GMT800 Suburban 2500... dissuade me (or not)

[noturavgM]

I just happened upon Expedition Portal this past weekend after doing some Google searching on early 2000s tow vehicles, and proceeded to spend the past four nights reading everyone's build threads! Hot damn folks have some nice rigs on here.

I am in the market for, what I have likely narrowed down to, an early 2000s Suburban 2500.

The truck will primarily be used for towing a ~2900# BMW track car, on a steel open car trailer, with associated wheels/tools/spares etc. In years past I have always driven the car to the track packed full of all my junk but finally decided trailering is the way to go, both from a comfort standpoint and a logistical nightmare standpoint should something happen to the car at the track. 90% of trailer pulling will be highway, and maybe 60% of non-trailer usage will be on highway. This truck will not see daily-driver duty.

The reading I've done seems to put the potential trailer weight at the top end of what a 1/2 ton Tahoe or Yukon can handle without being rough on it. Same goes for a 1500 Suburban that is just toting even more weight. Other threads I have read on here also talk about the 4L60 trans being slightly weaker, the 1500 Burb having weaker brakes, etc.

It seems my wisest option is a 2500, 6.0, with 3.73s.

Anything I'm missing? Is there a favorite year for the NBS 2500? Opinions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[98dango]

Sounds to me like you have the base now you need to find the one. I can't really poke any holes in your plan other than we need pictures of the track car.

 

[AA1PR]

not much I can offer

cant wait to see what you get

 

[noturavgM]

Sounds to me like you have the base now you need to find the one. I can't really poke any holes in your plan other than we need pictures of the track car.

Here is a nice one from Watkins Glen last fall.

 

[Nitromethane43]

If you are looking for a vehicle with less electronics the 2001 or 2002 model years would be preferred. The earlier years still had some minor issues which the manufacture was working out. And in 2003 they did a complete overhaul on the electronics and control systems throughout the vehicle, the new ones are not bad just more electrical gizmos to go through if troubleshooting.

Something to keep in mind is if you get one with autoride, by now most of the shocks have gone bad and they are an expensive replacement item, and will need a bypass for normal replacements, on some pulling the RTD fuse will work, others may need a module.

Also on automatic climate control models there seems to be parasitic power drain so they can not be parked for long periods of time without a charger.

 

[SlowJoe]

I have a 2001 with the 8.1 and I really like it. The big block is more difficult to find, but I held out for the 8.1 because after much reading the 8.1 sounded like it would be a more reliable hi-mileage motor than the 6.0. They were designed to last and have the records to show that they will. The average mileage is not much worse than the 6.0 and lots of people say it actually is not uncommon to get BETTER mileage than the 6.0 when towing since you aren't having to run the guts out of it to do the same job. If you want to tow anything at all, the difference between the 1500 and 2500 Suburban is night and day. I had to be patient for the right one to appear and had to travel a bit to get it, but that's not a big deal to me if it takes a bit more time to get the right vehicle that I will have for the indefinite future.

OVERVIEW
Introduced in the 2001 Chevrolet Silverado and Suburban and GMC Sierra and Yukon XL, the 8.1L is the legendary GM Big Block for a new millennium, with a longer expected useful life and horsepower and torque that surpass the competition. GM's leadership in big-block V8 technology dates to 1958, when the Vortec 8100's progenitor was launched with 348 cubic inches of displacement, in the full-size 1958 Chevrolets. The 348 was followed by several variants, including a 409, 366 and 427. In 1970, the 454-cubic-inch big-block was introduced. It was retooled in 1991 as the Vortec 7400--a truly powerful pickup engine that met stringent 1990s emission requirements. The Vortec 8100 bears little resemblance to those engines, beyond its bore centers and bore diameters, but it maintains a tradition of outstanding durability and class-leading power. Based on published figures in January 2002, the engine delivers more horsepower and torque than any gasoline engine in the heavy-duty pickup market.

After extensive analysis of competitors' engines, the 8.1L development team set a goal of 200,000 miles of useful life without major repairs--and then achieved it. The engine has been tested and validated to meet this 200,000-mile durability standard. Before it was ready for production, the 8.1L had to pass the ``Marine Dock'' test, in which it is run at full throttle for 300 consecutive hours, and a minimum of 1000 hours at full-throttle operation for truck applications. .

Durability is only one component of success in the heavy-duty pickup market. Another is outstanding power, and measured by both horsepower and torque, the Vortec 8100 beats its V10 competition.

 

[noturavgM]

I have a 2001 with the 8.1 and I really like it. The big block is more difficult to find, but I held out for the 8.1 because after much reading the 8.1 sounded like it would be a more reliable hi-mileage motor than the 6.0. They were designed to last and have the records to show that they will. The average mileage is not much worse than the 6.0 and lots of people say it actually is not uncommon to get BETTER mileage than the 6.0 when towing since you aren't having to run the guts out of it to do the same job. If you want to tow anything at all, the difference between the 1500 and 2500 Suburban is night and day. I had to be patient for the right one to appear and had to travel a bit to get it, but that's not a big deal to me if it takes a bit more time to get the right vehicle that I will have for the indefinite future

Interestingly enough, my Searchtempest results from surrounding Craigslist have MORE big blocks than 6.0s. Unfortunately most are from used car dealers. I strongly prefer buying from the owner. Dealers never have records or any knowledge of the history. Im not sure where the "enthusiast" Suburban forums are to find a well maintained truck!

Enthusiast level maintenance may not be as vital in a bombproof truck as the Bimmers I'm used to, dunno.

 

[SlowJoe]

Make the dealer provide you a car fax on it and you will get almost as much info as you would from an owner. Anyhow, it is nice to ask an owner questions, but I still only use what they tell me to bolster what evidence I see on the vehicle. I figure an owner is just as likely to be dishonest or ill-informed as some slimy used car salesman would be, so I take anything I am told with a grain of salt. If it were ever registered somewhere north of VA or so, I would not consider it due to rust issues. If it were garage kept and sparkly clean underneath I may think about it if I could put it on a lift and inspect it very well, but I certainly would not drive farther than across town to go look at it. Car fax would show in most cases any wrecks it has been in, inspections, registered owner changes and the state it was registered in, service work from a dealer etc. If it looks good, the price is right and the car fax checks out, I would jump on it. At the very least you could go drive a few of them to see what you think. With any Suburban of that vintage, the very first thing you better to to it is replace the plastic heater hose connectors at the firewall and the T's for the rear heat. They fail without warning and can ruin an engine in short order. I converted mine to brass fittings instead of installing the same GM plastic snap on garbage. Good luck with your search!

 

[noturavgM]

Make the dealer provide you a car fax on it and you will get almost as much info as you would from an owner. Anyhow, it is nice to ask an owner questions, but I still only use what they tell me to bolster what evidence I see on the vehicle. I figure an owner is just as likely to be dishonest or ill-informed as some slimy used car salesman would be, so I take anything I am told with a grain of salt. If it were ever registered somewhere north of VA or so, I would not consider it due to rust issues. If it were garage kept and sparkly clean underneath I may think about it if I could put it on a lift and inspect it very well, but I certainly would not drive farther than across town to go look at it. Car fax would show in most cases any wrecks it has been in, inspections, registered owner changes and the state it was registered in, service work from a dealer etc. If it looks good, the price is right and the car fax checks out, I would jump on it. At the very least you could go drive a few of them to see what you think. With any Suburban of that vintage, the very first thing you better to to it is replace the plastic heater hose connectors at the firewall and the T's for the rear heat. They fail without warning and can ruin an engine in short order. I converted mine to brass fittings instead of installing the same GM plastic snap on garbage. Good luck with your search!

Maybe I am used to a different community with respect to use of dealerships but I wouldn't trust a Carfax as far as I could throw it. Well, except accidents.

My cars haven't seen anything but my garage or race shops for specific things in years. Carfax would be a nice big goose egg

Most carfaxes I've seen show like 20 service records in 15 years. That's frightening!

At least with the owner the usually keep records and you can feel out if they are being shady as opposed to a car lot, where you Know they are being shady.

Search is on!

 

[Kaisen]

+1 for the 8.1L

I'm at 260K miles, all original drivetrain, no issues .... but the 6.0L is a good motor too

I prefer the multiplexed electrical of the 2003-2006, and the seats, and additional features.

Even as you develop preferences to one year or one drivetrain or some particular color/options, we all know it comes down to the one that's actually for sale and in the shape you want at the price that makes sense. So don't get too hung up on it. These are very cheap trucks now, particularly compared to similarly capable pickup trucks. Repairs are also cheap. Don't be afraid of mileage. Buy condition.

Good luck!

 

[k9lestat]

You ever ran at roebling down near Savannah ga.

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[noturavgM]

You ever ran at roebling down near Savannah ga.

Nope, only northeast for now. WGI, Lime Rock, NJMP, Summit, etc.

However owning a rig opens up possibilities. I've been contemplating a Road Atlanta + VIR road trip with some camping/hiking in the Smokeys in between events.

 

[k9lestat]

Well if you ever make this way shoot me a pm. I'm not a racer but I'm highly familiar with the area. They let us do pit training out there once.

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[Kmehr]

Maybe I am used to a different community with respect to use of dealerships but I wouldn't trust a Carfax as far as I could throw it. Well, except accidents.

My cars haven't seen anything but my garage or race shops for specific things in years. Carfax would be a nice big goose egg

Most carfaxes I've seen show like 20 service records in 15 years. That's frightening!

Man I 100% agree with you. My buddy's dad had an 08 mercedes E500 that my buddy put into a wall and did about $30k of damage. They claimed insurance for the accident. when they sold it, car fax came back totally clean!

On the suburban, I think it sounds like the perfect car. I had an 02 1500 with the 5.3. It's basically a rolling living room with tons of gear space. I would say that would be plenty to pull your trailer, I pulled a ski boat a few times and a couple of loaded up hauls and you barely knew it was there. Can't go wrong with the 6.0 or 8.1 either though. I doubt pulling a trailer mpgs is going to be significantly different between the three. I would think that unloaded is where you would see the biggest difference. I put about 100K on mine with one issue, the A/C compressor died. Not too bad of a fix, and it's the best damn A/C i've ever used in a car. It could freeze you in a hurry on a 100 degree day. Only reason I don't still have mine is that my sister totaled it.

 

[noturavgM]

I had an 02 1500 with the 5.3. It's basically a rolling living room with tons of gear space. I would say that would be plenty to pull your trailer, I pulled a ski boat a few times and a couple of loaded up hauls and you barely knew it was there. .

My towing experiences have been limited and rather diverse.

1. A GMT400 gen C/K with, what Wikipedia tells me, must have been a 6.5L turbo diesel. It was a rather "weak" example of the breed but handled a single car race trailer ok 4 hours to Watkins Glen.

2. An F350 dually 6spd with a 7.3 PS that hauled a two car 5th wheel race trailer that I could hardly tell was behind it. Awesome truck. We set the tune on "race" or whatever and took it around the track during one of the lunch time breaks. It boogied down the straights! Sounded the business to, had everyone looking.

3. My significant other's parent's 1500 GMT800 Suburban hauling a medium sized open-bow boat on the dead flatness of the Delmarva. Does perfectly fine there. Not sure about when I throw in some hills though.


I think the Suburban is a good choice since I can also modify the back of it to be some decent sleeping quarters.