Heater Control Valve

[naterry]

Gents,

I'm digging into plumbing a pre-heater and can't seem to locate a heater control valve on the van. Upon further research it looks like our vans may use a "blend air door" to bring in cool air in lieu of an actual bypass flow valve. This suggests that hot water is constantly circulating through both heater cores (rear air).

Is this correct?

If so, that would greatly simplify my install because I plan on tapping into the rear heater core circuit towards the back of the van.

 

[Mwilliamshs]

You got it. Ain't no bypass valve. I've successfully added the vacuum-actuated valves from late-model Rangers to other Fords. Works a treat at keeping A/C and "vent" air cooler.

 

[naterry]

You got it. Ain't no bypass valve. I've successfully added the vacuum-actuated valves from late-model Rangers to other Fords. Works a treat at keeping A/C and "vent" air cooler.

Excellent! Thanks for the verification Mwilliamshs.

 

[Arctic Travelller]

I can concur. I remembered reading about after market vacume operated valves one day when it was about 110 degs. The AC wasn't working worth a darn until I clamped a pair of vice grips (with some cardboard in the middle) on the hose to the heater core. I bet the vent discharge temp went down 15degs. Since then I bought a simple ball valve, but I've yet to install it. Let us know what you end up doing...

 

[Bbasso]

Would you mind elaborating on the ball valve?
As to size and where you bought it? Possibly a link?
Summer is right around the corner and in Florida getting the most from my A/C would be appreciated.

 

[Pinnacle Campers]

Yes, continuous flow, blend doors at both ends.

I'm mounting my hydronic under/behind the drivers footwell, and tap into the rubber hoses in the vicinity of the doghouse. I liked the idea of keeping the heater and its noise further away from the sleeping quarters.

 

[Arctic Travelller]

Would you mind elaborating on the ball valve? As to size and where you bought it? Possibly a link? .

The valve I bought was a standard hardware store 1/2in ball valve and two properly sized hose barbs, but it's kinda big and there is limited room under the hood. You could also buy a much smaller one like this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-97200

For the ultimate cure, the cold rush kit seems to be a good setup that works automatically with your heater / AC controlls. It's more expensive than a simple ball valve but you don't have to open the hood every time you want to use the heat or maximize the AC. For me, once in the spring for max AC and once in the fall for heat is not to often though. The kit is here:

http://www.dieselsite.com/colderacvent.aspx

Further discussion about this issue can be found here:

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...pass-to-fix-heated-dashboard-vents-13588.html

No matter how you do it, you should see colder AC and if your blend door is letting air past, you should see an even bigger difference. Best of luck...........

 

[Bbasso]

Thank you for the info

 

[Bikersmurf]

I've been running ball valves designed to use with pex water line for almost 10 years now. My FJ40 has a 42 year old heater core... so I've got shutoffs on both lines as a safety measure. It's running a SBC that tends to run on the warmer side, so I'm sure they'd work on our vans also.

 

[Mwilliamshs]

...For the ultimate cure, the cold rush kit seems to be a good setup that works automatically with your heater / AC controlls. It's more expensive than a simple ball valve but you don't have to open the hood every time you want to use the heat or maximize the AC. For me, once in the spring for max AC and once in the fall for heat is not to often though. The kit is here:

http://www.dieselsite.com/colderacvent.aspx

Further discussion about this issue can be found here:

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...pass-to-fix-heated-dashboard-vents-13588.html

No matter how you do it, you should see colder AC and if your blend door is letting air past, you should see an even bigger difference. Best of luck...........

That $60 "kit" is this $10.75 valve (rockauto price, before 5% discount) and about $10 of hose and clamps.

The valve is the stock replacement. I use "2002 Ford Ranger 2.3L" because I used to have one and know how it fits. I plumb mine like Ford did, no heat flow in MAX or OFF but you can plumb it half a dozen different ways. My next mod is to plumb the recirculating door (max setting) so I can recirc hot air in the winter without running the AC compressor.

 

[Arctic Travelller]

I see you chose a 4 port valve rather than a 2 port. When I simply clamped off the supply hose to the heater core, it worked just fine, but now I wonder if there is a reason to allow the coolant to recirculate instead. I assume the 4 port would be used to bypass rather than block the flow, is that correct?. Thanks..............

 

[Mwilliamshs]

I assume the 4 port would be used to bypass rather than block the flow, is that correct?. Thanks..............

Yes, that's correct. I did this because it's how Ford did it (the part I used is OE on dozens of Ford vehicles) and it allows constant circulation through the (aftermarket) coolant filter on the heater return line.

 

[Arctic Travelller]

Yes, that's correct. I did this because it's how Ford did it (the part I used is OE on dozens of Ford vehicles) and it allows constant circulation through the (aftermarket) coolant filter on the heater return line.

Ahhh, thanks. No coolant filter on my 5.4, so a two port valve will be an easy install, and much smaller than a regular ball valve. Good info.....................

 

[Mwilliamshs]

Ahhh, thanks. No coolant filter on my 5.4, so a two port valve will be an easy install, and much smaller than a regular ball valve. Good info.....................

My coolant filter is an aftermarket addition. Always a good idea with a heat exchanger to prolong its life.

Should be fine a on/off valve with a 5.4. The OE applications with this engine and a heater valve appear to use a 2 port. If no 2 ports were used OE I'd advise against it. Some engines NEED the 4 port style (actual bypass of the heater core vs dead-heading the flow) to prevent cooling system issues...just depends on the internal passage design.

 

[Kneeboarder1025]

This is great Info! I didn't realize this about the Ford Vans. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. Might be making this mod before the summer. I Remember my dad's '93 E150's A/C did a good job, (front and rear) but his was a black van, and man was it an oven in the summer time sitting in a parking lot. One reason I wanted a lighter color (even though I love a forest green van).