Help Plan use of Roof - Regular Body E350

[FarmerFrederico]

Hi Everyone,

Wondering if anyone can chime in on some of their experiences with use of space on the roof. I've got the regular body Ford E350 and want to put the following up top:

• Yakima 16 SkyBox
• MaxxFan
• 1 or 2 Renogy 100W Panels
• Gutter Mount Awning

An MG pop-top is on the wish list so this set-up will need to go up there economically to make a future transition to a pop-top. I'm hoping that any hole I drill in the roof will fit inside a space that will eventually get cut out of the 50"x110" hole cut in the roof. However, there may be a few holes in the section above the cab, but I'm banking on them getting covered by the future pop-top shell.

Here is a picture of my planning so far - the orange are the solar panels, black is the Yakima Skybox, and the small green box is the MaxxFan:

First off - can anyone chime in on experience installing the MaxxFan (fantastic) across the ribs? What type of gasket do I create for this discrepancy of height in the sheet metal?

The measurement from the rear door gutter all the way up to where the ribs of the roof end before the windshield is 128" - If I used two 100W panels they would have to be oriented the long way so they would butt almost entirely up to this spot - just 4-5" shy of the top of the windshield. I'm most definitely planning on using Yakima landing pads to mount Yakima Control Towers and Crossbars to predetermined locations for the Yakima Skybox...the solar panels are a different issue though. I could also mount those on two Yakima Control Towers and Crossbars, or I could mount them more directly to the roof (Yakima Tracks?) of the van for a lower profile.

Here are my thoughts on the two ways to mount the panels:

On Yakima Control Towers/Crossbars:
Advantages:

• Higher off the surface of the roof - I've read this improves efficiency of the panels by keeping them cooler
• Possibly fewer holes in the roof

Disadvantages:

• More expensive install
• Possibly more wind buffeting - chances to catch branches on trail.

Yakima tracks:
Advantages:

• Lower profile
• More direct mount
• Less expensive install

Disadvantages:

• Possibly less efficient - more heat - this van is parked outside
• Curvature of roof might make this low profile install more difficult.

Any thoughts or experiences shared on this are entirely welcome! Thanks!

 

[Corneilius]

To comment on just a fraction of your plan: Ive found gutter mount awnings on the E series (without some sort of large lift brackets) to be marginal for a few reasons. Most of which stem from not being able to pitch the awning enough for heavy rain/early morning sun /late afternoon sun. The gutter is too close in height to the top of the barn door at 90 degrees that you risk tearing a hole/ other inconveniences. It seems you've done a lot of homework on the components, maybe figure a mount off of the tracks/bars for the awning too..
Using the bars would give you a flat mount (tracks would pitch one panel too the passenger side and one panel driver?) and higher point to mount your awning. Bars would also yield fewer holes in the event you dont go with a poptop (if I understand correctly).

Edit: best thing ive found for making up for the ribs is a butyl tape in a thickness corresponding for the ribs, and if you want double protection a Self Leveling sealant or caulk from an RV store. Alternatively a ""non-sag sealant" is like self leveling but less runny for sloped applications

 

[Bbasso]

butyl tape will be your best friend.

 

[hyperboarder]

We just did a Vantech rack and ARB awning on our RB E250. The awning tucks in perfectly on the uprights below the bars, the barn doors barely brush the zipper and it's all quickly and relatively easily removable. Pic for reference:



Not sure how the height compares to Yakima offerings, but I think it's about right for most roof mounted things. I'll be replacing the RTT with a box and a basket soon. Possibly solar too, but likely portable, not permanent.

 

[FarmerFrederico]

To comment on just a fraction of your plan: Ive found gutter mount awnings on the E series (without some sort of large lift brackets) to be marginal for a few reasons. Most of which stem from not being able to pitch the awning enough for heavy rain/early morning sun /late afternoon sun. The gutter is too close in height to the top of the barn door at 90 degrees that you risk tearing a hole/ other inconveniences. It seems you've done a lot of homework on the components, maybe figure a mount off of the tracks/bars for the awning too..

I'm going to use some "Z-brackets" produced in small batches by 1der - from what I've read they are the best gutter mount bracket out there. I have to go that route in order to eventually get a pop-top and use an awning.

butyl tape will be your best friend.

The really thick and round butyl tape? Do you also use Dicor on top of that?

We just did a Vantech rack and ARB awning on our RB E250. The awning tucks in perfectly on the uprights below the bars, the barn doors barely brush the zipper and it's all quickly and relatively easily removable. Pic for reference: Not sure how the height compares to Yakima offerings, but I think it's about right for most roof mounted things. I'll be replacing the RTT with a box and a basket soon. Possibly solar too, but likely portable, not permanent.

I did consider that rack, but again, especially for the awning I need a gutter mount if I want a pop-top in the future. It will be cheapest for me to go with the Yakima stuff...I just need to make sure I won't run in to any problems with solar panel efficiency by having it mounted so close to the roof.

 

[Bbasso]

Basically the butyl tape will be the part that holds down the fan to the roof (plus screws) and the dicor lap sealant will seal off any possible leaks. That's how I installed my fantastic fan. It's been installed over a year now and still looks like the day I put it in and of course no leaks.

Yes I used the 5/16 inch round butyl tape. I used two layers, but work with it in the direct sun so it gets warm and flexible because it needs to be squashed so the fan sits as level as possible

 

[yelnam]

Greetings. I've had similar desires for two Renogy 100W panels, a roof vent, plus room on the rack for either a cargo box or stand up paddle boards. See attached. This is for a 4x4 Ford Transit with a Colorado Camper Van poptop, which will include Yakima rails, round bars, ... . Decided since I'll need access to the cargo box (or SUP's) while the awning is open (or even closed) and given the sliding door that a ladder will need to be on the driver's side, which then determined which side gets the open rack. The vent will have to be shifted from midline a bit to the passenger side, but that should be ok. Thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Bill



PS: the new Renogy Eclipse Mono 100W panels are smaller then the standard Renogy 100W panels, and work better in this configuration ... .

 

[FarmerFrederico]

Greetings. I've had similar desires for two Renogy 100W panels, a roof vent, plus room on the rack for either a cargo box or stand up paddle boards. See attached. This is for a 4x4 Ford Transit with a Colorado Camper Van poptop, which will include Yakima rails, round bars, ... . Decided since I'll need access to the cargo box (or SUP's) while the awning is open (or even closed) and given the sliding door that a ladder will need to be on the driver's side, which then determined which side gets the open rack. The vent will have to be shifted from midline a bit to the passenger side, but that should be ok. Thoughts appreciated. Cheers, Bill
PS: the new Renogy Eclipse Mono 100W panels are smaller then the standard Renogy 100W panels, and work better in this configuration ... .

Bill - we placed the cargo box (or SUP's) on the same side of the van for the same reasons. I think I'm looking at the same solar panels - I just rounded up for my measurements. I thought about only putting one 100W panel up top in order to save space, but I'm hoping 200W on top no matter sun or shade will take care of my needs because I don't really want to mess with putting a portable panel out unless absolutely necessary. My fan is going towards the back though because I want it to pull air from the the front and side windows across the sleeping area to keep things cooler.

 

[luthj]

There is some concern regarding shading of the solar panels. Even small amounts of shade will reduce the panels output by 75% or so. If 2 panels are in series shade on one will cut the output of both. This may not be a big deal since you mention this being a temporary setup. Adding tilt-able brackets of some kind can make shading less of an issue.

For best panel efficiency, you need to keep them cool. A 2" gap under the panels is ideal (more is better, but this is a vehicle). 1" is the lowest I would go.

Another option for solar panels is the Grape solar 160W panel below. At 58" wide it will fit nicely width wise on your roof, and will eliminate some of the shading issues. Being a single panel it can make mounting and wiring a bit easier. I am not sure how it would be placed with your possible future pop-top.

http://amzn.to/1STlj4o

 

[FarmerFrederico]

I've decided to go with the Yakima rails for the lower profile set up...this will help me save space on the roof and I've learned that even with an inch or two of air space underneath they will perform just fine.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

There is some concern regarding shading of the solar panels. Even small amounts of shade will reduce the panels output by 75% or so. If 2 panels are in series shade on one will cut the output of both.

Truth! The www.Roadslesstraveled.us has an outstanding site dedicated to RV and boat solar energy. They placed a paperback book on one corner of a 120 Watt panel and the amps went from 7 down to 1.4. People severely underestimate the effects of shade on panel placement.

 

[luthj]

There is some concern regarding shading of the solar panels. Even small amounts of shade will reduce the panels output by 75% or so. If 2 panels are in series shade on one will cut the output of both.

Truth! The www.Roadslesstraveled.us has an outstanding site dedicated to RV and boat solar energy. They placed a paperback book on one corner of a 120 Watt panel and the amps went from 7 down to 1.4. People severely underestimate the effects of shade on panel placement.

Yeah, I have a series parallel configuration using 160W panels (640W total). A broomstick sized shade will cut about 25-40% of a single panels output (depends on orientation). Since they are in series total loss for the string will be around 30%. Since the panels have a decent number of bypass diodes, the shading losses are reduced compared to many other panels. The shade from my roof vent is a serious consideration.

 

[FarmerFrederico]

Thanks for chiming in guys - I'm pretty sure I'll be wiring them parallel if I go with two panels so that will help if one is a bit shaded. I might just go with a single 150W panel instead. I am aware of the shading but if I park pointed south that should prevent most shading situations unless I'm searching for shade deliberately.