Has anyone here ever replaced valve stem seals on a 1FZ-FE without pulling the head?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I have the tool to do it, but I'm not sure if there will be enough clearance to use it on the rear springs due to the cowl

I've read some old threads where a few Aussies claimed they got it done without removing the head, but they don't mention if that was with the engine still in the vehicle or not

Just want some confirmation (and preferably a write up) that it can be done on the vehicle without removing the head

 

[Broncers]

I've searched for this information before and couldn't come up with much. If you find it could you please post the link or maybe do a write up if you do it?

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I'll definitely post up a a thread when I start, but I'm hoping someone already has a guide that I can sift through as I go just to be safe

So far, according to the FSM, it looks pretty straight forward and the only part that has me a little worried is the cam removal/install sequence :smilies27

Apparently, it's easy to snap/crack the cams and head surface if the caps aren't removed/replaced in the correct order

I've done a few 2JZ cam swaps and they were not nearly as involved.

ToyoTools says there's enough clearance to use their ValveMaster tool (which is a bit smaller than the one I have)

 

[86tuning]

If you can take cams out of a 2jz without breaking them you can pull cams out of a 1fz

 

[theside00]

Cams aren't hard to remove in a 1FZ-FE. Just take your time and label or mark where everything goes. Most important thing is to install the M8 bolt in the cam gears to keep the tension set.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Going by the FSM, the 1FZ cam R&R is a lot more involved than the 2JZ

They don't warn you about snapping cams and cracking the head on the 2JZ, you just simply remove the cap bolts in the correct sequence uniformly and reinstall the same way (cam position doesn't really matter as they can be rotated individually)

However, on the 1FZ, the cams are geared together, there are numerous warnings about snapping cams and cracking heads, shaft thrust has the be checked numerous times during removal and installation and individual caps may or may not have to be retightened temporarily based on shaft thrust

I mean, it all appears to be straight forward, but I'd still rather see a write up before attempting it myself