before either. Judging by the condition of the PCV valve and mismatched looking plug wires I'm guessing engine maintenance wasn't a priority with the original owner. I called my mechanic for estimate on replacing valve cover gaskets and valve stem seals. "probably $700-800 for valve cover gaskets and I'm not sure I have the right tools for valve stem seals" Yikes. Is that at all reasonable? Made 2 other calls to other shops and left messages, crickets. Is this typical of older mitsubishi service? Are they really that difficult to work on? I'm posting photo of the rig after first wash from sitting 40 days in Auction yard in Sacramento then 5 days on truck to Boise. Also posting a copy of everything I know about the maintenance history which is pretty much nothing. Looks like radiator has been replaced at somepoint but that didn't show up on carfax. Thanks for the help fellas, I'm brand new to this and obviously bit off more than I can chew.

 

[snakeyjake]

Blocked PCV coupled with long dead spark plug tube gaskets and probably equally long dead valve guide seals? Or even the plug itself not actually being threaded in right allowing blowby at the plug?

Just internet guesses

PC valve was toast. Thanks.

 

[PacS14]

Honestly unless your engine is puffing a lot of blue smoke after sitting at idle at a stop light, or usus too much oil after fixing all obvious oil leaks (valve cover gasket, sparkplug tube seals, etc) I would not bother with the valve guide seals, and yes lifters and all that would probably have to be done at the same time. I would however tackle the timing belt, water.pump and all those components, $800 is a lot just for the valve cover gaskets and tune up, well it all depends where you are from.

Your Montero is super clean I wish mine was that clean looking.

 

[snakeyjake]

Right now I get a tiny bit of white smoke and vapor. Barely any smoke but I'm pretty sure it's there. I'm trying to put 1000 miles or so on it and monitor oil and coolant levels. Because the radiator looks new and the service history discusses "cooling system check" I'm concerned there's a bottle of Blue Devil in it's past. I wrote a note to the previous owner to see if he would be willing to tell me anything he might be willing to share. There are also a couple of exhaust leaks, one at the first flange from intake directly above the first 02 sensor then another the first flange bracketing one of the cats. Both heat and air seem to run fine but temperatures are cool and mild. I'm still trying to figure out why this last owner donated it or abandoned it.............unless theres something much worse I haven't been able to find. So far a new turn signal stock and window regulator. Today with the pcv valve change it ran really strong.

 

[snakeyjake]

Taking the upper intake off to replace the valve cover seals is easier than doing the same job on a 3.8L Mustang, people make a big deal about it but seriously it is not that hard if you just do careful methodical work.

Get the factory service manual from http://mitsubishilinks.com/ and keep a screen bigger than your phone nearby to reference, print out pages if you need to.

For the valve guide seals that's a bigger job but it's still not that terrible, I've done two of them now. As far as I can tell the easiest way to do it is you get/borrow/have an air compressor, buy this kit and also cough up the big dollars to buy the real Mitsubishi valve tool (yeah.. look it's less than the labor cost of having a shop "f" it up and you can re-sell it for as much as you paid for it so it's really just a big rental deposit) - and keep a some good lighting and a magnetic pick-up tool and some long tweezers handy... then just dive in. Do your valve guide seals, lifters, valve cover gaskets and spark plugs and wires all at the same time.

If you want to you can bundle that with doing your timing belt but there's not actually THAT much overlap between the front jobs and the top jobs.

Where would I order "real mitsubishi valve tool"?

 

[PacS14]

Right now I get a tiny bit of white smoke and vapor. Barely any smoke but I'm pretty sure it's there. I'm trying to put 1000 miles or so on it and monitor oil and coolant levels. Because the radiator looks new and the service history discusses "cooling system check" I'm concerned there's a bottle of Blue Devil in it's past. I wrote a note to the previous owner to see if he would be willing to tell me anything he might be willing to share. There are also a couple of exhaust leaks, one at the first flange from intake directly above the first 02 sensor then another the first flange bracketing one of the cats. Both heat and air seem to run fine but temperatures are cool and mild. I'm still trying to figure out why this last owner donated it or abandoned it.............unless theres something much worse I haven't been able to find. So far a new turn signal stock and window regulator. Today with the pcv valve change it ran really strong.

White smoke is steam, which has nothing to do with the valve stem seals, do a coolant flush, look it up here, or Google basically same procedure for all vehicles, and take it one step at the time. Download the factory service manual (FSM) (search for it too), and you will be on your way to figure out if you want to do the work yourself, the FSM provides step by step instructions and a list of all tools you will need.

 

[plh]

shop labor rates of $100 plus an hour, costs add up quickly

 

[snakeyjake]

I did do the engine block dye test on radiator fumes and it came back negative. perhaps there's a smaller leak I just coudn't pick up. The antifreeze is very clean looking.

 

[snakeyjake]

Here are some photos of the current issue I’m having. Cannot get spark plug wire seated properly. Keeps popping off when driven. Will not seat snug like the others and I can’t see well enough can barely fit my hand in there.

 

[snakeyjake]

Right and that is the plan. I can’t tear the whole thing apart right now because I have some crap in behind the car that will need to get out after spring break. What I’m wondering is in the meantime is it going to be possible for me to access that plug that just removing and unplugging vacuum hoses and connections in the immediate area? Would that allow me to get that Specific wire and plug removed to see what the problem is?

 

[snakeyjake]

OK you can file this one under the “it must be too good to be true category. “I literally was just responding to shovel when I got a call from guy who had an ad in Craigslist as an import auto repair specialist. I had called and left a message a couple days ago. Anyway he said he was a Mitsubishi tech for over 15 years and was certified. LOL. Also said he would do the stem seals, valve cover gaskets plugs and plug wires for 350 to 400 labor. Sold! Also said he had the Mitsubishi compression tool for valve stems.
Claims he can get the parts cheaper than I can. So while he’s in there what else should I be having him look for besides a compression test to start? Maybe I should have him do the timing belt and everything else While he’s in there? Perhaps I should just refer to shovels Jen 2.5 start guide on ADD. Suggestions appreciated.

 

[snakeyjake]

He said in his experience the tensioner fail’s more often than the belt. I was going to order the brass idler arm fittings too as you recommended. Steering a bit sloppy. In any event he said he’d go thru the entire rig. Somebody mentioned lifters?

 

[snakeyjake]

It’s not so much about the money as much as not spending stupid money. ( Like my mechanic wanting $800 for gaskets only). My goal is to have something pretty close to stock and reliable enough to take 20 miles off highway and not worried about reliability. I prefer not to spend a lot more than I ever get back out of it. I didn’t buy one of these because I’m cheap I bought one because I wanted one more than a 90s Land Cruiser. Posting some photos below . I think it’s a pretty clean rig to build upon.